Captain Texas Anvil JKU build

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Did your Trailgater pull pins loosen up over time? Mine are really tight. I’m sure that’s what keeps it from rattling, but it’s definitely tougher than I thought to open.

Yea they are pretty tight still on mine. Maybe some light WD40 would help? Mine have always been a pain to open.
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Got to work installing the IPF rear light. Tightening the bolt on the mast to secure the light was a bit tricky since the gas caddy limits movement of my wrench.

Running the wire to the light from the exhauster was a PITA. Had to take the spare off and really be smart with trying to thread the wire. Seriously was not fun but was able to get it through the tailgate.

I have a lot of work to do today so could only get about an hour of work in. Ran the wiring past the sub, still need to get it past the B-pillar and wire everything up.

Also does anyone have a good spot for this ground wire? Doesn't seem like I have enough length to get it in the cab.

Thinking about doing a sub delete. I unplugged my sub months ago to see if I could tell a difference. I honestly forgot I unplugged it and haven't plugged it back in. Would rather have the extra bit of room it takes up.
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DallasJKU

Adventurer
Yea they are pretty tight still on mine. Maybe some light WD40 would help? Mine have always been a pain to open.

Put some silicone spray on them and it made a big difference. Never going to be easy, but now it’s much easier. I get a little rattle occasionally from the rings so I’m going to put some felt on outside of table and then add some paracord lanyards to the rings. Definitely a well made table with lots of usefulness even if it’s not going to be used often.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
Pullingthe factory sub was one of my earliest mods. Ran one without for several years ... Then I put a self-powered Kicker sub under the driver seat - wired it off the front speakers in the driver footwell. I also installed an active comp/equalizer device to undo some of the stupid factory EQ settings.

Kicker 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JHK0BbCWXAKH0

I got a refurbished unit from eBay at 75$ like 5 years or so...
 

Lee_N

Member
On your body bolt problem, how about putting a helicoil in the nut? That would prevent someone from cutting a hole in the floor and welding in a new nut.
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Alright so I have been emailing Tribe 4x4 here in Fort Worth to see about getting some SteerSmarts linkage done to the Jeep. They are going to order a tie rod and drag link on Monday and I'll get fit in whenever I can. We are also going to see if we can get the stripped body bolt nut fixed.
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Dropped off the Jeep at Tribe today. Got to take a quick look at the SteerSmarts linkage and sweet jesus they are massive! No doubt these things are going to be though.

They are also going to finish the rear IPF light install (I've gotten really busy) and also taking a crack at fixing the body bolt issue.

Should be done in a few days.
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Got the Jeep back today and I have to say if you are in the DFW area and you need some work done to your 4x4 (Seriously, any 4x4, they are putting a Defender 110 on a Jeep TJ chassis), then head over to Tribe 4x4. They are great!

Got to drive back and the Steer Smarts linkage is great! I used to have a shimmy in the steering wheel from 45 to 55-60 mph and the steering just didn't feel very confidence inspiring in general before. The new linkages in the front fix those problems. Man these things are stout! Even the steering stabilizer mount for the tie rod looks like you could drop a bomb on it and it would be fine.

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They also wired up my IPF rear light as well. Really awesome to have the threeway switch right where AEV puts it in their build. Pretty bright!
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Lastly, they fixed my body bolt issue. They said that it really wasn't the issue with the capture nut being broken off but that the threads were taken out. They got a new bolt (bigger) and fixed the threading issue. Now it's on there tight as can be.
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Alright y'all so I have a couple of mods planned for 2019 and one of them is a possible addition of a roof rack.

I have been debating between getting a Gobi roof rack and a Pioneer rack with the backbone system. I was originally wanting to get an AEV rack however the fact that it is permanently attached to the Jeep and that I can't really take the roof off is kinda a deal breaker (also it sits pretty high up).

Here is what what I like about the Gobi:
-Styling
-No drilling into the hardtop
-Can be removed
-Hardtop can be removed and the rack can be used with the top

What I don't like:
-Steel construction (rust)
-Weight
-Probably big hit in fuel economy and wind noise
-Long wait time
-Expensive


What I like about the Pioneer
-Styling (I think both look great)
-Low profile
-Aluminum
-Hardly any hit on fuel economy and wind noise

What I don't like:
-Drilling into the hardtop
-Backbone system may not be compatible with the Frontrunner interior shelf
-Can't run rack without roof


I may not even get a roof rack however I am thinking about it. If anyone has any experience with these racks let me know. What I listed out was just things that I have found from my own research.
 

Molonlabemike

New member
I am between the same two racks and honestly I think ill go with the Rhino rack with the backbone. I really prefer the gobi but the fact that it takes 6 months to get and from what I have read time and time again their customer service sucks which is a huge deal breaker. Looking forward to seeing which rack you choose.
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
So the Gladiator finally got revealed...

Currently I have no plans to sell my JK to get a fresh off the press JT. I am not a fan of being the buyer of a first model year product of a new vehicle. There is simply too great of a risk of first year gremlins (JL frame welds come to mind) to make such a drastic change.

However, quite frankly, I am in love with the Gladiator. Having a Jeep and a truck that can tow and haul a load is a highly interesting prospect. I like the utility of trucks a lot and I like the prospect of having one truck that can do it all.

So that leaves me at a bit of a crossroads. There is nothing wrong with my JK however I can definitely see myself in a JT in the early 2020's. I think the best course of action right now is to minimize vehicle specific mods to the JK and go ahead with any mods I want that I can take off the JK and swap over to a potential JT (maxtrax, lights, etc.)

Any input would be great. Would hate to sink more money into my JK when I could potentially be looking at a Gladiator Rubicon in the next few years.
 

ratled

Adventurer
Give it 2 years not, only to work out the gremlins but also give the after market folks a chance to give it the once over........ ie a cross between the Ursa Minor and slide in camper!
 

Captain Texas

Adventurer
Give it 2 years not, only to work out the gremlins but also give the after market folks a chance to give it the once over........ ie a cross between the Ursa Minor and slide in camper!

Yea 2-3 years is what I am thinking right now. Not only for the reasons above, but also so that dealers will have enough in stock and wont charge ridiculous premiums on them.
 

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