Sabre
Overlanding Nurse
I have no idea what size it is...it's not very big. The "little indexing nubs?" Do you mean must it be a castle nut? Yes, of course, for the cotter pin to provide security.
Replacing Front Wheel Bearings on Gen III
- Thread starter Sabre
- Start date
I have no idea what size it is...it's not very big. The "little indexing nubs?" Do you mean must it be a castle nut? Yes, of course, for the cotter pin to provide security.
Yeah, no tappy-tap then BINGO here, either. Wailed on it for 5 minutes and nothing. Brought the knuckle to my shop guy and he damn near took out a 20-ton press. When things did let go, he almost killed somebody with flying parts.
Sabre
Overlanding Nurse
Yeah, it's a one minute job to pry off that dust cap! :agree:
122andy
Observer
Just did my left front. Much thanks for this writeup. I just wanted to chime in regarding getting the bearing out of the spindle. I couldnt budge it myself. Took it to the local mechanic, 30 ton press didnt budge it. Had to cut it out. Just be prepared for the delay of not being able to get it out if youre trying to do it on a time crunch.
Offroadmuch
Explorer
This is a great thread with a lot of good info.
Is it a real pain just to do the wheel bearings? It would be a lot cheaper. I would need a bearing pusher/puller, seating tool?
Should I wait for signs of damage etc. if I have done a water crossing or should I just replace them? I have heard that you should just put new wheel bearings in after a deep water crossing.
Mine still seem 100% ok.
Thanks
Is it a real pain just to do the wheel bearings? It would be a lot cheaper. I would need a bearing pusher/puller, seating tool?
Should I wait for signs of damage etc. if I have done a water crossing or should I just replace them? I have heard that you should just put new wheel bearings in after a deep water crossing.
Mine still seem 100% ok.
Thanks
Sabre
Overlanding Nurse
The bearings come as described in this thread and they're really not expensive at all. I can't speculate what it might take to actually get new bearings into the hub, but I suspect that it would cost you more in shop labor than it would be worth.
Water crossings in and of themselves won't hurt your bearings. What wears them out is age and time. Anyone advocating replacing bearings after a few water crossings is an utter moron. There's no need to replace them preemptively; when one starts to go you will feel and hear it. Of course, if you have over 100,000 miles on the rig and want to replace them just to stay ahead of things, you see that it's really not a difficult project.
plh
Explorer
yep, completely different
Greetings,
Was wondering if anyone could provide info on the post regarding removing the front drivers-side (LH) CV shaft? I myself am planning to replace and have also wondered how to access the circlip on the inboard spline...?
Given the lack of detail in the FSM, and some other research, it appears that this may not be what I would consider a typical circlip, and one should be able to just pull on the shaft and it pops out. Please, someone, correct me if I'm wrong.
Much thanks!
Was wondering if anyone could provide info on the post regarding removing the front drivers-side (LH) CV shaft? I myself am planning to replace and have also wondered how to access the circlip on the inboard spline...?
Given the lack of detail in the FSM, and some other research, it appears that this may not be what I would consider a typical circlip, and one should be able to just pull on the shaft and it pops out. Please, someone, correct me if I'm wrong.
Much thanks!
Monty03
New member
Looks like a solid write up. I have 176k miles on the old Monty and it seems like the left side has just gone. Wooo wooo woo noise coming from the wheel. I’ll check wheel temp though like mentioned after a drive. I have jacks and stands, decent wrench set, and socket set. Good hammer and lots of beer. Anything else I should have on hand like break loose or WD40. Special clips or anything. I know you mentioned about the bolt that you screw into the hub to pop the caliper free. I’m guessing that will be handy. If anyone can shine some light on that.
Also what kind of grease would you rec for lubing up it all when done. Thanks so much!
Also what kind of grease would you rec for lubing up it all when done. Thanks so much!
Monty03
New member
Well about 2 years later the left side is pretty much ready to be replaced. I ordered two from Rock auto because I’m replacing the whole front suspension and I just through well I would do them both at the same time. The passenger side looks fresh after about 40k miles since replaced but the driver is another story. I can not budge the axel nut loose. I don’t really have a huge breaker bar but I just feel that it’s frickin on there good. I’m going to try to find a larger breaker bar and maybe a torch to apply some heat to the nut. My theory is that while driving it heats up and then cools so it’s almost seized on there.
I’m only working with about a 20” bar so I’m gonna get some more leverage. All my bushings are pretty much toast too so I got new control arms up and lower inner and outer tie rods and new shocks ready to install. This nut though is my main issue.Would some heat and some hammering hopefully solve this.
I’m only working with about a 20” bar so I’m gonna get some more leverage. All my bushings are pretty much toast too so I got new control arms up and lower inner and outer tie rods and new shocks ready to install. This nut though is my main issue.Would some heat and some hammering hopefully solve this.
