Mossman's M416 inspired build

jjmoss99

Observer
This is my build thread for my M-416 inspired expedition trailer. My wife has two trips a year and leaves me home with our three kids. When she leaves I load all the kids up and head out on our overland camping trips. I have a '91 Toyota pickup with a canopy but lately with all the kids gear and camping equipment the canopy has been rather full and with the added weight it makes the ride more rough as well. I decided that it was time to build an expedition trailer to take some of the weight out of the pickup.

I have been planning on building a new trailer for hauling firewood for several years and had been gathering parts for the build but never got around to it. I ended up just buying a new wood trailer which left all my steel and parts available for this build.

I spent many hours researching what I wanted the trailer to look like and the features that i'd like it to have. Some of the requirements are:

  • Same lug pattern on tow vehicle
  • Same axle width as tow vehicle
  • Rear swing out spare tire
  • Tailgate for easy loading of gear
  • Lid with area for RTT to be mounted
  • Onboard power
  • Onboard water
  • Jerry can mounting area

I got this axle from a neighbor and cut it down, sleeved it and welded to the width that i'd like. I had to make a compromise in the width of the axle. I knew I was going to have to run spacers (2" per side) to run the same lug pattern as the tow vehicle. I didn't like how having the axle cut 4 inches narrower than the tow vehicle was going to cut into the cargo area of the trailer. I ended up cutting the axle 2" narrower than the tow vehicle, this way once the spacers were installed the axle would be 2" wider.

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I ordered some steel and began building the frame. I started out with 4x2x0.25 tubing for the rear portion that would be the foundation for my spare tire swing out and cutout the area for the recessed tail lights. I used 2x3x0.125 inch square tubing for the perimeter of the frame and 2x2x0.125 for the cross members. The measurments will be 45" wide and 72" long.

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Once I had the frame put together it took a while to calculate what I wanted for a ride height and axle location for the proper tongue weight. I ended up going with the springs under the axle. I then took and put a bunch of weight on the trailer to try and simulate the setup. I was amazed how much the spare tire on the rear affected the balance and how much I had to move the axle back to accommodate it.

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I had the week of Thanksgiving off work so I bought the diamond plate deck and other metal. I cut the metal posts and then cut the decking and got it fitted to size. I took my time on this step seeing it was $140 for that sheet of 4x10 (extra for the fenders). I then was ready to begin building the spare tire swing out and the rear tail gate.

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I'll keep adding more as I move along. Thanks everyone for all the ideas for my trailer.


Justin
 
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jjmoss99

Observer
Today's update....

I took the last two weeks of December off work and am planning on making some good progress on the trailer. I ordered all the metal and sheet metal that I needed for the lower main portion of the trailer. I used a diagram of the dimensions of the M416 trailer that I found on this forum and had the side pieces of sheet metal sheared and bent as well. They turned out beautiful.

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I laid the diamond plate decking on the frame and noticed that it wasn't as firm as i'd like. I removed the decking and added some 1 inch square tubing to firm it up some. Afterwards the floor was very solid. I also installed the new latch for the spare tire swing out. This seems like a very rigid latch and works well. I was hoping to drill and bolt the latch to the mount but the hole pattern is just a little to wide so I ended up just welding it on. I also drilled out the hinge points on the spare tire mount to 3/4 inch and got the new bolts installed.

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Well today I was running low on stargon for my welder but I figured i'd work until I ran out. I got the sides cut and installed. I also got the 1x2 metal installed on the top of the bed rails where the lid will end up resting when it's closed. I finally ran out of gas within 3 inches of completing the welds for the sheet metal to the frame.

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Tomorrow i'm going to go get a new tank of Stargon and another 11lb spool of welding wire. This should get me through the next 2 weeks. I also need to figure out what latches I want to use for the tailgate.

My wife is ready for this project to be over and done with. I think the word "trailer" is becoming a 4 letter word.

Justin
 
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NatersXJ6

Explorer
I'm impressed. I hope to start my own wife-enraging project soon! Currently she's enraged that her projects aren't done...

What gauge of steel did you use for the sides? Do you recall the cost to shear and brake them in your area? I tried to go down that road recently, and it left me wondering If I should build a brake and start a business!

Keep up the good work!

Nate
 

jjmoss99

Observer
The sheet metal for the sides and floor are all 14 gauge, the tail gate is going to be 18 gauge. I'll have to get the receipt from out in the shop but I know the metal was $2.70 per sq/ft (24 square feet = $64.80) and I think the shearing and bending was about $60 as well. Which for the price, the parts are bent exactly the same and were so easy to work with. I started down the road of thinking that i could cut pieces and then weld them back together and now i'm extremely happy I talked myself out of that potential disaster.

Justin
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Awesome. I must be going to the wrong shops. I don't think I could get someone to take a sheet of steel out of my truck for $60.

