Xpedition Camper out of Minnesota

Britboaters

Observer
Just read through the whole thread and really enjoyed the way you have been so generous to share your progress, and incorporate ideas from this community. I was so engrossed that I was surprised there was no "next" button at the bottom of the page !
I'm in the process of building a camper myself, based on a GMC Topkick.
I noticed in the early stages you did a lot of work on a well engineered 3 point pivot mounting system for your subframe; then you seemed to change to a more traditional system with springs etc. There has been a lot of discussion here regarding the merits of each.
I plan on using a simple box van body, 14 ft long, 8 ft wide and 7 ft high, for cost and speed of build. I plan to mount it on a stout subframe, but can't make my mind up on how to mount the subframe to the truck.
Would you be willing to share your thoughts on this subject please, ?
By the way, a very impressive build !
Thanks, Bob
 

Hoefler

Supporting Sponsor: Haf Xpedition Camper
Just read through the whole thread and really enjoyed the way you have been so generous to share your progress, and incorporate ideas from this community. I was so engrossed that I was surprised there was no "next" button at the bottom of the page !
I'm in the process of building a camper myself, based on a GMC Topkick.
I noticed in the early stages you did a lot of work on a well engineered 3 point pivot mounting system for your subframe; then you seemed to change to a more traditional system with springs etc. There has been a lot of discussion here regarding the merits of each.
I plan on using a simple box van body, 14 ft long, 8 ft wide and 7 ft high, for cost and speed of build. I plan to mount it on a stout subframe, but can't make my mind up on how to mount the subframe to the truck.
Would you be willing to share your thoughts on this subject please, ?
By the way, a very impressive build !
Thanks, Bob

Bob,
Thinking on a 3 point mount-it point loads the frame of your truck. Imagine put 100,000 pounds on a 3 point mount-the load pushes down on front, and back. The frame pushes back at the leaf spring mounts. Then think on what the weight is doing-its actually bowing the truck frame up. I looked at how cargo boxes are mounted on military trucks and found thats the best way I could see on mounting. The load is spread evenly on rails. Spring mounts simply locate the bed on the rails. The truck frame actually flexes independent of camper frame. Do some research on an M35A2 military truck-look at the TM (technical manuals on Steel Soldiers). It shows how to mount. I actually have some of these trucks and have observed frame flex and cargo bed mounting. Seems to work well for the military with 19 year old city kids driving the trucks!
Pete
 

Hoefler

Supporting Sponsor: Haf Xpedition Camper
Are you building any boxes that would house a pair of Honda 2000 generators and allow them to run while traveling?

I happen to have a pair of those Honda gennys. In answer to your question, we can build for those. I would add vents for heat and air flow. Further, we could make a hold down that mates to the feet on the gennys. In this way, a rear vent could be located to allow for exhaust gas exit.
We can do this. Email me at pete@camperlogic.com if you are interested.
Pete
 

Hoefler

Supporting Sponsor: Haf Xpedition Camper
Just finished and delivered a Tray Pak for a customer out east. We have incorporated the stile rails into the actual tray for a low profile. Tray sits as low as possible on truck frame and includes a rear drawer for things like shovels and jacks.
We loaded an S280 military enclosure on it for a trip to Mexico.
 

Hoefler

Supporting Sponsor: Haf Xpedition Camper
We have made an integral ISO style hold down in each corner. Works with holding camper down. Fittings can be added when truck is without camper and in utility mode.
Pete
 

Attachments

  • cornerpicsmall.jpg
    cornerpicsmall.jpg
    150 KB · Views: 122
  • boxersmall.jpg
    boxersmall.jpg
    126.6 KB · Views: 126
  • enclosure1small.jpg
    enclosure1small.jpg
    171 KB · Views: 123
  • decksmall.jpg
    decksmall.jpg
    172.6 KB · Views: 111
  • reardrawersmall.jpg
    reardrawersmall.jpg
    400.8 KB · Views: 105
  • lockdownrearsmall.jpg
    lockdownrearsmall.jpg
    144.8 KB · Views: 108
  • parkinglotsmall.jpg
    parkinglotsmall.jpg
    426.5 KB · Views: 114

hobbsrt

Member
We have made an integral ISO style hold down in each corner. Works with holding camper down. Fittings can be added when truck is without camper and in utility mode.
Pete
Love this. I am looking for something just like this for my 2001 gmc 2500 longbed to put a flatbed camper on. Can you provide some info on cost and timing?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

Hoefler

Supporting Sponsor: Haf Xpedition Camper
I have another camper under construction. I have done this one with nearly 150 gallons water capacity in floor-100/50 fresh/gray in an effort to get center of gravity as low as possible. Tanks are constructed of 304 stainless steel and mounted on rubber isolators.
I have also lightened the frame by using the furniture as a stressed member.
The furniture is a composite of aluminum square tube and birch plywood-its strong and light in weight.
We have built an enclosed aluminum electrical box that places all the heavy electrical stuff over the center of rear axle. This box is accessed from inside of camper body.
Trying a build from inside out and finding it much much easier. Running electrical and plumbing is significantly easier this way. It allows for tidy arrangements. Progress on this one is swift. It is much less heavy than our previous unit.
Pete
 

Attachments

  • tanks.jpg
    tanks.jpg
    322.3 KB · Views: 77
  • frame with furniture.jpg
    frame with furniture.jpg
    427.7 KB · Views: 72
  • composite detail.jpg
    composite detail.jpg
    416.2 KB · Views: 71
  • electrical box.jpg
    electrical box.jpg
    336.8 KB · Views: 73

nick disjunkt

Adventurer
We have built an enclosed aluminum electrical box that places all the heavy electrical stuff over the center of rear axle. This box is accessed from inside of camper body.

Looks great, nice work. Experience from building my own camper is that I would make sure to vent the electrical cabinet externally. The inverter and battery charger both generate a lot of heat, and they noticeably increase the temperature inside the truck when working hard. Not a problem in mild climates, but can be a pain in the tropics. In a perfect world I would still like the equipment to be accessed from the inside only, but would seal the access door and vent the cabinet well (perhaps actively) to the outside.
 

Hoefler

Supporting Sponsor: Haf Xpedition Camper
Thanks for commenting. We too have experienced the heat that comes of big invertors. We have an aluminum front vent for the cabinet-a source for fresh air to come into electrical box. We are forcing air with small fams. The hot air exhausts up a "chimney" in an effort to duct warm air up. We are placing in a solar powered RV vent in roof to allow hot air to forcibly escape out through roof.
Pete
 

Attachments

  • 20180103_082543.jpg
    20180103_082543.jpg
    517.6 KB · Views: 57
  • ventforeb.jpg
    ventforeb.jpg
    496.8 KB · Views: 55
  • elecbox-1.jpg
    elecbox-1.jpg
    481.1 KB · Views: 59

Forum statistics

Threads
185,533
Messages
2,875,603
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top