XJSuperman's Jeep XJ & Related

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
I figure its about time I started a thread relating to my Jeep and my projects that go with. Im on other forums, but having something here is nice. Its a different crowd than my normal forums, with many different ideas that I like to steal, and many more suggestions on how to accomplish a task in another manner than how I see it.

So, here we go, basic stats as of right now:

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ
-standard 4.0L and AW4 trans with NP231 t-case
Under-hood Mods:
- 784 injector swap
- aFe Cold Air Intake
- Powerstrip for accessory wiring
- ac compressor OBA coming eventually (ac is dead, just need to get remaining parts and plumb it)
- 60mm bored TB
- MORE poly motor mounts
Suspension/mechanicals:
- 4" mixed lift, using Rustys ext shackles and IRO aal with Rustys shocks out back, and Tuff Country coils up front
- YJ jeep brake lines front, braided steel out back
- custom length quick disco swaybar links
- Rugged Ridge drop pitman arm
- Rustys lower control arms
- MetalCloak upper control arms
- Rubicon Express 1660 double shear trackbar
- Advance Adapters SYE
- Unisteer Durango steering gear box
Wheels and tires:
- 235/75/R15 GoodYear Duratracs on stock wheels (31s coming in spring)
Accessories:
- Front brushguard
- WICKEDBILT 5" ellipse LED lights out front
- WICKEDBILT 22" CREE LED lightbar out front
- PA system and horn
- Cobra 29WXNWST CB radio and mic upgrade and Firestik Firefly FL3 antenna
- Yakima Roof Rack
- roof rack mounted Reese high-lift FarmJack on homebrew mounts
- roof rack mounted shovel on homebrew mounts
- WickedBilt LED rear facing aux reverse work lights (roof rack mounted)
- Custom homebrew gutter mounts for rack
- custom filler-neck shield
- custom switch panel
- mounted Maglite
- mounted ax
- fire extinguisher mounted
- fresh floorboards under driver's feet
- custom gas tank skid
- tcase skid needs mounted
- too many stickers, not enough mpgs...lol.
Link to my build thread on CherokeeTalk: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f3...2001-xj-21285/
Youtube channel for some fun and boring things: XJSuperman
Video links for more recent projects:
Part 3 and maybe 4 coming...havent finished processing them yet.


A recent few pics:
157090d1454298172-xjsupermans-2001-xj-gopr7973crop-edit.jpg

147986d1444967278-xjsupermans-2001-xj-img_1448.jpg

When I got it:
14384d1360191876-xjsupermans-2001-xj-daily-double-4-.jpg

Week or so later:
14388d1360191876-xjsupermans-2001-xj-yankee-lake-mud-8-.jpg

Next few months:
14405d1360207563-xjsupermans-2001-xj-jeepin-farm-1-.jpg

14411d1360207813-xjsupermans-2001-xj-deer-day-small.jpg

14409d1360207563-xjsupermans-2001-xj-winter-wheeling-6-.jpg
 

guywithajeep

New member
nice set up, i like the look of the front bumper. 2 questions: what do you mean by "Powerstrip for accessory wiring"? and where did you mount your maglight? im just got my clips in the mail and cant decide exactly where to put them.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
The Maglite is mounted horizontally on the passenger side of the center console, where people mount their cb radios sometimes. Lens is pointed towards seat. Done right, there is plenty of room for a 3-Dcell maglite there, or even a 4 cell, that still allows movement of the seat and does not impede on leg-room. I have it within easy reach in a hurry, and its easy to put back. It also wont fly forward and kill me in the case of an accident.
17760d1370990214-xjsupermans-2001-xj-100_4885-copy.jpg


My CB is mounted overhead, between the sunvisors, forward enough I don't hit my head on it, and I can reach it and still read the controls/channel.
14395d1360193881-xjsupermans-2001-xj-100_4200.jpg


Fire extinguisher:
http://cdn.cherokeetalk.com/forum/a...5594-xjsupermans-2001-xj-fire-ext-mounted.jpg


The "powerstrip" as I called it, is really just an extension of the positive terminal off the battery. I ran a cable off the battery to the strip, and mounted it nearby so I could wire all my lights and things to that instead of having a hundred wires coming off the battery and making it a pain to disconnect or reconnect.
55433d1394413549-xjsupermans-2001-xj-img_0214.jpg

55425d1394413549-xjsupermans-2001-xj-img_0213.jpg


Interior switches:
17762d1370990214-xjsupermans-2001-xj-100_4884-copy.jpg

17763d1370990214-xjsupermans-2001-xj-100_4855-copy.jpg
 

guywithajeep

New member
Awesome! I really like the switches where you have them. I've never seen one of those "powerstrips" before, i really like how clean it makes everything.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Awesome! I really like the switches where you have them. I've never seen one of those "powerstrips" before, i really like how clean it makes everything.

