BC to Baja 2009

rfoubi

Observer
So this is a blast from the past, from the trip that got me really hooked on this lifestyle. I'd been on many trips before this, but this was the first where we had no real itinerary or time constraints, just a trusty old VW van and the desire to head south. This is obviously written seven (wow) years later, and I am a bit fuzzy on the details. Here is the map for those that like that sort of data:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1V52Ql5OGbcDMG_rxU7fUazhXCdg&usp=sharing

This was march to may 2009, and my wife (then girlfriend) had just finished our first winter ski bumming in Rossland BC, and were keen to get some sun before we had to be back to work as geologists in northern canada for the summer field season. I had spent the winter also tuning up and painting my 1987 volkswagen vanagon and readying it for the trip. It has changed alot since then, but at the time it had the stock (91hp) water cooled 4 banger, with no real mods except big mud tires and some electronic goodies. Ah, the good old days! My parents bought this van new, and I have been riding in it since I was 2. So lets say it has no shortage of sentimental value.

Anyway, lets get started.



Here she sits, freshly painted in my garage by me with no experience, and <$200 materials (interlux brightside boat paint rolled on).

Of course, the day we go to leave, with bikes and surfboards strapped on, it snows!



Well lucky for us we are going skiing first. We head south, on a marathon drive to jackson wy (1100+km). This would be epic enough, but it was freezing slush, I was solo (wife was in the other car with our friend), and in my rush to get the van ready, i bumped some wires loose, and I had no stereo :Wow1:




Oh, and I got stuck in 3rd gear for the last 200km. And teton pass was closed, and it was a blizzard. Lets just say it was a white knuckle drive, and We were pretty glad to show up in Jackson at 2am. We went to bed, and miraculously woke up without alarms at 7am. 55cm (22 inches) overnight! Holy ****, here we go! What a way to start the trip.









Anyway, we stuck around for a few days, toured the pass, and then parted ways with our friend. She took all our ski gear with her, so we didnt have to haul it all down to mexico. And then we were off, in 3rd gear only, to limp to SLC. The pass west of Bear Lake was the only place we ran into problems, and at one point we sputtered out going up the hill without enough speed. I had to pull a quick u turn, go back down, and then come at it again with speed. 2nd try is the charm, and we continue (again white knuckle) into salt lake. must have been 5-6 hours in 3rd, with some sketchy gas stops.

Anyway lucky for us, we found a vw mechanic, and he just bled the clutch, and we were fine! Shows how little i knew mechanically back then that I didnt even think to try that. Oh well, a couple hours later we were on our way and feeling like it was going to be a stressful trip with the old bus. Though like every other trip, soon you forget about your vehicle issues and continue with blind faith!



Ah, the open road... next stop moab, UT. I think I'm starting to ramble here, so Ill try and stay on point!

nice free camping in the desert scrubland

Gist of the story, it was cold and windy, but we had fun, rode bikes, climbed, and then hit the open road.







dead horse point


South to the real wide open spaces:


The classic monument valley shot we all know and love. As cliche as it is, there is nothing quite like the 4 corners area to really get the nostalgic, romantic, unfettered and exhilirating road trip feelings. This is what all of us on this forum live for. The open road, just a map and full tank of gas, and some dreams

Day or two spent in Canyon de Chelley, some cool cliff dwellings and stuff, but not great weather or light for photos unfortunately.




South, through arizona (petrified forest)




Finally, its warming up, and we are thawing out after a long Canadian winter. Saguaros! Now we are starting to feel like we are travelling further afield.


Ocotillo


Now, resupply, gas up, and hit Nogales, to cross into Mexico:

Part 2 Coming Soon!
 

rfoubi

Observer
Part 2:

So, without further ado, we cross the border into mexico:

We had driven a rental car from San Diego into mexico in 2007, so although far from Mexico Vets, we at least had a bit of an idea what to expect, and knew enough to just relax and enjoy the ride!

Though of course we still made the classic gringo mistake of getting distracted by carne asada stands and cervezas and then not realizing its a long drive to your destination, and the sun is rapidly sinking. Somehow the canadian in me always thinks, its warm and sunny, therefore its summer, therefore the sun goes down at 10pm. Wrong! Anyway we dodged some cows, a couple drunks with no headlights, and rolled into Hermosillo vowing to get up early and not drive at night again.

