2014 Silverado Daily Driver and Camping Build

[Joronimo]

Hey everyone, I'm fairly new to the site and have enjoyed reading all the build and travel posts. I got a new 2014 Silverado 1500 4x4 in June of 2014, ordered exactly what I wanted and couldn't be happier. I wanted to start a build thread mainly for me to keep a record of what I am doing to the truck but hopefully other enjoy it as well. This will be a very slow process since I work full time and go to grad school at night but maybe this will be a good excuse to order more parts and take the truck out.

Previously completed modifications.

First things I did were add a bug deflector, removed the lower air dam, bed liner and side steps. Bug deflector is simple, and I kept scrapping the air dam on the ground in town so that came off pretty quick. Next was a Linex bed liner which has been holding up very well, it has faded a bit but I kind of expected that. It took forever to find a good set of steps, I wanted wheel to wheel steel boards that would provide a little protection from rocks and sticks. Apparently no body else wants that because it doesn't exist. I hate the N-Fab style with the loops. I eventually decided on go industries Diamond Tread Steps even though they weren't wheel to wheel. These are really nice, however the powder coat sucks and they are already starting to rust. I'm going to get them Linex-ed soon to fix that.

Next was a set of Weather Tech window vents, I was kind of under impressed with these. They look great and work good if you just barely crack the window. Any more then an inch and they start to let in the rain. In south Louisiana, it rains a lot so that is annoying but I would probably get them again.

I specifically didn't get a Z71 since I wanted the Max Trailering package but that left my front end sitting really low. I finally got a leveling kit and installed it today. I should have taken more picture during the process but I didn't. The kit was a no name brand from amazon but was 6061 Aluminum not composite like some of the others and it was only 40 bucks. That should have been my first sign. Got the wheels and tires off and started the disassembly. I knew to leave the nut on the ball joints until the "freeze" was broken but apparently like 2 threads is all that is needed, we left them about a full nuts worth and it was a pain to get to rest of the way off. But we did. Then on assembly, we put the bolts heads down like the factory and every other kit I read thru, but after getting everything together we learned that the bolts contact the axle at full droop. The instructions didn't mention a right or wrong way so we assumed do it like the factory. Customer service basically told me I should have known, so annoying. But after we got that fixed the sway bar end link was re-installed (didn't need to come off) and the instructions I read said 50 ft-lbs torque. That was enough to strip out the cheap factory nut. So now will have new end links too! After 2 hours on the right side, we moved to the left and had it done in 20 minutes since we knew all the short cuts (leave sway bar alone, jack and pry, tighten and your done).

Monday will see new end links and everything will get a final torque.

It does look good, gained over 2-1/4" at the wheel wells and over 4 at the front bumper.

Before


After


I got a bunch more projects, just need to find the time and money. Hopefully you enjoy and let me know what you think!

Thanks

 

[roeshow24]

Keep up the good work. I'm excited to see the build. I am planning a build for my 15. Probably going to steal some of your ideas 😁

 

[Joronimo]

Back At It

Its been a while since I posted anything but I finally got the first stage of my electrical system installed. I wanted to get the base work laid for most of my future mods since I hate how shoty it can end up adding pieces one at a time. I started all this after finding this article on tacoma world (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/). I started out planning to do this but the bussman was expensive and I figured with good pre-planning i could get the same result. I was lazy and didn't take pictures as I went but hopefully its still helpful to someone.

I started out building the switch box from a piece aluminum square tube and cut out a hole for the face plate a back access hole, then made side covers. All really simple using a drill and 1/2" x18" belt sander from harbor freight.



The next step was the fuse box and I chose a Blue Sea 12 circuit with negative bus to make sure I had plenty of room and easy access to ground. Its mounted on a plate of aluminum that covers the second battery tray. I plan to add a dual battery system later so I tried to make sure that this wont block that. I think it should still fit underneath. I got longer bolts for the fender braces and a spacer drop it low enough to clear the hood. Then just some bracing to keep it tight.



There are 6 switches so I wanted a relay for each plus one that is tied to the ignition on for the truck. This ignition relay is for the smaller fuse block. This way I can have 6 circuits that are only on in the Retained Accessory Mode of the truck. Everything is wired up ready to go for future upgrades, all I need is to connect to the hot side of the relay and add a fuse.



I didn't want to splice into a wire or use a fuse tap if I could avoid it for the RAP signal to the relay. I searched allover for a good place to tap in, both in the truck and online. I got lucky when I was sitting in the parking lot. I noticed number 49 on the drivers side fuse panel is a 1/4" male blade that is on in RAP mode. Cant believe it was that easy. Added an in line fuse and had it working. You can see the inline fusee on top and the red wire connects to the 1/4" blade.




Last step was connecting to the battery. I went with 4 gauge battery cable which is over kill for this but will work when i do my dual battery. It runs thru a Blue Sea 50 Amp fuse and across an aluminum bar I added to eventually hold a Blue Sea solenoid and act a mounting structure for other accessories. I dont plan to sell the truck but I still cant bring myself to drill into it.



I have it set up so that the lower LED is always on when the key is but the switches work and the upper LED will still light up when the switch is on. Now I just need to figure out why one of my upper LEDs doesn't work and add stuff for all of these to turn on.




If anyone wants more detailed info, let me know. And thanks for checking this out!