Yeah, they're only a buck or two at places like swap meets and such. Flea markets sometimes have them, or farm shows. Just find those bulk consumables tables or tents, and look for the electrical guy. Every show has one lol.

fbussbar12pos__33681.1310078617.1280.1280.jpg
 
Last edited:

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Roof Rack Project:

Initial plan:
14201d1359665904-roof-rack-accessories-revised-mounting-drawing.jpg

14202d1359666041-roof-rack-accessories-100_4290smaller.jpg

14225d1359753104-roof-rack-accessories-100_4291small.jpg


Now, as for the hi-lift jack....

- I heated and beat some steel plate scrap into a u-shape around the same size pipe as the rack rail.
- Then I bent a lip 90deg at the bottom.
- 2 holes were drilled through both parts of the u-shape, bolts will go through there to clamp the mounts to the roof rack.
- A piece of round stock was welded to the back of the mounts to catch on the vertical bars of the basket and hold the mounts vertical with the weight of the jack on them.
- Then I drilled a hole in each near the center, (in a carefully marked and measured spot that lined up with the holes on the jack).
- In these^ holes I pushed a 1/2inch bolt through and welded it on both sides. They are the studs for the jack to go on.
- Washers were placed on the bolt studs, then a rubber grommet I am using for a noise-suppression spacer, then the jack, then a washer, lockwasher and large wingnut. Done.
14227d1359754222-roof-rack-accessories-jack-mount-plan.jpg

14228d1359754222-roof-rack-accessories-unfinished-jack-mounts-together.jpg

14230d1359754222-roof-rack-accessories-backside-mount.jpg

14231d1359754222-roof-rack-accessories-mount-rack.jpg

14232d1359754222-roof-rack-accessories-mounts-rack.jpg

14378d1360189630-roof-rack-accessories-roof-rack.jpg


Then later, I built these for remounting the rack to the raingutters. Working great so far.
107802d1415207002-roof-rack-accessories-guttermount-sys.jpg

138441d1434590330-what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-img_20150617_144608.jpg

138449d1434590330-what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-img_20150617_164011.jpg

139097d1435031615-what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-img_20150619_130005-2.jpg

139113d1435031615-what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-ncm_0311.jpg

139137d1435031615-what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-ncm_0321.jpg

139129d1435031615-what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-img_20150622_205552-1.jpg


I have all the autodesk inventor parts drawings if anyone needs them.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Gas Tank Skid Project:

This is another recent project, I finally decided I wanted to get my hitch upgraded from a 1.25" to a full 2" receiver, and I wasn't doing that unless I had a skidplate, and possibly more towpoints at the same time. I do not enjoy doing the same thing several times over if I can do it all at once. So here we go...
I started with this writeup, and changed it a bit for my design. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/..._Tank_Skid.htm

Using a piece of 24"x34" 3/16" diamond plate sheet, this will be divided into 3 rectangles.
The first is 2.5"x34"
The second is 12"x34"
The third is 9ish (whats left)x34"
DO NOT cut all the way through. Just enough to bend the plate (fold it). Use a cutoff wheel or similar device.
147674d1444710504-gas-tank-skid-plate-gas-tank-skid-plate-sheet.jpg

My hitch is 34" from mount to mount (see pic) which makes it perfect for the skid. I lined up the hitch and skid, and welded them together for more strength and rigidity. It clears the exhaust pretty well and allows just enough room for the mounts and bolt holes.
147682d1444711029-gas-tank-skid-plate-34in-wide.jpg


The plate you have cut and prepped for bending is ready to bend. Here are your approximate angles:
147690d1444711532-gas-tank-skid-plate-side-view-angles.jpg


Weld that up, and do so slowly and evenly to avoid warppage. Next is drain holes and hitch clearance. Make sure you have several drainage spots available for water and mud to get out. I torched 4 in cause Im lazy and didnt want to drill them, its a skidplate people, and on the front bottom side, so who cares.

