M101 A3 Utility trailer -->Camper Adventure trailer build

[mattjaro]

Hey all,

Back in December of 2014 I bought a M101 A3 dump trailer so that I can use it to transport my snow mobile and go wooding and use it for all sorts of other utility uses. After surfing this site I have been inspired to clean the trailer up, drop some weight, and build a removable camper top and add some extras for all needs i might for see in the future.

I have created a framing design in CAD see below and let me know what you think. I have some questions about how to go about building it, what materials should i use? steel? wood? I'm leaning more towards the wood side because my goal is to have it built in the next month and I think it will will be much cheaper and weight much less, but if its made out of wood will it be strong enough for off-roading in rough terrain?


I have a list of tasks to be done to this trailer before Burning Man the first week in September they go like this.

-Remove Lugget and pindle hitch. (completed)
-Install Max Coupler Hitch (Completed)
-install adjustable stand in tongue (Completed)
-remove all wiring and lights on the trailer(Completed)
-remove adjustable rear stand(Completed)
-weld on 2" Hitch receiver tube in back bumper
-remove old heavy axle(Completed)
-paint under carriage (Completed)
-install Dexter 3500# 3" diameter axle 64" Hub-face to hub-face, 43.25" spring perch center to center with 10 x 2.25 electric brake with parking brake to keep dump feature (Completed)
-paint outside of tub to match my silver 2014 Toyota Tacoma with black rhino lined trim and rhino line inside trailer bed.(completed)
-rewire and install all lights (Completed)
-wire up electric brake system on axle
-build camper top framing(Completed)
-install outside plywood(Completed)
-install all wiring for lights and outlets (Completed)
-install all 1.5" Foam Board insulation (Completed)
-install all indoor plywood work (Completed)
-install all windows (Completed)
-install all indoor and outdoor lights (Completed)
-build indoor seating which extends into a bed. (Completed)


I want to do a bunch of fixture attachments for propane, fuel and dining ware and food storage, awnings and outdoor sink and food prep areas, and a tongue box which will hold all the batteries and electronic components. but thats for later planning, all i need now is to clean up and lighten the trailer and build the camper.

I will post pictures along the way and i hope that i can get any sort of feed back from all of you on how i can make this thing into what i want it to be.

thanks all,

hope to hear your comments and suggestions.

 

[RagnarD]

Looking forward to pics. I would go heavier than a 3500 lb axle. My guess is your dry weight will be pushing 2K lbs when done. I would actually go back in with a 7K axle. The distance between the hub face and spring perch is longer than typically desired. A heavier axle will help and will also have larger bearings.

I would go all steel but could try a steel frame and wood skin. If it holds up, good. If not, easy to skin with sheet metal.

Also, I would start looking for another 101 now. You will grow tired of swapping the topper and gear. You will also be able to build it lighter if it will stay in one place.

 

[hansrober]

I did something similar in aluminum. It still uses the surge brakes and military axle. They have worked fine for me and its had a lot of on and off road miles put behind it. They do make great trailers. It is a lot easier to find another open trailer to do yard duty with in my experience. This one quickly became an exclusive motorcycle camper.

 

[mattjaro]

here are the pics of the tongue which was done late last week. it has just a receiver hitch with a pin hole so i can remove and replace with any kind of hitch. currently i have the Max Coupler which is a great hitch for off roading as it allows for 3 axis rotation.




its just bolted back to the original 4 bolts on each side but the top plate will be welded and an adjustable stand will be welded behind this top plate to the whole assembly. even with just the 4 bolts it was strong enough to hold a full cord of wood in the bed last Friday when i went to pick it all up.

 

[mattjaro]

Looking forward to pics. I would go heavier than a 3500 lb axle. My guess is your dry weight will be pushing 2K lbs when done. I would actually go back in with a 7K axle. The distance between the hub face and spring perch is longer than typically desired. A heavier axle will help and will also have larger bearings.

I would go all steel but could try a steel frame and wood skin. If it holds up, good. If not, easy to skin with sheet metal.

Also, I would start looking for another 101 now. You will grow tired of swapping the topper and gear. You will also be able to build it lighter if it will stay in one place.

the axle i bought was a 3" axel so i would expect it to be more along the lines of a 5K axle. maybe someone could help clarify how that would work.

