Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction

ARB's?

There are pros and cons to the electric lockers. Pros are that you can shift it with a screwdriver if the motor has a problem and they don't require a compressor, just simple wiring. Cons are the bulk of the electric motor (though I've never hit mine on any rocks), the motor is also very expensive and have one specific potential problem which cannot be repaired.

I do hate the procedure for removal and installation of the rear LC electric locker too. It's overly complicated as compared to the 8" front or TRD 8" rear.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
ARB's?

There are pros and cons to the electric lockers. Pros are that you can shift it with a screwdriver if the motor has a problem and they don't require a compressor, just simple wiring. Cons are the bulk of the electric motor (though I've never hit mine on any rocks), the motor is also very expensive and have one specific potential problem which cannot be repaired.

I do hate the procedure for removal and installation of the rear LC electric locker too. It's overly complicated as compared to the 8" front or TRD 8" rear.

I am going to split the difference. I think I am going to replace the electric motors with some small air actuators.
I will still be able to lock them from the outside if I want, but they will be faster to engage/disengage.
This will basically be the same thing I have with the OX air shift locker in the Flatty.
 

NCFJ

Adventurer
I like the air actuator idea. People go ga ga over finding a locked 80 series. I'd rather have a nice clean 80 and put a set of Harrops in it and be done. Too many issues with 20 plus year old electric lockers.

The doors are so cool!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Tonights fun.......back on the scales.....



2100 Front ( 1060 Drivers, 1040 Passengers
1640 Rear ( 820 Drivers, 820 Passengers
3740 Total

This isn't a final weight, but should be pretty close. It looks like I might SQUEAK in at 3XXXlbs when it is driveable. With people, fuel, tools, spares, etc it will be 4500 pretty easy.

Front end is 640lbs unsprung from previous measurements
Rear end is 620lbs unsprung from previous measurements

Front sprung is now 1460lbs
Rear sprung is now 1000lbs

I am liking the front to rear bias other than it is going to make the rear springs a big question again.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
A big day today.



I was finally able to roll this thing outside into the sunlight for the first time! This is one of my favorite times in a build. It is really awesome to be able to get more than a few feet away from it for the 1st time.

I pulled me up a chair and just stared at it for a bit.

This thing kinda ended up like my flat fender. It just doesn't scale well in pictures to my eye, you just have to see it in person. I like it. I really like it. The tires look silly huge. This thing does have a different scale to it. There is about 21.5" under the belly and 26" under the rockers. Overall width is just about 80" wide. There isn't much past the tires, but the wheelbase is 112". This thing is gonna be tons of fun! I still have a bit of weight to add, but right now it has just over 6" uptravel in front, 5" on the rear suspension, and will have a 10.6/10.1 travel shocks. This thing is going to be a bucket of fun!

Now to clean and reorgainize the shop for the shell game that is the tear-down phase....
 

VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
Those doors are turning out fantastic. It looks like it is a pretty stout vehicle, I like the stance and the overall presence. It looks big and not big at the same time.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader


Ok, I relent. After spending a bit too much time looking at the high pinion FZJ80 front diff in the #LX45, I just can't really fit the air locker Elocker conversion I want. I am sure with a few weeks to kill I could figure it out, but I don't have that much time now. So watchers, I need an education on how to wire the factory Elocker. I'd like it to be simple. I'd like it to use an old fashion switch if possible. I guess it would be nice to have the indicators work for lock-locking-unlock if I am going to do it. It would be nice if all this was contained in the switch somehow. Diagrams appreciated. I have all the factory plugs and tails for the front and rear Elockers from the host chassis/body.
 

bkg

Explorer


Ok, I relent. After spending a bit too much time looking at the high pinion FZJ80 front diff in the #LX45, I just can't really fit the air locker Elocker conversion I want. I am sure with a few weeks to kill I could figure it out, but I don't have that much time now. So watchers, I need an education on how to wire the factory Elocker. I'd like it to be simple. I'd like it to use an old fashion switch if possible. I guess it would be nice to have the indicators work for lock-locking-unlock if I am going to do it. It would be nice if all this was contained in the switch somehow. Diagrams appreciated. I have all the factory plugs and tails for the front and rear Elockers from the host chassis/body.

I believe 12voltguy.com and Inchworm both make kits... not sure if that's a route you want to go, but options...
 
Well Inchworm is no longer in business and the other harnesses I have seen are pretty cheap looking. I make my own using Carling switches and Carling switch housing connectors, and also using OEM actuator pigtails (which are still available).

Knowing the level of quality Brennan is capable of, he will likely want to make his own as well.
 

bkg

Explorer
Well Inchworm is no longer in business and the other harnesses I have seen are pretty cheap looking. I make my own using Carling switches and Carling switch housing connectors, and also using OEM actuator pigtails (which are still available).

Knowing the level of quality Brennan is capable of, he will likely want to make his own as well.

I thought Jim was still part of it, post acquisition? I haven't talked to him in years, so I haven't been keeping up.
 

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