Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction

[Metcalf]

Good point. I keep old 12 pack cardboard or other misc cardboard packaging for that purpose because I can't stomach the price of the chip board. Art supply stores usually have it in large enough sheets, but the cost is huge.

Uline has it, but again, the cost is high. https://www.uline.com/BL_1852/Chipboard-Pads?keywords=chipboard

Some other forum suggested getting blems from picture frame stores or from fabric stores. Another source suggested befriending someone who works at a food packaging plant, but all of those options require foot work.

Edit - I just found this source. Not so bad - http://www.papermart.com/brown-gray...SKU=&utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=cpa#4661

Great thread, love the unique idea. I think its interest that the LR transfer case you are using has a 1.2 output. Seems like Advanced Adapters or aftermarket transfer case company X would make something similar. Maybe they do and i haven't found it.
On question for you though, where did you get the chip board from? I do a lot of mockup with cardboard myself, and it looks like the material your using is rigid enough and thin enough to fit the bill, mind telling me where you got it?
Keep up that amazing work.
So glad that I am not the only one that is designing the next rig while building the current one.

I got the chip board from Blick Art Supplies. I recommend the .06 thick version. It seems to be the best combination of thickness vs workability.
If you buy like $40 bucks or something they ship free and you will have enough for lots of projects.

 

[Metcalf]

Just more practice over here....





I think things are getting better, but still not there yet...

I am going to try some 1/16 filler instead of 3/32nd. I think that will help out a little bit with the puddle getting too cool too fast when trying to work corners.

I can functionally make a tank right now, but it will not look like I want.

Things that seem to be helping on outside corners.

-A tapered 2% Lanthinated Tungsten with a slight flat on the end seems to work better than a ball for outside corners for sure.

-Slightly less amps seems to be required for outside corner work. I'm doing 1/8" 5052 at 100-110 amps max and not really needing to mat the pedal.

-Make the tack welds as small as you can.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

One trick I use when making boxes or welding aluminum corners, bend a 90 degree flange on one of the sides. It may seem like a shortcut, but it adds strength which comes in handy while welding. Less distortion and warpage.

It may seem like a hack shortcut, but if it's not visible, it won't affect the finished appearance of the job.

 

[Metcalf]

One trick I use when making boxes or welding aluminum corners, bend a 90 degree flange on one of the sides. It may seem like a shortcut, but it adds strength which comes in handy while welding. Less distortion and warpage.

It may seem like a hack shortcut, but if it's not visible, it won't affect the finished appearance of the job.

I'll have to give it a try.

 

[Metcalf]

I needed a break from TIG welding for a night.....





I made some 10 gauge tie in plates for the rear bumper/crossmember made and got them tack welded into place.

I decide to have the fuel fuel tank skidplate made out of house. I just couldn't really bend 1/4" thick 5052-H32 aluminum comfortably, even in my new press. That stuff is just stiff. Once the skidplate is done I can finalize the dimensions on the fuel tank and start construction on that.

 

[Metcalf]

Just welding on the rear bumper tonight. I don't think its coming off.

 

[Loubaru]

As always, looking great. I'll definitely be stealing a few of your ideas but using them on much more simple projects. I'm still somewhat surprised that you haven't looked into opening up your own shop. But then again, turning the hobby into a job could ruin it for you...

Figured I'd stop in and let you know that the amount of high end/precision fabrication that you and a few other people on this site do out of their garage/shop inspired me to finally buy a welder (refurb handler 190), a cheap cold cut chop saw, and a few other odds and ends to start getting into metal work (or you just gave me an excuse...). So far its just been a couple pieces of metal/reclaimed wood furniture but once I find a G1 Tundra it will be sliders and probably a rear bumper. I worked in a couple machine/fab shops during college which made me never want to get into it because I couldn't do things "correctly" without a full shop but you can'ish, it just takes more time and sometimes calling in favors. Maybe you'll "inspire" me to buy a spool gun soon, or at least that's what I'll tell the wife .

 

[Metcalf]

This hood is a later model one-piece unit without the seam down the middle. The vents are also in a slightly different place and appear to be a bit larger. Overall this hood is in 10x better shape than the mock up one....

 

[Metcalf]

As always, looking great. I'll definitely be stealing a few of your ideas but using them on much more simple projects. I'm still somewhat surprised that you haven't looked into opening up your own shop. But then again, turning the hobby into a job could ruin it for you...

