275/70/18 on LR3

[Avslash]

Avslash- the TR bumper looks great on your 4. I've been going back and forth between the ARB and TR for a while.

Also, are you running 1.25" spacers with those LR3 wheels? I just put some LR3 10 spoke wheels with 1.25" spacers on my LR4 with some 285/65/18 Terra Grapplers I found for a great deal on CL, but the rubbing is pretty bad. Curious as to what your setup is and what the rubbing is like.

Yes, I am running the 1.25" Motorsport Tech spacers mentioned in Scott Brady's build thread.

With the 275/65R18 I get slight rubbing at just short of full lock on the TR rock sliders. This rubbing goes away once you hit full lock on the wheel. The frame horns have been cut off and welded over on my LR4, so they are no longer an issue. I predict that this size tire will not rub at all after a few thousand miles of wear on the new tires. There are no issues with control arm clearance.

I previously ran 265/65R18's. They would rub very slightly on the frame horns at full lock only. Just enough to leave a shiny spot on the outside edge of the frame horns. With the frame horns removed, or really, just persuaded a bit with a hammer, there would be no rubbing in that configuration on anything.

I strongly considered going to the Compomotive 18" wheels when installing the 275/65R18's. If my understanding is correct, those wheels would place the wheel/tire combo slightly more inboard than the Stock wheel/spacer configuration. I think this would address the rubbing on the TR rock sliders. My issue on that is strictly cost benefit. The wheels on my truck get beaten to holy hell and back when wheeling on rocky talus slope like trails in the mountains. At roughly $125.00 a pop over the internet, the stock LR3 18's are somewhat of a disposable item, the Compomotives at $400ish, not so much.

On the ARB vs. TR gear, it was a no brainer for me. I looked into the cost to get my hands on an ARB front/Rear bumper, and it was crazy expensive versus the TR gear, which provides the same, if not better, functionality. I prefer the look of the TR rear bumper, as well. Once TR gets their second swing arm to market, it should offer all the functionality of the ARB version, as well.

 

[Avslash]

AVS, I want to see where you put your washer fluid bottle... I stuck mine between the passenger air box and headlight where my compressor used to be... Putting the compressor in the drivers side lower bumper this weekend...

Mine is an LR4, not LR3 so I have to deal with the dual air intakes.

The washer bottle is on the passenger side in front of the passenger side air filter housing. I would like to fab up a method to put the washer bottle into the front bumper to free up the space it currently occupies for a compressor. I would prefer to have the compressor under the hood and above the level of the air intake so that it doesn't ever get submerged in water.

I will try and get a pic later.

I would love to see how you mount your compressor in the bumper, as well.

 

[dsm02c]

This is where my compressor was, going to start working tomorrow night on installing it in the TR bumper. Will post pics then. Eric told me what bottle to buy based on someone else's work... I just fabricated a bracket to hold the fluid bottle...

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[Avslash]

Here is where mine is sitting now.

Please do post some pictures of yours when you get it done, and the bracket you fabricated.

I think there is just enough room to fit my ARB dual compressor in that spot, if I can get the fluid bottle relocated.

 

[racehorse]

FWIW - Those running rods, if you blow or flatten a front tire the computer will think something went terribly wrong with the suspension and will drop you to the bump stops with a red fault. In order to clear the fault you need to lift the front and rear off of the stops until the computer can recognize the rods are back in a usable range it can measure. Essentially, when it flattens the height sensor arms move out of range and the fault is unclearable using an IID tool or faultmate or pick your code reader tool here. I have the unfortunate experience of having it happened twice.

I include this info because (well it happened to me - twice) and because those running larger tires than a 265/65/18 something as silly as a flat tire can immobilize the rig. You'll need a way to lift both the front and back of the rig simultaneously, then you can clear the fault and be on your way.

ALSO - FWIW some real world experience, it might prove more important to carry spare air struts (a solution). The air struts rarely 'blow' they actually just wear and then start hissing out air until the compressor can no longer keep up, then you move from a gold fault to red and down to the bump stops. No amount of remedy (IID/diagnostics/green oval/pulling fuses) will repair a torn air bag.)

cheers - hope this helps

 

[Bama4door]

Racehorse - good info. I didn't know this would happen with a flat.

What's odd is the other week I woke up one morning to my passenger front tire completely flat on my LR4 (valve stem was loose). I have some homemade shortened rods I made and the suspension on all 3 other corners was still exactly the same and had not dropped the suspension.

I guess what you were describing will only happen if you get a flat while the car is running?