The next morning, we wake early (though not so early as to waste our luxurious hotel night after many nights in the van). and head the 300 or so km to creel. Should be at most 4-5 hours right?


Turns out this is the windiest road ever, and the 300km took us 2 days of driving all day. Mostly 2nd gear, slow corners, like 20km hairpins for hours on end. Well it was scenic, but we ended up having to camp in a field,

which were a bit apprehensive about, but of course it was fine, and the views were pretty good.


You cant see it, but the road traverses the mountain in the distance, and they dont have any blasting/filling or tunnels, the road just follows topography.



Anyway we hit some spectacular canyon country and checked out la cascada de baseasachi. This would be spectacular in rainy season with more than a trickle of water!



the trusty and dusty bus

start to get up into real cool ponderosa pine forests, and it feels like the interior of BC (kamloops) or perhaps lake tahoe.


Neat old rock buildings, and this is where the indigenous Raramuri people live https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rar%C3%A1muri_people

Centuries old footpaths make for good mountain biking!





modern meets timeless in the valley of the frogs.


Beatiful!

We really liked it in the Creel area (you may recognize this as the entry point (top) of the copper canyon railway if anyone has heard of that.... i have seen some trip reports of driving the gravel roads all the way down the canyon... that would be a trip!). Mountain biking, visiting markets, renting scooters and ripping around in the country roads, checking out waterfalls, etc. It was worth the 2 day drive


dont look down


another one that would be great on a rainy day!


Depending on who you ask, this is either the "valley of the monks" or the "valley of the erect penises" I see why the postcards chose the first moniker. Very cool spot, we spent hours wandering around. Blew a tire on one of our mopeds on the way back, so luckily we had each rented one and we could double back with no worries

This was an amazing campsite, except for the low hanging tree branches. :Wow1: Lets just say that I may have hit one with the bikes on the roof, knocked the thule bars off, reversed as the branch caught going the other direction, and then proceeded to scrape the bikes back across the other way! Definitely needed a cerveza after that!

It was worth it though, as this was our beer drinking view!



gotta love rural mexico!



Anyway, back down some really windy roads that we were expecting this time, and this time when it got dark we found a really cool small town to spend the night in. We just asked around the main square, and since there was no hotel, we were able to just park our van in the square for the night. It was pretty fun cooking dinner on the coleman and setting up our bed while all of the villagers sat around and watched us!

Part 3 to come: The Baja!
 

rfoubi

Observer
Part 3: Baja

After we made it out of the mountains, we were rolling through the funnily named town of Topolobampo, and had our first run in with La Mordida. got pulled over for going too fast (no speed limit sign, we were going max 50km/h) Oh yeah and since its semana santa, no police station is open, so you gotta pay cash, now, gringos. What did I say earlier about knowing enough to just enjoy the ride? We grumbled and paid $20 USD and considered it a toll... wasnt worth messing around and missing our ferry:



Long story short, you cant sleep in your vehicle on the ferry, and it was going to be a long 12 hour night sitting in upright chairs with screaming ninos everywhere! Luckily, karma caught up with us. In the ferry lineup, I had helped a guy fix his radiator in his minivan, (after some very confusing spanglish but very fun wrenching) and then jump started his rig so he could get on the ferry. I thought that was the end of it, and as we were grumbling and settling in for the long overnight ferry ride, this guy came along and asked if we wanted to stay in his stateroom. A quick glance at each other and an unspoken, **** it, Ive got a good feeling about this guy, and we are in a 4 berthed, air conditioned, glorious stateroom! Instantly passed out and awoke refreshed and unmolested in the morning!



Here is the guy's van, it rolled off without power since his battery went flat. WIth the soldiers standing around with big guns, we werent about to hold up traffic and help him again. Muchas gracias though amigo!

So feeling our faith in human kindness and mexico restored, we did the quick drive to La Paz (pretty cool, somewhat cosmopolitan city of ~200 thousand people) and checked into a hotel for some much needed r and r. Beach, beer, bars, a quick taste of the only part of mexican life that most gringos experience.



Oh yeah, and kayaked in the bay. very cool. (no kayak rentals as of 2015, bummer! it was the highlight of baja trips in later years)


mangroves

South to cabo pulmo, a neat off the beaten path marine park with surprisingly good snorkleing right off the beach


the baja washboard that you everyone who has been down the peninsula knows. We spent a couple days in cabo pulmo, and then made the trek over to Cabo San Lucas.


beatiful waves on the east cape




todos santos. We did make a quick stop in Cabo San Lucas, which despite its tourist gong show and development, does have some nice beaches and snorkleing, and it certainly worth a stop.