I clearanced two spots that butt up against the hitch where the safety chains hook on. I just wanted to make sure A) I can shove a hose in there to flush it, and B) get an oversized hook through there.

147698d1444711958-gas-tank-skid-plate-hitch-clearances.jpg


Then the sides/mounts needed cut and welded in...
148802d1446055170-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1550.jpg


I had to add some length to the hitch mounts to tie into another hole in the frame, adding strength, and balance to the skid mounts.
148818d1446055170-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1552.jpg


Then it was welded up
148834d1446055170-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1554.jpg


After primer and paint (duplicolor self-etching and rustoleom hammered finish paint/primer in one)
148954d1446080134-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1561.jpg

148962d1446080134-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1567.jpg

148970d1446080134-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1568.jpg

148978d1446080134-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1570.jpg

148986d1446080134-gas-tank-skid-plate-img_1565.jpg


149946d1447730641-gas-tank-skid-plate-skid2view.jpg

149954d1447730641-gas-tank-skid-plate-skid1view1.jpg


NOTE: the drawings and actual product are different because i welded my hitch to the skid. If you have an aftermarket bumper and don't need a hitch, then the above drawings will work for you.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Trying to get a couple little things done and caught up the last day or two. Today I rewelded the top front bar on my brushguard. Initial welds were really thin and cold between my homebrew flanges that allow the brushguard to bolt together vs the factory method of slide-together tubes and such. One of them finally let go so I fixed it.

Before this I replaced the axle-side ujoint in my front driveshaft. About time, original only lasted 160,000 miles, almost on the dot. Used a NAPA "SuperStrength" greasable joint. Have the same one in the axle-side of my rear "front" driveshaft and its been good so far. (I have the SYE-with-factory-front-driveshaft-in-the-rear thing going on right now.)

Also threw my rear corner plastic back on until I actually motivate myself to build or buy a rear bumper.

Projects on the "short to-do" list remaining are:
-speaker wiring needs replaced (probably front speakers too)
-touch up paint on brushguard I just fixed.
-shackle relocators would be nice
-need to fix or replace headliner that recently started sagging. (Hate that crap, makes me sick. Must have a saggin headliner phobia of some kind.)
-need to install the tcase skid I made
-a locker of some sort is moving up the list
-but so are tires and wheels, and thinking about that is painful to my wallet
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn

Think I found my minor death wobble cause at the 3:00 min mark. Thats at torque spec. Ive been told to just crank it down. Seems reasonable right? RE1660 trackbar
 

iluv83vettes

Adventurer

Think I found my minor death wobble cause at the 3:00 min mark. Thats at torque spec. Ive been told to just crank it down. Seems reasonable right? RE1660 trackbar

The frame side mount is also flexing just after 2 minutes in the video. That can easily cause death wobble.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Tightened everything up yesterday and the bottom doesn't move at all now, but I havent been seeing any real movement in the top. Bolts are all tight, but the video makes it look worse than it is. You don't see any up close in person. Im even marked it on the frame and bracket and watched for differences and showed no movement between marks.

Ill know more if/when it comes back. I can always weld it.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Had a question about the gutter mount brackets...so this may help. Lost my cad drawings it seems.

gutter mounts.jpg

Just be sure that the slot and the hole with the nut welded to the backside will line up. You can bend the bracket pieces however you like but I tried to keep them uniform. I should note that the first drawing of the second piece is total height prior to bending the lower lip.
 

GordoSmasho

Observer
If you have been dealing with wobble for a bit that lower tracbar hole might be wollowed a bit. Re makes a poly bushing for that joint and also a 1/2" bolt option for that bushing. That would give you the ability to open the hole up and re hone that mount. I have both. I also made a brace for the upper tracbar bracket that goes to the passenger frame rail to stop the flex at that end. Death wobble is hard to come by now. Even after several wheeling trips. I used to have to do an alignment after every wheeling trip to get home without wobble. I also added currie steering.
 

XJSuperman

OhIOWAn
Yup, RE supplied a 1/2" bolt, which I am using, and the hole looks perfect, much to my surprise. I removed the arm, and slid the bolt in the hole, up tight of course, and there was not a hair of movement. Hole to bolt fit is tight. I was concerned about it, but not anymore. Just realized I did not post my followup video, here:


 

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