It looks nice.
 

jjmoss99

Observer
This is a steel supply shop that sells the steel and will do some fab work if needed, such as shearing, cnc cutting, bending, etc. That may be where some of the difference comes from. Thanks, I can't wait to get it finished up and ready for the maiden voyage.

Justin
 

jjmoss99

Observer
Seeing there is over 10" of snow outside and the wind is blowing 15 mph and drifting, I relaxed in the house this morning for a while but decided to head out to the shop and get something done. I started out by finishing up the welding of the sheet metal around the box. I then cut the outer sheet of sheet metal for the rear tailgate. It went on smooth but I didn't finish welding it on. I was going to cut the inside piece of sheet metal but I held off seeing I need to build some structure inside the tailgate for the latches to mount to.

I then spent a lot of time grinding about 25 feet of welds where the sheet metal was welded around the top and vertically on the 4 corners and the smoothed them with a flap wheel. My wrist is feeling it now.

After everything was done I checked how it's doing for balance. It is heavier in the front, but the spare tire isn't installed on the rear. I'm still not comfortable that I have the axle in the right location but there is still a bunch of stuff that needs to be installed on front, ie the tongue, front storage platform, storage box, battery, jack, etc are still missing but the spare tire in the rear is very heavy.

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Justin
 

jjmoss99

Observer
February

Well i've made some significant progress but held off on posting until I had more done. After all the work I did in December and early January my right heel began to bother me. I think it was from standing and crouching on concrete for 8+ hours a day during my two week vacation. After taking a couple weeks off to recover I began to work on the trailer again.

I decided to complete the tailgate of the trailer and I found some tailgate cables for a Tundra that were about 17" long. Once they arrived I built the mount points of the trailer and the tailgate. They turned out really nice and I like the way they look.

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Here is another pic after the inside tailgate metal was cut to size.

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I took a couple afternoons to get the front platform frame material put together. I struggled at this point. Trying to calculate the angles and get everything level with the tongue was difficult. I had another trailer that I was going to sell for scrap and pull the tongue off of it to use on this trailer. By using this to mock everything up it helped a bunch but then I realized that it was 3x3x1/8 material and after doing some research in the forums, it looked like I would be better off using 3x3x3/16 material for the tongue. I took the time to hook it up to my pickup and drag it out of the shop seeing it was such a beautiful day. The trailer sits a little higher that the pickup but that's nothing that I can't adjust by flipping the stinger on the back of my pickup.

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My 8 year old son asked if he could do some welding. I gave him the welding hood and clamped a piece of scrap steel to the front platform and turned him loose. I had a hard time getting anything done the remainder of the day because he kept asking "Can I weld now" over and over again. My wife came out to the shop and watched him weld and she didn't like her "baby" welding with all the sparks flying around him, oh well, that's what dad's are for. :)

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I finally got a weekend that didn't have other things planned and spent a couple days working. I got the platforms in front of the fenders built and the diamond plate tacked down. I began welding and cutting gusset's for the corners. I'm notorious for "over engineering". I'd rather have it too heavy than fail while on the trail.

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I had just enough diamond plate left over to complete the front platform.

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The front aluminum tool box will hold the battery and all electronics for the trailer. I made the platform about 8 inches larger in all directions of the aluminum tool box for mounting jerry can's on the sides or max trax's in front of the box. It even looks like a regular sized propane tank can be mounted on the platforms in front of the fenders. My goal is to have the ability to have up to 20 gallons of fuel stored on the trailer. The fuel tank on the tow vehicle is 17 gallons so that would allow having a full refill carried on board.

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And this is the final view of from the side without the jerry can or the propane tank. This was the last of the fabrication on the main portion of the trailer. I still need to weld around all the fenders and the front platform as well as finish welding the spring perches and shackle mounts. The next step is to begin fabricating the lid, which is going to require some research and decisions on how I want to have the lid rest on the top of the trailer. With the spare tire installed on the back I took it off the jack stands and lifted the tongue. There is currently about 20lb's of tongue weight, but this is without the front tool box, battery, jack, etc. Looks like I got the axle installed at the correct location, pfew.

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radebaugh03

Observer
Hey Old Buddy,
J.R. here.. I am very very impressed! You know how to humble and old one like me with your talents! The trailer project is looking wonderful. Hopefully when I am over turkey hunting this Spring, I can catch a look at it in person. And with luck, I will remember to bring the bear sausage!
See ya soon.
J.R.
 

jjmoss99

Observer
Thanks J.R. it's been a lot of work but i'm hoping to have it all ready for the NW Overland Expo. Actually I want to take it for it's maiden voyage before the rally just to make sure that everything is ready. I want to have the lid built as well so that I can drool over all the RTT's at the rally and figure out what make and model that i'd like to purchase down the road. Yes you'll have to swing by for a cold one when you're over this way hunting.

Justin
 

jjmoss99

Observer
Well I haven't posted an update for quite sometime now. Now that spring has arrived, life is beginning to get in the way but I've still managed to make some time to work on the trailer. I'm still pushing hard to get it completed for some of the trips this summer.

