Tacoma 110v Bed Plug w/ARB Fridge?

Go4Lo

Explorer
I'm just starting a build on a 2016 Tacoma DCSB and trying to think through where to mount my 37QT ARB Fridge in the bed. I have 2 car seats in the back seat so in the cab is not an option. On the plus side the shorter profile of the 37QT fridge allows it to sit under the tonneau cover so it's protected from the elements and potential thieves. My questions relate to the power source for the fridge in the bed. I'm by no means and electrical guru so I'm not certain whether or not the OEM bed plug provided by Toyota will support the fridge. Anyone have experience with this?

Also the bed plug is only active with the ignition on so I'm curious if there is a "hack" or workaround to have constant power from this plug for the fridge to draw from?

Thanks for any help.
 

jsnow

Adventurer
ARB sells a wiring harness that is heavy duty and a constant power source. I'm sure you could wire your factory plug for constant power, but I have found the factory wiring isn't a heavy enough gauge, and can cause the fridge to think the battery is low. that causes the fridge to shutdown, or run intermittently.
 

Go4Lo

Explorer
ARB sells a wiring harness that is heavy duty and a constant power source. I'm sure you could wire your factory plug for constant power, but I have found the factory wiring isn't a heavy enough gauge, and can cause the fridge to think the battery is low. that causes the fridge to shutdown, or run intermittently.

Thank you for the real world experience response. I used the ARB harness set up in my previous 100 series so I'm familiar with it was just hoping the OEM plug would be sufficient.

What doesn't make sense is there are countless reviews on sites like Amazon of people running an ARB fridge in the back of a mini-van or car for long periods of time with power from just a cigarette lighter with no issues. So if this holds true one would think a dedicated 110v plug would support the fridge...:costumed-smiley-007
 

chmura

Adventurer
Just last week I ran the ARB wiring loom from my battery to the back of my cargo area of my 4runner. I have a factory 12v plug in the back of my 4runner. When I was looking at the plug from behind, those wires are TINY! No way the factory wiring will work at providing the power the ARB fridge needs. The ARB fridge is sensitive to voltage drop so running a higher gauge wire is critical.

It was actually very easy running the wire from the engine bay to the cargo area.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
The big negative to using the 120VAC outlet is that you will waste more power. The truck will route 12 volts to its inverter which has conversion losses, then the AC goes to the fridge. The fridge will convert the AC back to 12 volts DC (more losses) to run the fridge compressor and electronics. Basically you will run the battery down sooner than if the fridge was connected directly to the battery.

Edit: There should be a mod for constant power for the bed's DC plug. Usually it is a wire jumper across the relay that switches power to that bed outlet.
 
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Go4Lo

Explorer
The big negative to using the 120VAC outlet is that you will waste more power. The truck will route 12 volts to its inverter which has conversion losses, then the AC goes to the fridge. The fridge will convert the AC back to 12 volts DC (more losses) to run the fridge compressor and electronics. Basically you will run the battery down sooner than if the fridge was connected directly to the battery.

Edit: There should be a mod for constant power for the bed's DC plug. Usually it is a wire jumper across the relay that switches power to that bed outlet.

That makes sense...thanks for the explanation. I like the plug location in the bed so my best option would be to run a separate 12v plug straight off the battery to the bed for a constant 12v source.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
That makes sense...thanks for the explanation. I like the plug location in the bed so my best option would be to run a separate 12v plug straight off the battery to the bed for a constant 12v source.

I ran 10 gauge wire from my battery to my outlet. Sierra Expeditions sells some good outlets.

http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=12709

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fredgoodsell

Adventurer
The big negative to using the 120VAC outlet is that you will waste more power. The truck will route 12 volts to its inverter which has conversion losses, then the AC goes to the fridge. The fridge will convert the AC back to 12 volts DC (more losses) to run the fridge compressor and electronics. Basically you will run the battery down sooner than if the fridge was connected directly to the battery.

Edit: There should be a mod for constant power for the bed's DC plug. Usually it is a wire jumper across the relay that switches power to that bed outlet.
+1 The inverter outlet in the bed will run the fridge no problem. That's what I've been using while driving while waiting to install some kind of 12v outlet in the bed.
Modifying the stock inverter plug to run with the ignition off would drain your battery much faster than the fridge wired directly to it DC.
 
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I attached the ARB kit in the cubby. It's a nice kit and with my Ark pak and 100 watt panel when stationary I can go weeks even in the AZ desert.
I wouldn't even bother with the plug and stock inverter. I think it's like 100w when the shifter is in any position but drive,
Some people have modified it to run 400w anytime.
Mine is 2011 Tacoma
 
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Cascadian_Matt

Observer
Technically, the ARB fridge is more power efficient off 12V than 110, because it is a native 12V compressor powering the fridge. Just a friendly FYI.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
That makes sense...thanks for the explanation. I like the plug location in the bed so my best option would be to run a separate 12v plug straight off the battery to the bed for a constant 12v source.

Be sure to take a few pix of the install! :Mechanic:
 
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Quote Originally Posted by Go4Lo View Post
That makes sense...thanks for the explanation. I like the plug location in the bed so my best option would be to run a separate 12v plug straight off the battery to the bed for a constant 12v source.

I think so. Mine has a variety of accessories fused through the bussman box. It's nice if you are going to add things down the road.
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