Tires Weight for Expo Trailer - does it matter?

[vtsoundman]

Quick Question: Should I look for light weight tires or does it matter?

Not sure they have to match size/weight/tread pattern of my jeep as carrying a spare for each is no big deal. This thing loaded will likley be less than 1000lbs (its barely over 350# now). Suspension is currently leaf spring slipper style. Will likely move to independent Timbrens after it has been modded - for now, we will run it like this to get a feel for what we want to do (fuel, water, drawers, etc)

Here is the trailer as it currently stands.


Just after sand blasting:

 

[tarditi]

Doesn't matter too much if you have hubs/bearings and trailer suspension that can take it.
It is unsprung weight, so it won't add to tongue weight or diminish cargo capacity per se, but will add to overall trailer combined weight.
I run BFG AT KO2 tires on 15x8 jeep wheels on my M100 trailer. I wanted to match wheels and tires to my JKUR, but it became a serious slippery slope to do so and not worth it IMHO.

 

[ZMagic97]

For your specific needs, the quick answer is no. However, I would still buy good, name brand tires as the cheap ones/knock-offs always lead to blowouts: ask anyone with a motor home or trailer.

 

[vtsoundman]

Doesn't matter too much if you have hubs/bearings and trailer suspension that can take it.
It is unsprung weight, so it won't add to tongue weight or diminish cargo capacity per se, but will add to overall trailer combined weight.
I run BFG AT KO2 tires on 15x8 jeep wheels on my M100 trailer. I wanted to match wheels and tires to my JKUR, but it became a serious slippery slope to do so and not worth it IMHO.

True - I didn't know if the thing would bounce around more/less with the heavier tire. Driving it home with the current tires 225/75/15@ 20PSI, it bounced all over the place. Scared the crap out of the people in the lanes next to me.

First thing I did was swap out the existing springs from rusty 3 or 4 leaf slippers that I could not get to deflect...at all. Since this is purpose built, I swapped in a pair of 2-leaf 500# (for total of 1000#) springs. (They might be 650#'ers...need to check.) That should help with some of the bouncing (haven't road tested it yet).

I am considering a tall skinny 85 series tire - 235/85/16 or 255/85/17. Both would require new wheels - AND these might require a new fender - and I kind of dig the look of it now. I was thinking about something that will roughly match the height of my jeep - figured I could use it as a spare in a jam. But on the other hand, the trailer is running a ~22575r15 tire now and it looks somewhat correctly proportioned/follows the radius of the fender. The PO gave me a 31x10.5 spare - said that what was on it when he bought it. It also looks pretty good (diameter wise) but won't know until its mounted on the trailer.

For your specific needs, the quick answer is no. However, I would still buy good, name brand tires as the cheap ones/knock-offs always lead to blowouts: ask anyone with a motor home or trailer.

RE: Cheap tires -> agree...been towing trailers for many years. Usually swap in tires rated higher (if trailer calls for a C, will use an D/E).

 

[skersfan]

trailers normally do not take the brunt of the punishment, so having giant matching tires is not a requirement. But most of us end up that way anyway. Get a good tire with the strongest side wall you can find in the price range you want to spend. Ripping a sidewall is where most trailer tire failures occur.

 

[vtsoundman]

Some tests...

I experimented with my light weight trailer (around 400#). Swapped 500# springs (1000# total)

Ran the tires that came on it - set of noname 225/75r15 passenger car tires(1700# rating). Pressure around 20#.
Moderate bouncing, but much less than when it has the rusted 1500#/3000# spring set - that was just dangerous. Tried 10# - much better.

Then ran 31x10.50R15 no-name C rated AT tires(2100# rating) . Tried various pressures - 20# then 10#.
Bouncing about the same as the car tire at 20#, but could feel more of the impacts through the jeep (if that makes any sense) and it seemed to react more to small bumps.
Most improved at 10#, but this seems too low for high speed travel and proper bead pressure.
The lowest pressure I've seen on inflation chart for radial tires is 20#. (Lowest for ST radial trailer tires was 13).

I'd like to try a set of E rated 255/85/17s...or any E rated tires. I'll see if I can find some used and rims that will fit...

Any thoughts on the above results? Seems like it tracks with the comments - not a whole lotta difference in ply rating. Based on my reading, seems like PSI is much more influential and I should be able to run pretty low pressures as long as I keep an eye on heat, Not worried about the bead since lateral forces aren't nearly that of a vehicle.


Example table...

 

[vtsoundman]

Thought I would update the thread a bit with some info. I have used C no-name AT tire rated 31 x 10.50 tire and passenger car tires of slightly similar size. I ran 18# in the 31's and 20# in the passenger car tires. The passenger car tires ride a great deal more smoothly with less bounce both on an off road. I've swapped in 650# rated springs (slipper type, 2 leaf) - thought I would try this route before welding in new spring hangers. Wow, what an amazing difference a lighter spring makes. High speeds on corrugations and the trailer is quite controlled - very little pogo action, esp with the car tires. I'm guessing 300# of gear & 350# of trailer - I'm right around 50% of the spring capacity. The springs compressed ~0.5" when loaded with camping gear. The trailer tracks well at high speeds over rough highways and around corners. At some point, I will swap out the slipper springs for hangers/shackles and run some small shocks.