jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
PMD, lift pump, or OPS are the 3 cheaper things to check, may want to do them anyway if they are pretty old.
GM 6.5 turbo diesel problems..
- Thread starter chilliwak
- Start date
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
It's not that easy.
PlethoraOfGuns
Adventurer
Decisions, decisions. If you don't need the truck on the road ASAP, throw it in corner of the yard and get back to it later. Take time to think about the different roads to take. One thing I've from experience is that the cheap/easy road usually ends up costing more in the long run and biting you in the ******** later.
To get the pump off, you need to disconnect all the electrical plugs that's in the way, remove intake manifold, loosen all the fuel lines from rear of pump(mark them so you can put them back on in the right order later), remove oil fill elbow pipe thing on front of timing cover, rotate crank to get to the three bolts on the timing gear, then remove three mounting bolts in the valley holding the pump to the engine. I believe all you need in basic mechanics tools, nothing fancy. Only advantage I can see with running a manual pump is simplicity and not having to worry about that stupid PMD thing. I'm sure with any 6.5L you can run either manual or electronic fuel delivery system. To each his own...
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
There is more to it than just swapping pumps from what I can recall, if he searches over on dieselplace it will pull up everything he needs to know on the 6.5, I haven't read or posted much over there since I upgraded everything on my 95 a few years ago.
Woofwagon
Adventurer
Ok, so it is more complicated than I remember. I usually removed the IP and injector lines as one unit, disconnecting the injector lines from the injectors and capping the injectors to keep trash from getting in there. I did a similar pump install with an International 6.9 in my old Ford 4x4.
UrbanCummin
Diesel Mechanic
Its not an overly hard job to do but it does take some time and some skill. The passenger side fuel lines can be a pain because of the way to turbo is mounted and some of the lines on the injection pump are a tight fit to get too, I have a few modified wrenches to get to these lines off easier. Its a hard call as to whether or not to pay someone to install it or do try it yourself. I have know people that have done repairs similar to this by themselves with good results and I've had a lot of trucks towed in after something went wrong and the owner wasn't sure what to do at that point in time.
The only advantage of going to a mechanical pump is the reliability factor, no performance gains. A pump shop can turn up the fuel on a mechanical pump if so desired but lets face it, its a 6.5, if your after hp you picked the wrong engine lol
The only advantage of going to a mechanical pump is the reliability factor, no performance gains. A pump shop can turn up the fuel on a mechanical pump if so desired but lets face it, its a 6.5, if your after hp you picked the wrong engine lol
chilliwak
Expedition Leader
Yes no power in the 6.5. But when it runs good it moves this Yukon well...:ylsmoke:
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Funny thing is that I have never seen a single 6.5 pulled off the side of the road with their hood open while driving over our numerous high canyon passes, see plenty of the other diesels though and just wave as I drive past. I have towed tandem/double trailers behind our lowly 6.5 with our Jeep on a flatbed and the pop up hooked to the back of that and it towed them happily, they were not designed to tow the heavy loads like our newer diesels but got good mpg and are very reliable once you relocate the PMD and replace the exhaust.
chilliwak
Expedition Leader
Good call mate...:smiley_drive:
UrbanCummin
Diesel Mechanic
Hmmm, I guess the few hundred 6.5's I've worked on (many of which got towed in) must have just been having a bad day lol. I never insulted the 6.5's guys so no need to get defensive, I've seen every kind of engine and truck broke down and realize better then most that everything and anything can **** the bed when you least expect it, some are just a but more prone to it (ie 6.0L ford).
1stDeuce
Explorer
I don't recall pulling the intake, but I do remember having to slightly tweak some of the injector lines to get them off, and they don't like that... Probably easier if you pull the lines and pump together. I did mine in a day. It wasn't fun. But it wasn't worth thousands of dollars to pay someone else to do it.
I'd stick with exactly what you have. My PMD never gave me an issue, but my truck never had the plastic over over the engine either, which probably helped... (Remove that thing if it's still there and it'll let a little more heat out...)
Chris
I'd stick with exactly what you have. My PMD never gave me an issue, but my truck never had the plastic over over the engine either, which probably helped... (Remove that thing if it's still there and it'll let a little more heat out...)
