1997 Explorer Build

W0lfpack91

New member
@ExplorerTom if you dont mind my asking. When you did the SAS what was the solution you came up with on the steering box and did any changes have to be made on the transfercase? I have a 1998 explorer and my biggest issue is do i TT and shackle for 33's and keep it low or just bite the bullet and SAS from the start. Like you mentioned earlier you wish you had never done the body lift and i am also wanting to stay away from them as well.

Probbably the biggest issue i keep hearing from people on explorer forums is the transfer case and steering setup.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
My steering uses a 1995 F-150 4wd steering box. It's mounted to the frame using a custom plate.

Body lift if you stay TT and shackle (you almost have to in order clear 33s- I still had to trim some with a 2" body lift). I had no issue with my body lift back then- actually makes getting to things easier under the truck (transfer case fluid changes, for example).

I did swap out my transfer case during the SAS. I have a manual shift 1354 from a 4 cylinder Ranger. I don't think I needed to, I just wanted to get rid of the electric shift case. But I think I would have been just as happy with the brown wire mod. I did it to my Expedition and it's fine.

You will need to lengthen your drive shafts if you SAS.

So my Explorer will go just about anywhere on the trail. It's more capable than the driver. Getting to the trail is now less enjoyable- although it's getting better as I dial in different things (new steering box to replace the junkyard box, a new spring pack for the rear, and stiffer front springs). The TT shackle lift you can comfortably drive across the country. Sure that wouldn't be as capable, but put an ARB locker in the rear, a winch up front (and make sure you have skid plates). That's what I'd if I were to do it again.

So the question you really need to answer for yourself is: do you want to 4wheel or do you want to overland?
All the trips I've taken, could have been done with a TT shackle lifted Explorer.

My recipe for a good overlanding 2nd gen Explorer:
2-3" body lift
Torsion Twist the front
F-150 spring pack for the rear
Ruffstuff heavy-duty axle bolts
Brian Built Fabrication axle bolt skid plates
Front/rear bumpers and sliders (will probably have to be custom- but I don't spend too much time looking for vendors since I already have mine)
Transfercase and gas tank skid plates (factory will work fine)
Regear to 4.56 with some kind of locker for rear (with the limited travel you will need a locker- LSD won't cut it)
33" tires- the 12.5 vs 10.5 width is up to you
Rear storage
Comms
Awning for shade
Eezi-Awn platform rack- it's very versatile (can mount awning to it.....).

Of all the mods I've done to mine, the drawers are still my favorite. And if I wasn't SAS'd and lifted a ton, I could actually see into it better.
 

SexyExy

Observer
Wow ExplorerTom, great write up on the Explorer platform. I know that I'm a little late to the party but I just picked up a 1993 Gen 1 and have a quick question regarding the Truetrac differentials. If doing it all over again would you have stayed with the Truetrac system front and rear or gone with a selectable locker like an ARB or Eaton E-locker?

I'm dealing with steep two track mountain trails that have a lot of rain ruts in them, washouts, etc. I've never used the Truetracs to help control the vehicle coming down steep hills like a selectable locker would. I'm not sure how the Truetracs act coming down steep trails with a lot of loose material. Just wondering what your thoughts are.
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
I’ve been pretty happy with the Truetracs. When it’s not snowy, they just seem to work and I climb whatever I point it up. But I also have a bunch of flex and I don’t think I’ve ever lifted a tire.

In the snow on my old BFG KOs, I wasn’t nearly as successful. But it could have been that those tires weren’t the best in the snow. I didn’t do too much mud either. Now I’m on Cooper STT Pros, but I haven’t been snow wheeling this winter.

I’m not sure I understand the “coming down” question. With the 4.56 gears, the engine does a lot of engine braking and the brakes take care of the rest. Not sure about using a locker on the way down.
 

SexyExy

Observer
I’ve been pretty happy with the Truetracs. When it’s not snowy, they just seem to work and I climb whatever I point it up. But I also have a bunch of flex and I don’t think I’ve ever lifted a tire.

In the snow on my old BFG KOs, I wasn’t nearly as successful. But it could have been that those tires weren’t the best in the snow. I didn’t do too much mud either. Now I’m on Cooper STT Pros, but I haven’t been snow wheeling this winter.