 

[Avslash]

Racehorse is correct. It is just something to carry in the mental file for these trucks.

When I dropped mine to bumpstops using the IID tool, I had the same issue. I run the GOE adjustable rods, so it was literally just a matter of sliding your hand in there and sliding the rod over to the other notch. Once that was done, I was back in business. I really like these rods for their ease of changing settings. They also make a set that has three notches, that will allow you to access super extended height, as well.

If I were truly going off the grid, I would likely carry a spare front and rear air spring as he mentioned. Theoretically, its only 2 sockets and a pry-bar needed to change them out. Not something I would want to do on the trail, but doable in an emergency.

 

[racehorse]

On the flat tire to the bump stops - I'm not sure if the moving car was the result of the last event in my case - I feel it was because my wife was driving, traveling around 60 mph and said she hadn't even noticed the tire (bfg at) was flat - she only started freaking out when the faults came on and car dropped down so I think on the trail it could be OK because we all hear and feel a flat tire differently and react quickly to stop the rig. I think in the last instance my wife just kept traveling until the computer realized something was really amiss.

The next notch rods are a great idea to have where you can just move it to the next position.. I have the regular fixed steel rods.

Also - carrying the air struts, a front and back is a good idea. Or, make sure you change them out after 100-130k miles. Around then, is when the OEM's begin to slowly fail. I have 140k on my rig and have one remaining OEM can to change out, the rear driver. Carrying a spare air strut only seems like a pain in the butt until you lose an air strut on something like devil's staircase in AZ and find yourself limping home on the bumpstops for miles and miles and miles. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[Avslash]

Just another point to clarify a bit. On my rig, at least, only the rears were throwing a fault when the truck was on the bumpstops. The fronts still appeared to be within a range that the computer found acceptable.

 

[racehorse]

Just another point to clarify a bit. On my rig, at least, only the rears were throwing a fault when the truck was on the bumpstops. The fronts still appeared to be within a range that the computer found acceptable.

Good deal - wish you well. I would love larger tires but I squirm thinking of the situations I've encountered and not being able to move the rig anywhere. Just make sure you put a lot of energy into redundant ways of getting off the bumpstops with larger tires.

 

[zelatore]

Just another point to clarify a bit. On my rig, at least, only the rears were throwing a fault when the truck was on the bumpstops. The fronts still appeared to be within a range that the computer found acceptable.

Oddly, on mine it's the fronts that cause the 'out of range' error when on the bumpstops. Seems each truck is a bit different, likely to to the calibration. Early on I would pop the hi-lift into the front and lift until the computer would take over, the I realized I could just use the GAP tool to manually inflate the front bags a bit to get back in range.

 

[Avslash]

Good deal - wish you well. I would love larger tires but I squirm thinking of the situations I've encountered and not being able to move the rig anywhere. Just make sure you put a lot of energy into redundant ways of getting off the bumpstops with larger tires.

Short of a catastrophic airbag failure, I should be mobile. As a last resort, I have the GOE kit with Schrader valves, where I can physically isolate each airbag and air it up using my Viair compressor. Only thing more redundant would be a spare front and rear air spring, which I am not opposed to carrying.

I definitely agree though, that you can create as many problems as you solve with tire size. I think 265/65R18 is the sweet spot for these trucks.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Short of a catastrophic airbag failure, I should be mobile. As a last resort, I have the GOE kit with Schrader valves, where I can physically isolate each airbag and air it up using my Viair compressor. Only thing more redundant would be a spare front and rear air spring, which I am not opposed to carrying.

I definitely agree though, that you can create as many problems as you solve with tire size. I think 265/65R18 is the sweet spot for these trucks.

I've been looking around for the 265/65R18 mud tires of choice cuz I think you are right. Ideally I would love to get a 17" steel wheel to fit but with the rotor size, all my options thus far have gone to the wayside. I found the 17" from Discovery-parts in Germany but they are for the TDV6 diesel which we also got robbed on in America....lol It has smaller rotors so the 17" fits but not on the NAS V8 version with the king sized rotors. Not that we need those big rotors off-road, but the safety of the heavy beast on the road it's paramount.

I'm thinking now of either Goodyear MT or BFG MT for my second set of full wheels and dedicated mud tires for the nasty wet Hawaii conditions when I go out for the weekend.

 

[Avslash]

DSMO2C,

Would you be able to share what washer fluid reservoir bottle Eric at TR recommended?

 

[pgoodrich]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00495UQT2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_p85xvb0QX7S2H


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