El Camaleon Azul. an '08 V8 4x4 T4R built to go.....

zidaro

Explorer
The goodies Ive been using to cleanup/treat the rust
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Here's what's going in my calipers. Akebono pads, after plenty of research I think these are best for a multi use runner

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ss
 

zidaro

Explorer
Pics of the frame after wire wheeling and flap disking the hell outta it using an angle grinder, wipe down with etoh, and a couple coats of the but rust inhibitor

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Came out very clean so far
 

zidaro

Explorer
I would have considered that thing "rust free" ha ha ha. Looks great!

-jorge

That would be my wicked OCD getting the best of me! It totally freaks me out to even have surface rust, not to mention flaking rust patties and deeper penetration. Cant handle it. Poor guy i bought it from had to deal with me asking over and over again how bad certain areas of rust are.
It always astonishes me when I'm cruising the Forums how bad some cases of Rust are on some rigs. Rotten frames. This one is no case for concern when compared!
 

zidaro

Explorer
Been getting pissed at the rear hatch not lifting all the way, sat about 6" low and was bumping my head on it or having to lift it by hand! Ugh!! Even annoying when its sitting in my driveway on jack stands.
Saw the solution on another forum, thanks @tmcintosh3

Armstrong hatch lift struts #6107 bought em off Amazon. Perfect fit, simple install. I thought i was going to have to play with the little ball/clip joint, but these even came with brackets for both ends. SIMPLE does not get any simpler.
Lifts quicker and to the top, time will tell if it stands the test

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reused the gasket on the doorframe
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STOKED!
 

zidaro

Explorer
Cleaned up the frame rust and got a good coat of primer and top coat paint on the frame and rear axle.
In the process of reassembly. Taking it slow and cleaning it up as i go.
Rear is first.
Heres the cleanup:

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slipped a set of daystar bumps i had laying around, much better shape than the clapped out OEMS that were on it. These were made for the 1st ten runners running leafs, but fit perfect.

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one particular nasty rusted out area, cleaned it up best i could, but still was covered. Rust Converter did its job

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clean n free of da nasty

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welded in a set of TrailWorxFab HD Upper rear control arm brackets, made for the FJ but fit just fine. i trimmed them up a bit since I'm welding them in.
Bomber, should hold up to some abuse.

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Diff. breather raised up out of harms way, mostly :)
Crown Performance brakelines all around. SS and extended where needed

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Diagrams of brake line routing and Parking brake assembly, if needed for reference :)

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should have the rear back together tomorrow, if kids, puppies, or other responsibilities don't get in the way!!
 

zidaro

Explorer
Picked up a set of replacement Prothane rear swaybar bushings.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387ZSXG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Found them posted in another thread where it was believed to be a direct swap using the stock brackets and these bushings, 21mm hole.
They are not. ;(
different width and diameter. Hole matches, but thats it. They do sell a kit with a new bracket too, not sure if that fits or not, next time.

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was able to mash them in there anyway. Figure for the $12 i paid, i could mash them in, see if they work. Likely they will tear themselves up and get spit out. Whatever. Can always slip the old rubber POS back in.

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Installed the rear ATL rotors, 4th gen.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VGUYR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5th gen Centric Calipers from Rockauto, coated with the Duplicator caliper paint.
Akebono ceramic pads
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQ0O7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Applied mandatory copper anti-seize to the hub to prevent a rotor frozen on later. Adjusted the parking brakes back to function, and hooked up the brakelines.
still need to get the front done before i can bleed the lines.
Looks nice, hope it stops :)

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zidaro

Explorer
with the brakes reassembled, i spent the rest of the day attaching control arms and slipping in the springs.
ICON LCAs, Front Range Off Road UCAs and PanHard, Toytec RCC2.0HD springs, ICON 2.5 RR shocks.

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Hacked off the resonator for a side exit exhaust. May slip a tip on later depending.
The exhaust will need some type of bracing near the end as well, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. As it sits it has quite a bit of bounce to it and will strike the frame with any serious fun going on.

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Adjustable swaybar links by @MStudt on T4R- sharp!

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still need to bleed the brakes and solidly mount the shock reservoirs

Also picked up an RCI steel gas tank skid on a group buy deal. Nice big beefy plate of steel, install went very smooth as a one man job.

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Slipped on the rear tires one dropped her on the ground so i feel like its getting closer to driving again :)

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now to dig into that front!!
 

zidaro

Explorer
got a little frame prep done for the front. couple of the alignment tabs were pretty beat up, almost like the arm was in a front end accident and they were torn. Driver side was only issue. But not an issue anymore.

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ran into some issues with the psgr. side front control arm. cam bolts seized, had to cut the bolt sleeve off the front bushing to remove the arm. sleeve is bonded in the bushing.
PN# 48409-60020
might have to replace the bushing too, at $60, if i can't get the sleeve to pop out.

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zidaro

Explorer
Dang, that's a lot of work!

Why the ceramic brake pads? My understanding is that these will result in worse stopping power on the street, as they're meant for extreme use/heat on the track.

From what I could find. The options for the runner would be between sintered or ceramic for performance, low warpage, low dust, low wear. Sintered wins in mud. But I don't really see a lot of mud, I see desert, mtn roads, dusty rocky trails, long steep downhills.
My understanding is Ceramic pads have:
extremely quiet,
exceptional braking performance over a wide range of conditions
extreme stopping power when "cold" – right out of the driveway, or "hot" – after miles of mountain highway
fast thermal recovery heat resistant- Low operating temperatures reduce rotor wear and risk of deformation or warping, less fade
Extremely quiet – no brake "grind" noise and pad "squeal".
Excellent "cold morning" braking performance – no "warm-up" required as with carbon/graphite or sintered
Smooth, progressive and controlled braking
Increased rotor life – reduced rotor wear compared to sintered
Long pad life
Low-dust

But I'm open to options. What do you run?
 

rickashay

Explorer
Well well, you sure are taking your time with this build. lol

I like what I see. Epic build and the blue is awesome!
 

zidaro

Explorer
Well well, you sure are taking your time with this build. lol

I like what I see. Epic build and the blue is awesome!

Joking or not, i feel like I'm taking forever to get this thing back on wheels! Started peeling it apart, thinking i was just going to slap on a basic, decent little suspension. Every bolt i break free leads me down a small path of mild maintenance, repair, or replace (always with something better ;) ). So, here i am.


Stay TUNED!!!!!
 

zidaro

Explorer
Couple reference pics for front end orientation. I always seem to have a hard time finding pics of how things are oriented in assembly. And i forget how i took them apart :)
Whether anyone else follows this super awesome thread or not, atleast I DO!!

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oring seal at rear of bearing/hub assembly mating to spindle

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