I’m not sure I understand the “coming down” question. With the 4.56 gears, the engine does a lot of engine braking and the brakes take care of the rest. Not sure about using a locker on the way down.

Hi,
Thanks for the input. Regarding the "coming down" comment, when descending a steep trail that has a lot of loose material, some types of differentials will allow a one tire to literally stop rolling when on loose material but the other tire with traction just freewheels. So even if you have really good compression braking due to low gears, you end up gaining speed because the tire that is on the higher traction surface will not hold the vehicle back....it just freewheels.

With lockers engaged, that cannot happen. I hope my description makes sense.

I've watched some trucks with the Truetracs that were heavily loaded and had constant tire contact go up some very steep roads with very loose material. Super impressive....no spinning just smooth traction. But if you do lift a tire, the Truetracs can lose forward momentum with the lifted tire getting all the torque bias and you need to try to engage the brakes to bias the torque to the other tire. Not always easy to do and can further kill your forward momentum.

If I stay with 33" tires and a stock 4.0 V6, do you feel the 4.56's are the right choice?
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
Hi,
Thanks for the input. Regarding the "coming down" comment, when descending a steep trail that has a lot of loose material, some types of differentials will allow a one tire to literally stop rolling when on loose material but the other tire with traction just freewheels. So even if you have really good compression braking due to low gears, you end up gaining speed because the tire that is on the higher traction surface will not hold the vehicle back....it just freewheels.

With lockers engaged, that cannot happen. I hope my description makes sense.

I've watched some trucks with the Truetracs that were heavily loaded and had constant tire contact go up some very steep roads with very loose material. Super impressive....no spinning just smooth traction. But if you do lift a tire, the Truetracs can lose forward momentum with the lifted tire getting all the torque bias and you need to try to engage the brakes to bias the torque to the other tire. Not always easy to do and can further kill your forward momentum.

If I stay with 33" tires and a stock 4.0 V6, do you feel the 4.56's are the right choice?

Yes, lifting a tire with Truetracs makes it act like an open diff unless you left-foot-brake. It’s a fairly small price to pay to the simple and seemless operation the other 99.9% of the time. No compressor issues and air hose routing, no wiring issues...... it just works.

I’ve not experienced the “coming down a loose surface” situation that you described.

And yes, 33s and 4.56 is a great combo. It’s basically equal to factory tires with the factory 4.10 optional ratio. I sorta wish that I have 4.88 with my 35s, but I like the larger pinion diameter of the 4.56.
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
Hi,
Thanks for the input. Regarding the "coming down" comment, when descending a steep trail that has a lot of loose material, some types of differentials will allow a one tire to literally stop rolling when on loose material but the other tire with traction just freewheels. So even if you have really good compression braking due to low gears, you end up gaining speed because the tire that is on the higher traction surface will not hold the vehicle back....it just freewheels.

With lockers engaged, that cannot happen. I hope my description makes sense.

I’ve been thinking about this and something’s not sitting right......

Why would you have a locker on while going downhill? You are not on the throttle at all in the situation you describe. If it’s that steep and loose, you are on the brakes only. With an open diff going down a hill such as this, the brakes control wheel speed, not the diff. If the surface is that loose, the tire’s ability to maintain traction is not dependent on the differential.

Now there are some ABS and traction control systems that do funny things in situations like this. Hopefully you can fully turn those off if you have them. My Explorer is pretty basic- ABS only.
 

SexyExy

Observer
I’ve been thinking about this and something’s not sitting right......

Why would you have a locker on while going downhill? You are not on the throttle at all in the situation you describe. If it’s that steep and loose, you are on the brakes only. With an open diff going down a hill such as this, the brakes control wheel speed, not the diff. If the surface is that loose, the tire’s ability to maintain traction is not dependent on the differential.

Now there are some ABS and traction control systems that do funny things in situations like this. Hopefully you can fully turn those off if you have them. My Explorer is pretty basic- ABS only.

Hi Tom,

In this scenario it is strictly an old school system without ABS traction control. A modern traction control system may actually be superior in the situation described below, but I've never had the balls to take an expensive vehicle down the type of trail I've done with old school (and cheap) vehicles. My trails usually have a vertical embankment on one side, heavy brush or drop off on the other. So if you slide into either side, damage to the vehicle will occur.