Chris
Rot Box
Explorer
I agree if it will come off as one unit that would be a lot less headache. I've never changed one on a 6.2/6.5 but if it's anything like the Ford/IDI's (they're very similar I know that much) I think most any back yard mechanic could change a pump then have it professionally timed without too much heartache.
I agree stick with what you have. The DB2 mechanical pump is pretty much the same pump my Ford has and if you want my $.02 simplicity is the only thing it has going for it... kind of a turd imho
Coming a little late to this party but badger diesel is about the cheapest and best place to get a rebuilt pump.... they also do injectors for a great price
http://www.badgerdiesel.com/store/shop.aspx
These are the wrenches that are not needed but make it easier.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...or wrenches&qid=1444239135&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
it is just 3 bolts that hold the injection pump to the back side of the timing cover but it isn't as easy as that to remove and replace one.... intake manifold needs to come off for one and I believe that the front of the timing cover also needs to come off, which means the water pump needs to come of as well. Not sure on that last part though.
it's not terribly hard just time consuming and it does need to be timed with software after. Another option would be to go mechanical pump, but then you loose the cool tuning options.
I'd just replace the pump.... if the motor dies later due to miles then I'd go P400 if I had the money or Optimizer for a cheaper option.
While the intake manifold is off I'd change the OPS as well... it can be a beast to get to with the manifold on. AC delco only on that one. Put the OPS extension on it from Leroy as well as it will make changing it in the future a breeze.
http://leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-oil-pressure-sensor-ops-extension-hose/
http://www.badgerdiesel.com/store/shop.aspx
These are the wrenches that are not needed but make it easier.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...or wrenches&qid=1444239135&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
it is just 3 bolts that hold the injection pump to the back side of the timing cover but it isn't as easy as that to remove and replace one.... intake manifold needs to come off for one and I believe that the front of the timing cover also needs to come off, which means the water pump needs to come of as well. Not sure on that last part though.
it's not terribly hard just time consuming and it does need to be timed with software after. Another option would be to go mechanical pump, but then you loose the cool tuning options.
I'd just replace the pump.... if the motor dies later due to miles then I'd go P400 if I had the money or Optimizer for a cheaper option.
While the intake manifold is off I'd change the OPS as well... it can be a beast to get to with the manifold on. AC delco only on that one. Put the OPS extension on it from Leroy as well as it will make changing it in the future a breeze.
http://leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-oil-pressure-sensor-ops-extension-hose/
late to the chat as well... but I recently retired a 3/4 ton Sub' w/ similar engine. Before you go and dive into the injection pump set up an account over at The Diesel Place and go through their very exhaustive step by step troubleshooting procedure and report your findings. Folks on there will most likely pinpoint your problem. I know you mentioned the PMD was new but that doesn't mean it's functional. You may wish to try a known working PMD (their easy to swap if you have them remotely mounted as you do). The lift pumps as others have mentioned can be a source of problems and there's an easy procedure to test this Also, if the system it detects air you'll get a lot of problems, so any leak in the fuel system can introduce air bubbles. Most shops that aren't true experts at the 6.5 will immediately state the injection pump is bad but more often than not it is perfectly fine and there are other (less costly) issues that can remedy your situation. I gave up on mine as I was using it as a daily driver and I couldn't afford the rental car any longer while I worked on it. I sadly had to throw in the towel and donate it. That Sub' was still in excellent shape (so sad).
very true.... most shops don't know what they are doing with these things.
Even if the IP is bad they won't check to see if the lift pump or OPS is bad and caused it to go bad. They charge you a ridiculous amount to put a new one in and then it to will go bad shortly if those 2 items aren't working correctly.
www.dieselplace.com
www.dieselpage.com
www.thetruckstop.us
are all great pages for info on the 6.5
Even if the IP is bad they won't check to see if the lift pump or OPS is bad and caused it to go bad. They charge you a ridiculous amount to put a new one in and then it to will go bad shortly if those 2 items aren't working correctly.
www.dieselplace.com
www.dieselpage.com
www.thetruckstop.us
are all great pages for info on the 6.5