Lately I've been working on the lid and the tongue of the trailer. The plan for the lid is to have a height of about 8 inches and will have a 45 degree bevel on all 4 sides. The lid will hinge on the passenger side of the trailer.

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After researching different types of hinges I wasn't able to find something that I liked. I ended up going with the weld on hinges with the grease zerk in the end. Seeing the lid metal is 14 gauge 1.5" Square tubing I wanted to have the hinges attached to a little stronger metal. I began by welding the hinges to some 1.5" x 1/8" flat stock and then tacked the entire assembly to the sides of the trailer. After i'm comfortable that this design will work i'll burn them on permanently.

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I have the tongue setup to be collapsible\removable. The minimum length is about 41 inches from the center of the ball to the edge of the front platform and will have the ability to extend it out several feet if needed.

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The jack that I ordered from Northern Tool showed up this week and I was able to get the weld on mount tacked on. It's a two stage jack so I should have plenty of travel. It comes with the foot on the bottom but I may end up putting a wheel on it at a later date.

I've been brainstorming on what I wanted to do for a rear recovery point. D rings or shackle mounts have rattled around in my brain, but I decided against that. For versatility I ended up mounting a piece of 2.5" receiver tubing in the middle of the rear bumper that I can add one of the receiver shackle mounts in or if I wanted I could throw my hitch hauler in there to put some firewood on. The 2.5" receiver tubing also ties into the cross member that is in front of the rear bumper for added strength.

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In the next couple weeks i'll have plenty to work on, there is still a bunch of welding left to do on the lid, grind the welds, and get the sheet metal on it. Thanks.

Justin
 

Daroska

New member
Aloha Justin

Just found Ur build thread & enjoyed reading about Ur progress thus far. I like Ur design on the trailer & it's accessories. Will continue to check out the thread for Ur next update.
 

jjmoss99

Observer
Daroska, Thanks for the reply. I worked on the trailer this weekend and made good progress. I'm going to put together another post today if possible.

Justin
 

jjmoss99

Observer
It's been a busy couple weeks and it doesn't seem to be slowing down for the foreseeable future. My 8 year old son has spent the winter raising a steer for 4-H and our county fair was a couple weeks ago. I then had to turn around and fly out the next day to Utah for a project for work. This was my second trip there this year, in February I took an extra day and drove over to Moab from Salt Lake City for a day trip. My flight wasn't until 9:30 PM so I only spent about 4 hours there but I realized what an amazing place it is and how much I want to go back. This trip was all work but it made me realize that my trailer would be great to take down there and camp out. When I returned home it was my week to be on call for work, which means that i'm stuck at home with the phone. Realizing that this is most likely going to be one of the few weekends for a while that I could dedicate the entire weekend to working on the trailer, I headed to the shop. My goal was to get the last of the fab work done with the exception of the sheet metal for the lid. I had to build a second lid support, rear stabilizer arms, shock mounts, and weld up a bunch of random stuff. Seeing I already had one lid support arm built I was able to just replicate it on the other side of the lid.

Next I started on the rear stabilizer arms. I didn't realize how much time this portion was going to require. It wasn't bad until I had to measure, mark, drill all the holes for the mounts and adjustments. There were 48 holes on each arm and my drill press just happened to eat the drive belt and I haven't gotten it fixed yet (I regretted that). Each hole entailed a 1/8" pilot hole, 1/4" bit then step it up to 5/16" for the final size. As you can tell, 96 holes x 3 bits = LOTS OF DRILLING, especially with a cordless drill.

Stabilizer Arms stowed for travel:
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Deployed:
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Monday morning I got up and joined a few meeting for work from home and then headed to the shop. The goal for the morning was to get the bottom of it all welded up. I had climbed underneath and did some welding but my welds in that position don't look as good so I pulled out the 4 wheeler and ran a pulley up into the rafters of my shop and stood the trailer on it's back side. I didn't think I had that much welding to do under there but it ended up taking me almost 4 hours to get everything the way that I wanted it.

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The spring perches still haven't been fully welded to the frame yet but I did put a heavier bead on them and then drug the trailer out of the shop. I took it for a spin up the road from my house and it rode really nice.

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With all the work this weekend i'm now to the point that I need to grind about 10 to 15 welds and the lid is ready for sheet metal. I'm going to order that tomorrow and pick it up. The plan has always been to have the trailer done and take it with me to the NW Overland Expo but it's not looking like i'll have it completed.

Planning has begun for the next phase of the project, coatings. I really wanted to rhino line it for protection. That was until I called and got a quote of ~$2,500. My wife would probably bury me in the trailer if I seriously tried to justify that type of expense. So now i'm looking at how I can compromise to make it durable but not break the bank.

Any ideas for the coating would be appreciated. I'm looking at the Monstaliner right now, at least for the underside, fenders, leading edges of the trailer then maybe just paint for the lid and other parts. It has good reviews and looks like it's fairly easy to work with.

Thanks

Justin
 

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