 

[mattjaro]

I got some time this weekend and did some work on the trailer, I got the old Axle off and painted the beast. I only got the outside painting done, planning on painting the bed with rustoleum truck bed paint some time this week. and then attaching the new axle back on sometime before the end of the week. just curious, i have talked to a few friends and they mention that non of their trailers have struts only leaf springs, is there a reason i should keep the strut or should i just remove the strut and if i need it later i can just fit one on. lets hear some feed back.

 

[Doc2012]

Know what I like about those axles?

The center section.

I love how it is risen up. Just makes me less worried about snagging on something.

You've got a good idea going.

I'm doing something similar with a M116A2 and a M996 Ambulance body.

 

[RagnarD]

Keep the shocks if you can. Makes for a much better ride. I like you improvised jack stands.

 

[RagnarD]

Know what I like about those axles?

The center section.

I love how it is risen up. Just makes me less worried about snagging on something.

I like this as well. Not from a practical point because the tow vehicle has less clearance, but it looks neat especially with shocks. I really wish it was possible to swap hub on these axles/add electric brakes.

 

[mattjaro]

I'm replacing it with a new dexter straight axle. There are a few reasons for that. The wheels and tires ill be using are the same as the ones on my truck so if my truck can get over something without snagging then the trailer should have no problem. the other reason is that the existing axle weighs over 200lbs (my estimate, if I'm wrong please correct me I would really love to know the true weight) and the dexter axle weighs about 100lbs. another reason is that the military axle has an 8 lug bolt pattern similar to a Chevy 1500, i want the trailer to have the same wheels as my Tacoma truck so that i only have to carry one spare rather then a spare for my truck and a different spare for the trailer. and last i want to mount a water storage tank under the trailer bed centered above the axle, there would be limited space if i had the drop axle so i went with the straight axle.

once again thoughts...

 

[mattjaro]

Keep the shocks if you can. Makes for a much better ride. I like you improvised jack stands.

haha yea i borrowed the jack stands from work and they needed to be back before monday morning so some redneck engineering had to be applied...

 

[coop74]

I'm replacing it with a new dexter straight axle. There are a few reasons for that. The wheels and tires ill be using are the same as the ones on my truck so if my truck can get over something without snagging then the trailer should have no problem. the other reason is that the existing axle weighs over 200lbs (my estimate, if I'm wrong please correct me I would really love to know the true weight) and the dexter axle weighs about 100lbs. another reason is that the military axle has an 8 lug bolt pattern similar to a Chevy 1500, i want the trailer to have the same wheels as my Tacoma truck so that i only have to carry one spare rather then a spare for my truck and a different spare for the trailer. and last i want to mount a water storage tank under the trailer bed centered above the axle, there would be limited space if i had the drop axle so i went with the straight axle.

once again thoughts...

Take your current hub to a good machine shop and have it changed to your current lug pattern... the Military axle is stout and worth keeping. IMHO

Big Coop

 

[shack]

looks like a great start!

 

[mattjaro]

sorry all, i will be replacing the axle. but good news for you!!! if you want to buy it i will be selling it.

anyways i ordered new U bolts off amazon the other day and i should be able to get the trailer rolling by mid next week. i already have the dexter axle and some Tacoma wheels and Destination MT tires in 265/75/16 to match the ones on my truck ready to be mounted. i have LED lights and wiring on order and that will go on next week as well. that's good news because i hope to get it registered as a custom build the following few weeks. i'm only about a week behind schedule for getting this thing built. i painted the bed with the rustoleum truck bed liner paint, ill be putting one more coat on it today i hope this stuff holds up... if not then ill take it somewhere to have them put on a bullet proof liner on.

everything is coming along pretty well.

 

[Douglas]

I have a list of tasks to be done to this trailer before Burning Man the first week in September they go like this.

If you have anything that needs fixing during Burning Man, trailer or otherwise, my camp is BRC Welding & Repair. We will be at 3:15 & B. I'll be on playa starting Fri, 8/28.

Hell, if you don't have anything that needs fixing, still stop by for a drink. Ask for Frostbite.