Ivan
Lost in Space
9.5 IFS and 14 bolt? Get the coil over conversion kit, slap on some 35s, and call it a day imho.
I may be a little biased though.
1500hd/2500hd build threads?
- Thread starter Tallan87
- Start date
9.5 IFS and 14 bolt? Get the coil over conversion kit, slap on some 35s, and call it a day imho.
I may be a little biased though.
Smileyshaun
Observer
not terrible at under a grand bolt on ready to go
where do you see under a grand?
keep in mind I have to use 2500hd front components.
Smileyshaun
Observer
look up atomic fabrication , He doesn’t list the 2500 on his site but from what I’ve seen you can just use his top bracket and coil overs on a 2500 . He seems to have fantastic customer service so you probably could just email him and ask.
1stDeuce
Explorer
You can check my build thread too. Pretty mild, but it gets me places, pulls trailers, handles gravel roads and highway just fine.
The main problem with SAS conversions is that the GM frame wasn't designed with clearance for a solid axle, so you have to lift about 4" to maintain even minimal compression travel. (I think we cover this in Jack's build therad, referenced above.) I don't really want a 4" lifted truck, so I don't think I'll ever go that route, but IF I did, it sure seems like a Dodge 2500 or 3500 axle would be the hot ticket, rather than the Ffffford axle... That way the bolt pattern matches without adapters. Available factory locker if you can find an axle from a Power Wagon. Downside is that you have to open up the ID of the wheels if you want to stick with GM wheels, but there are some good Dodge wheels that would fit front and rear...
Also, the H2 wheels do have one drawback: They are wider, but all of the width is added to the outside of the wheel. That means they stick out about 1.5" farther than the stock wheels IIRC, and they swing a bigger arc when you turn, so they require even more fender trimming for a given tire size. The '07-10 17" aluminum wheels are the hot ticket IMO. You can run a 255/80R17 with minimal rubbing. Jack was running 285/75R17's for a while, about 34" tall IIRC. I thought about it, but a re-gear is out of the question, and I'm happy on the 255's.
For lift, crank the bars about 1", add a 1" block to the back or an extra leaf and you've got a pretty solid suspension. I would advise against more than about 1" or 1.5" of lift for the stock suspension, but no keys are required to get that lift. Cranking the bars is all the keys do, so the claims about better ride with keys than cranking the bars is hooey. If you're going to crank it 3", then you're going to eat idlers, tie rod ends, etc, and you MUST use the shock extension brackets that will come with the keys or you'll have no droop travel and the ride will be terrible.
The big difference between the Ram and the GM truck is frame clearance under the middle of the truck. I'm just gonna guess that you'd have to lift the GM truck 4-6" to get breakover in the same ballpark as a stock Powerwagon...
Finally, the front powerwagon locker should fit the 9.5" rear axle in your truck. It will not fit the 9.25" front IFS of the GM Truck, as far as I know... Hmm. Or will it?? They may all take the same carrier, as I know a 9.5" Trutrac will fit the 9.25" front IFS... FWIW, I've never needed the front locker, but I know Jack put one in his truck and liked it. The G80 does not like to lock if you are in low range in my experience.
The main problem with SAS conversions is that the GM frame wasn't designed with clearance for a solid axle, so you have to lift about 4" to maintain even minimal compression travel. (I think we cover this in Jack's build therad, referenced above.) I don't really want a 4" lifted truck, so I don't think I'll ever go that route, but IF I did, it sure seems like a Dodge 2500 or 3500 axle would be the hot ticket, rather than the Ffffford axle... That way the bolt pattern matches without adapters. Available factory locker if you can find an axle from a Power Wagon. Downside is that you have to open up the ID of the wheels if you want to stick with GM wheels, but there are some good Dodge wheels that would fit front and rear...
Also, the H2 wheels do have one drawback: They are wider, but all of the width is added to the outside of the wheel. That means they stick out about 1.5" farther than the stock wheels IIRC, and they swing a bigger arc when you turn, so they require even more fender trimming for a given tire size. The '07-10 17" aluminum wheels are the hot ticket IMO. You can run a 255/80R17 with minimal rubbing. Jack was running 285/75R17's for a while, about 34" tall IIRC. I thought about it, but a re-gear is out of the question, and I'm happy on the 255's.
For lift, crank the bars about 1", add a 1" block to the back or an extra leaf and you've got a pretty solid suspension. I would advise against more than about 1" or 1.5" of lift for the stock suspension, but no keys are required to get that lift. Cranking the bars is all the keys do, so the claims about better ride with keys than cranking the bars is hooey. If you're going to crank it 3", then you're going to eat idlers, tie rod ends, etc, and you MUST use the shock extension brackets that will come with the keys or you'll have no droop travel and the ride will be terrible.
The big difference between the Ram and the GM truck is frame clearance under the middle of the truck. I'm just gonna guess that you'd have to lift the GM truck 4-6" to get breakover in the same ballpark as a stock Powerwagon...
Finally, the front powerwagon locker should fit the 9.5" rear axle in your truck. It will not fit the 9.25" front IFS of the GM Truck, as far as I know... Hmm. Or will it?? They may all take the same carrier, as I know a 9.5" Trutrac will fit the 9.25" front IFS... FWIW, I've never needed the front locker, but I know Jack put one in his truck and liked it. The G80 does not like to lock if you are in low range in my experience.
I have the exact same truck and have been using it for a few years now. I think the first thing to decide is what you ultimately want the truck to be. That'll really dictate SAS vs IFS. I didn't feel the need to change the front end because I don't do any real rock crawling. And I like the comfort the IFS offers (damn I'm getting old). I live in Ouray, Co and can do all the trails around here with some mildly cranked torsion bars and 265/75/16 (not even 33's, but 33's will fit) tires. The G80 works great if you know how to use it. First thing is to do is to activate it in 2wd and make sure it works. With miles comes wear, so the clutch plates might be worn out making it an open diff. Luckily mine still works well at 175k miles. I'm always surprised at the places the truck will go.
Ivan
Lost in Space
And Torsion Bars have been used for Baja as well.
But you have to consider cost. Each torsion bar for mine is $250-ish, assuming they're in stock to begin with, shocks will be approx $200 (bilsteins) each. That's already close to $900, and I'm stuck with only one spring rate.
Or,
I can spend approximately the same on a decent set of coilovers with infinate adjustments.
Once you run the numbers, it's less "buy once, cry once", and more "it's expensive to be cheap".
Smileyshaun
Observer
from what I read the lower doesn’t need a mount on the 2500 , but I could be wrong .
60beforetruck
Active member
I vote IFS, flat bed, and 35" tire. Money saved on SAS can get you air lockers and a winch. Just remember when you driving that you are not in King of the Hammers.
My next truck will stay IFS.
My next truck will stay IFS.