Once in todos, we checked out some of the local surf breaks. (we have since been back many times, such a great spot)


I feel like we spent a lot more time around there, but the next photos i can find are up in Loreto. Anyway, i guess thats where we ended up:





neat little town


After some food and touristing about, we headed north again.



These guys were going a little faster than us!


We drove a while through the nice, but eventually monotonous interior baja scenery of cordon cacti and scrub. A bit of a long afternoon, some more night driving (how quickly we forget) and then we pull in to playa coyote after dark. Find a spot to park, cook, and go to bed. This is what we wake up to the next morning:


back hatch view:


front view


This is the strip of sand. What an amazing place! Most memorable campsite of the trip for sure

Part 4 Coming
 

rfoubi

Observer
Part 4: Baja Norte and back into the USA

Although we felt like we could stay on the beach for days, we were anxious to keep moving and keep exploring. We did the long haul up to Guerrero Negro, which sits roughly half way down baja. Not much to say about the town, farm/fishing town, rural, nothing special, but some cool stuff nearby. We drove out to this old abandoned salt loading wharf, which initially looked like a good place for narcotrafficantes to dump bodies, and we almost turned around, but then we realized it was just people out fishing and picknicking. Really cool old buildings, and the "sand dunes" are actually all made of salt crystals. There were salt flats all around, and I guess they extract/mine it somehow.





From here, we bumped out a dirt road to a surf spot known as the wall. Near rosarito, or el rosario, or something like that. It was confusing at the time, and even more confusing now! Beautiful spot all to ourselves, cobbly point break that feels like you are on the moon. Just miles and miles of desert stretching east, and the massive pacific ocean rolling west all the way to asia. Really makes you appreciate the scale of the world. Unfortunately the surf was amazingly flat, and the whole time we were there it was at most ankle to knee high. Try as we might, we got zero rides.


amazing camp sites though


beach art

cool weird desert trees, somewhere in the middle of the baja peninsula. With surf flat as a pancake, we decided it wasnt worth dawdling in baja much longer, and we headed north to california.


I will keep it brief from here, as from now on we travelled the roads you guys are all well familiar with:

Including:

Joshua tree



en route to vegas



welcome to vegas! Although a shock to the system after 4 weeks in the desert and mostly small towns, we secretly love this place, and we enjoyed our guilty pleasures of drinking in public and roaming around with the circus.

Quick hoover dam (this bridge is done now)

red rocks for some climbing


death valley





We headed up to sacramento, and then suffered our only real breakdown on the whole trip. We had been leaking oil at an increasing rate, eventually having to add a litre every time we gassed up. I knew it was leaking from the oil pressure sensor, and I tried to tighten it while at a gas station. Literally just touched it with the socket, and it popped out, pouring the entire contents of the engine oil all over the ground. Wow, that could have been bad if the engine had been running. Anyway, since as true VW van owners we have premium AAA, we just got towed to a shop, used our free trip interruption coverage, and got a hotel room and rental car while a shop worked on the van.


day trip to san fran.


A day later, we were back on the road again in the van, heading north along the coast

Its amazing how quick it gets rural/wilderness so close to the bay area.

We blasted up the coast to oregon, some quick surf stops and sand dune camping




And with that, we were headed back north to Canada. Happy to be home, but already thinking of the next adventure. Overall an amazing trip, and a great experience. I wish I had written the trip report at the time, but thanks for reading anyway. Sorry its kind of choppy, vague, and all over the place! I figured it was still good to get it out there, as I certainly appreciate everyone's trip reports, and I wish people would post more! Heres to getting lost, and just getting out there. See you on the road!
 

boll_rig

Adventurer
Looks like an incredible trip! Nothing beats the entire west coast loop from bc to mexico! Just always too much to do no matter if its 5 days or 5 weeks.
 

rickashay

Explorer
Awesome report. Seems like driving an older character vehicle just makes the trip that much better.

I am from Nelson BC (originally)... Rossland rules! Although I can't decide if I like Red or Whitewater more, they are both too good! haha My wife and I will be doing a similar trip to this next year. Possibly starting in the Yukon and heading south.

Thanks for the inspiration!
 

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