MAN 8-136 FAE 4x4 build thread

W

warthog

Observer
Hi,

So today I bought this:

MAN 8-136 min.jpg

A lot of work to do. Rusty cab. New one or weld it, I dont know yet.
Frame looks to be without rust, thats a good thing!
Engine a small oil leak at the compressor. No leaks aside of that.
Engine needs more power, how to get that, I dont know yet, Turbo or other engine, have to think about that one too!
New seats.
Wind shield wipers dont work.
Its situated 250 miles away from me.
Just didnt want to drive it home in the snow without wipers...
Car also have realy ****ty hard as rock tires...
So I let it stand at sellers place until spring or if i Can source some reasnoable priced transport. Seller was fine with that!

What I want/will do
Get it rust free
FIx oil leak
more powerful engine
get new tyres 14 / 20 michelin xzl or similar..
Make or buy a camper to put on the back

I have a a friend with a garage who I can use for work, my own is not high enough, but it will not be free to use before april/may.
So I will not post alot here before that.
Anyone with knowledge of this car who has any input I will be very thankfull!

STIG:)
 
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Cruiser79

Cruiser79

Observer
Nice trucks! A while ago I was searching the net and compared these trucks with Unimogs. They are quite basic and straight forward in my opinion. I think they are easier to maintain and repair than an Unimog. But unfortunately I'm in love with the Unimogs cause I had a few before.... If I wasn't in love, I would definitely choose a MAN army truck!
On this site you can get some inspiration; its a dutch company who builds them. http://www.outbound.eu/en/

Maybe it's an idea to buy a Nato shelter for the MAN, the danish army used them a lot and you can easily find them in Denmark, not too far from your place I think. Depends on your length, I thought the shelters are 1,90 meters inside.

man8136cac.jpg
 
W

warthog

Observer
Cruiser 79
Denmark is close, but not realy close, but will have my eyes open about parts in denmark. We will be going to Copenhagen this summer and I will by then know more about what I need for parts. Nato shelter is an option, but I have been talking to a company who makes shelters for enginering companies I will probably go that way.
I was looking for a this or Unimog myself, but this came up for a nice price and with a norwegian registration, its much easier than to have to import something from other countries! Unimog will probably be better offroad while the man might be better for normal roads.

Thanks for links!

STIG:)
 
W

warthog

Observer
I finally picked up the pickup truck.
First Stop on the way home, about 100 km from where I bought it. Had a mcdonalds meal before going over the mountains to Trondheim. Total distance was 440 km.
Here it stands besides some regular RVs..


Me and the new truck. It did ride much better than I anticipated and even if it is not a fast car it could keep a reasnoable speed uphill. I might not need to upgrade engine, we will see how it works out with new and bigger tires.


Over the mountain range (dovrefjell) it did snow even in the middle of may. It also got very cold inside the cab, heater did not work properly. Glad I had warm clothes ready in the bag. One degree celsius, luckily the roads did not freeze over. I got home without incident, and fuel consumption was 1,8 liters pr 10 km. (13.07 MPG)



The first thing to do was to remove the subframe which the crane was mounted on.



My son helped out.



We got the subframe of the mainframe.


Next step is too get the bed of the frame.

Engine is very dry a small oilleak from the air compressor but it leaks only when the car is running. No oilspill on the garagefloor in four days.

STIG:)
 
W

warthog

Observer
The bed was a bit more work than I expected, but now it should be free of the frame. Also had to fix the garage-door but should be ready to take off now.




Engine looks very good. Small leak from compressor on other side but only leaks when its running, no leaks on the floor yet.




Took of the carpet and soundproofing in the cabin. What should I use for replacement? Original will set me back about 1200 dollars.



This how it looked under the carpet....



Got "new" seat, it was much better then the old one and every adjustment works on it, felt realy good!
 
A

Ambulance_Man

New member
This looks like a fantastic project. Some welding required??

Have you looked at products like Dynamat or SilentCoat for soundproofing? I've used SilentCoat sheets with success on Landrover Defender doors but on the floor I use a very heavy cast polyurethane product (marketed as Wrights Off-Road Acoustic Matting), this is the most dramatic noise reduction product i've ever seen or used. It is specific to Defenders but the principles would work for your application.
 
W

warthog

Observer
Yeah! The bed is off the frame!



The frame is looking incredible good, some surface rust on the top of it and some very minor pitting.


Here the rust is the worst, some pitting but very shallow. Shall spray on some rust remover and rustpreventing oils after machanical removal, but I will not sandblast it, Idont think its necesary.




STIG:)
 
W

warthog

Observer
Ambulance_Man said:
This looks like a fantastic project. Some welding required??

Have you looked at products like Dynamat or SilentCoat for soundproofing? I've used SilentCoat sheets with success on Landrover Defender doors but on the floor I use a very heavy cast polyurethane product (marketed as Wrights Off-Road Acoustic Matting), this is the most dramatic noise reduction product i've ever seen or used. It is specific to Defenders but the principles would work for your application.
Click to expand...

I will definetly look into those products! Yes started cutting and prepping for welding today!
 
W

warthog

Observer
Everything is made from sheet. I have someone to help me with it, but we are both not profesionals with this so its a learning process. I need all the luck I can get!
 
W

warthog

Observer
RUST



RUST



Got some of the rust cut away, but got a big hole instead..



Electric need a cleanup too, this is the giver for the rear differential lock.



Rust takes time to fix.


STIG:)
 
W

warthog

Observer
Getting the rust under control!

The "hole" int the floor is mended with 2mm sheet steel and suported with one by one inch steel "square pipe"(dont inow the english term, guess you understand!)
The rest of the rust is cut and grinded away:


(not sure of the properterms here, maybe "panels" is the right one?)
We are making a profile which will be welded at the outer end of the inner fender, which the outer main fender will be attached to:


Spotwelded on:


In the middle of the pic a similar profile we made for the other side:
The space beetween the new and old body panels will be filled with 1,5 mm sheet metal


Grinds the welds


Looking good!:


We got more to do, but now most of the thinking for this part of the project is done!


Door clicked nicely shut, looks promising:


Today was a good day, starting to build and not just tear apart is nice!

STIG:)
 
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