Figured I'd stop in and let you know that the amount of high end/precision fabrication that you and a few other people on this site do out of their garage/shop inspired me to finally buy a welder (refurb handler 190), a cheap cold cut chop saw, and a few other odds and ends to start getting into metal work (or you just gave me an excuse...). So far its just been a couple pieces of metal/reclaimed wood furniture but once I find a G1 Tundra it will be sliders and probably a rear bumper. I worked in a couple machine/fab shops during college which made me never want to get into it because I couldn't do things "correctly" without a full shop but you can'ish, it just takes more time and sometimes calling in favors. Maybe you'll "inspire" me to buy a spool gun soon, or at least that's what I'll tell the wife .

Don't get me in trouble with your wife!

I tinker on the side, but am very hesitant about doing fab work as a full time thing. I think eventually I will end up there when I can semi-retire, but the truth is my day job pays well and doesn't keep me busy past a straight 40. I will continue to build on the side, and perhaps start to try and sell a complete car every year or something. Anyone want to buy a Lexus in about 9 months?

While I have acquired a decent amount of tools over the years, you can get by without much if needed. The minimum for me would be a welder, 4" grinder, and a drill. In skilled hands that can do a LOT more than most people think. I love having the little HF drill press. I would like something bigger, but honestly that thing has drilled 1000s of holes and only cost like $100 or less. The HF 4x6 bandsaw is another I wouldn't want to give up. Again, 1000s of cuts and cost $225 on sale. There are a lot of cheaper tools out there that really don't get the credit they deserve honestly. It isn't till you start to get into things like tubing benders, lathes, and press brakes that you start to spend real money....

Keep it up, find something to fab, you can do it.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I must say, one tool that absolutely changed my life was the plate shear I bought for $250. It will shear 1/4" plate without hassle and is great for brackets and stuff. The Portaband is another game changer. 70% of the fab work you do on a chassis or suspension can be done with these two tools.

 

[Metcalf]

I must say, one tool that absolutely changed my life was the plate shear I bought for $250. It will shear 1/4" plate without hassle and is great for brackets and stuff. The Portaband is another game changer. 70% of the fab work you do on a chassis or suspension can be done with these two tools.

I think we might need a shop tour

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Someday... I need to get cleaned up and reorganized first.

It's not much by today's standards. The view out the big door is probably the best part.

 

[NCFJ]

The view out the big door is probably the best part.

I love the view out my overhead doors, first day of Spring and I had mine up!!!

 

[Willman]

Keep up the great work! TIG welding is an art. I think i enjoy that the most. Kind of relaxing to the soul. Cool to see some of these custom truck projects and the TIG welding.

 

[Metcalf]

Been slacking, sorry all.

With EJS prep, EJS, the flatty run, and having to buy a replacement DD in there I got a few things done.



I finally got the gas tank skidplate cut and bent. It is 1/4" thick aluminum that is about 41" wide which is just to much for my press. Honestly, I had the plate laser cut with all the features I wanted and cnc bent along with shipped for less than I could get a sheet of material for locally.

The skidplate bolts to the rear bumper bracket and also has two 10mm rivet nuts in the bottom of the frame per side for weight support.



I'm still getting use to this aluminum TIG welding thing. This 1/4" stuff about maxed out my home welder. It isn't coming back apart. I am pretty sure about that.



After test fitting a few different templates for the bottom profile of the tank I decided on the final shape for the tank....



Made a print for the tank with all the bend centerline information and transferred that over to some 1/8" 5052-H32 aluminum.



Cut it out using the trusty jig saw with 14tpi Bosch blades with a touch of wax on the blade.



Bent up the main part of the tank in one go on the press brake I built a little bit ago. I was able to do all 4 bends in this design to make a complete tube with only one seam on the top front. The last bend made the ends pinch the top truss, but the material is flexible enough to allow that. Once it was bent I dropped the top truss, spun the open end down, and was able to remove it.



Overall I am very happy with how that all worked. The ends where less than an inch apart after all the cutting and bending. It was easy to clamp the ends together to get the final shape. I will be able to tack and fit everything pretty easy.



This is where I am at tonight. I was able to test fit the shape of the tank down in the pocket that the skidplate created. It fit great. I am super happy!

That is all for now. I have to make the baffles, end caps, and fuel pump mount next. Then comes lot of aluminum welding.