When going down very steep type trails with loose surface material, having a very low crawl ratio allows me to stay off the brake and crawl down using engine compression braking. With an open type diff, if a tire with traction that should be holding the vehicle back due to the crawl ratio is freewheeling because the opposite side tire is not rolling and sliding, you will gain speed and have to use your brakes as you described.

Here is the issue when using the brake...sometimes you start to slide downhill and or get sideways and you have to let off the brake and accelerate a little to get straightened up...but now your going too fast so you have to hit the brakes again....tires might start to skid so now you have literally no directional control especially with the front tires skidding. With a locked axle (or axles), no one tire can spin faster than the other on the same axle. You crawl very slowly and if you do start to slide a little sideways a little blip of the throttle can straighten you up and keep control of the car since all tires are rolling at the same speed....no front tire lock up or skidding down hill due to usage of the brakes. I've found that even if the tires a sliding when going down hill, as long as they ares still rolling you have some directional control. It's when they lock up that gravity is your new pilot. If the fronts lock up, you can't steer....if the rears lock up, the back end of the vehicle tries to come around on you.

I agree with you regarding the ARB lockers and air lines, leaks, etc....I do want to avoid that situation.

But, here is what I don't know about the Truetracs.....how do they act when going down hill in low traction conditions and you're only using engine braking and your crawl ratio to keep the speed in check and vehicle under control.
-Do they freewheel under engine braking?
-Do they have to have "throttle" to ramp up the gear engagement?
-I've seen videos of them working in reverse...does engine braking essentially make the Truetrac think that it's going in reverse under power so the "locking" part of the diff works?

I hope I've conveyed what I'm trying to describe....I have an article somewhere that explains what I'm trying to describe much more eloquently than me. I'll keep looking for it.
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
Best way to describe Truetracs is that they are invisible. They are there when you need them and gone when you don’t.

It sounds like you are describing a very unique and rare situation. I’ve gone down a trail in CO called Red Cone. It has a grade of over 30% on some loose shale. 30% grade is too much for my crawl ratio and engine compression to restrain, so I’m also on the brakes. I’ve done this trail 10 times- a couple with the factory diff and most of them with the Truetracs. Can’t say that I’ve noticed a difference. It goes down nice and slow and straight. Sure it slips here and there, but it’s not a one way ticket off the edge if it does. I slide 6-8 inches, maybe 12 and it stops. And I guess I don’t crawl down many other things without the brakes.

I haven’t done too much snow wheeling or mudding. Perhaps I could replicate the condition you describe in those conditions. Most of the trails I’m on are dry and rocky- hence The Rocky Mountains. And
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
I’ve been meaning to mount this lightbar that I had on my Expedition on my Explorer. I mounted it straight to the roof sheet metal (benefit of having an older vehicle!). And while the headliner was out, I added a bunch of Noico sound deadening. I also used this stuff on my Expedition and it worked well. The roof no longer sounds like a snare drum. I also added some Reflectix (not pictured) for heat insulation.

The next stage I’ll take out the seats and carpet and add the Noico and Reflectix to the floorpan. And then the doors. I’m hoping it’ll help quiet down the interior and make it more pleasant for longer trips- especially those road sections.

I’ve got a couple more projects to get buttoned up before it’s ready to hit the road and trails again.
 

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ExplorerTom

Explorer
The flex on my Explorer since the SAS has been great. But sometimes a little too great: the coil spring comes out either partially or completely. It’s not fun when it happens. In an effort to solve that, I added some limit straps.
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And to test them out, I found a nearby industrial complex with some nice concrete to get my mall crawl on.

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I think that should work.
 

ExplorerTom

Explorer
This isn’t vehicle specific, but I hated my Oztent bag. Who’s the joker that spec’d out the bag to be a gnat’s ass bigger than the tent itself? Sometimes I could get it in the bag with relative ease. Other times I wanted to drag it back to town behind my truck. And the years of use were starting to show: the zipper pull was broken and the bag itself had a small hole.

Enter the Drifta bag from Australia. The exchange rate is in our favor right now. I paid $152 shipped for it.

I haven’t actually used it yet thanks to this virus going around, but I’m super impressed. I transferred the tent to the Drifta bag in my driveway. So easy to put in and zip up. The bag opens up on 3 sides and has some seatbelt style straps to cinch it down. The zippers are sealed to fight off highway driven rain. The zipper itself runs very smooth. Can’t wait to use it.

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