Jeep WK CRD Overland Nomad Expedition Build: Lolita

Charles R

Adventurer
I removed all those rear interior trim panels. I've found that there's enough depth behind them to mount an H8 agm battery right under the rearmost passenger glass, and it would not protrude out past the liftgate opening.

IMG_0658.jpg

IMG_0657.jpg

For me, I'm going to re-panel all of the rear area to make for a better "camper". The stock panels make the back pretty... But they waste a ton of space. Both width, and a few inches of height.
 
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Kosmo

Adventurer
Offroad Testing. Snow

With a recent heavy snowstorm I was given the opportunity to see what the Jeep could pull, tow and handle in snow, not that I plan on seeing much snow on Expedition trip.

Anyway a small 24 passenger Vicinity bus had gone sideways into a parked car on a slight ascent in 8 - 12 inches of snow. After numerous attempts to shovel, push, load people onto the bus, I asked the driver if he had tow hooks. We checked, and I offered to tow him out. The police officer kind of laughed thinking it wouldn't do much, but considering there were 12 cars backed up behind the bus, and snow was still coming down heavy, another foot within a few hours, we tried. In 4 low with all three diffs locked it worked, and pulled 200 feet to another street, and then pulled it across deeper snow onto powered rad so he could make his way back to depot. Tires were at 20 psi, Cooper Discoverer A/TW, and it was a matter of managing wheel spin and keeping revs low, but it worked. Considering the bus weighed 20'282 pounds dry, I was suitably impressed, and less concerned about my litmus test of being able to get around Baja sand with my trailer.

http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light-Truck/Discoverer-A-TW.aspx
 

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Kosmo

Adventurer
I removed all those rear interior trim panels. I've found that there's enough depth behind them to mount an H8 agm battery right under the rearmost passenger glass, and it would not protrude out past the lift-gate opening.

For me, I'm going to re-panel all of the rear area to make for a better "camper". The stock panels make the back pretty... But they waste a ton of space. Both width, and a few inches of height.

Thanks, I am going to investigate that space. Will have to see if it will hold an Optima Yellowtop, which looks like it will at first glance compared to H8 specs.

SPECS
Model: D34/78
Weight: 43.5 lb
C20 Capacity: 55 Ah
Post Type: Dual SAE/GM
CCA: 750 Amp
Width: 6.94 in
Length: 10.06 in
Height: 7.88 in

One guy on Jeepforum has mounted his behind the rear driver's side wheel, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/dual-battery-3556186/ under the floor.
battery-5.jpg
I am a little concerned about smashing it on trails to be honest; but he does have a fair point about a battery in the cabin area.

How do you like your AGM? How long you had it? I hear mixed reviews about Optima, but they have good technology, and part of Johnson Controls.
 
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jeepgc

Adventurer
With a recent heavy snowstorm I was given the opportunity to see what the Jeep could pull, tow and handle in snow, not that I plan on seeing much snow on Expedition trip.

Anyway a small 24 passenger Vicinity bus had gone sideways into a parked car on a slight ascent in 8 - 12 inches of snow. After numerous attempts to shovel, push, load people onto the bus, I asked the driver if he had tow hooks. We checked, and I offered to tow him out. The police officer kind of laughed thinking it wouldn't do much, but considering there were 12 cars backed up behind the bus, and snow was still coming down heavy, another foot within a few hours, we tried. In 4 low with all three diffs locked it worked, and pulled 200 feet to another street, and then pulled it across deeper snow onto powered rad so he could make his way back to depot. Tires were at 20 psi, Cooper Discoverer A/TW, and it was a matter of managing wheel spin and keeping revs low, but it worked. Considering the bus weighed 20'282 pounds dry, I was suitably impressed, and less concerned about my litmus test of being able to get around Baja sand with my trailer.

http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light-Truck/Discoverer-A-TW.aspx
Fantastic, good driving. Glad to see your plans coming together.
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
I removed all those rear interior trim panels. I've found that there's enough depth behind them to mount an H8 agm battery right under the rearmost passenger glass, and it would not protrude out past the liftgate opening.

View attachment 389784


For me, I'm going to re-panel all of the rear area to make for a better "camper". The stock panels make the back pretty... But they waste a ton of space. Both width, and a few inches of height.

Did you relocate that little black Satelite GPS box with the wires coming out of it? Mine is located behind where your battery is located.
 

AggieOE

Trying to escape the city
With a recent heavy snowstorm I was given the opportunity to see what the Jeep could pull, tow and handle in snow, not that I plan on seeing much snow on Expedition trip.

Anyway a small 24 passenger Vicinity bus had gone sideways into a parked car on a slight ascent in 8 - 12 inches of snow. After numerous attempts to shovel, push, load people onto the bus, I asked the driver if he had tow hooks. We checked, and I offered to tow him out. The police officer kind of laughed thinking it wouldn't do much, but considering there were 12 cars backed up behind the bus, and snow was still coming down heavy, another foot within a few hours, we tried. In 4 low with all three diffs locked it worked, and pulled 200 feet to another street, and then pulled it across deeper snow onto powered rad so he could make his way back to depot. Tires were at 20 psi, Cooper Discoverer A/TW, and it was a matter of managing wheel spin and keeping revs low, but it worked. Considering the bus weighed 20'282 pounds dry, I was suitably impressed, and less concerned about my litmus test of being able to get around Baja sand with my trailer.

http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light-Truck/Discoverer-A-TW.aspx

Now that is seriously awesome!
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
@SSF556

Switching to 4 Low in the QD II not only activates the solenoid in the front and rear differential locking driver's and passenger's side wheels together, it also locks front and rear driveshafts together through the central locking differential so there is a 50/50 (I think) split of power at all times. Found a written explanation on wikipedia. "In "4-Lo" mode, the input shaft drives through a 2.72:1 reduction planetary gear set and the front and rear axles are locked together through the clutch pack. This same NV247 transfer case is the foundation for the Quadra-Drive system described below."
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Just had a look at your profile and saw your WK has QT II? I guess it has the same central locking diff function in 4 low, but yours uses BTCS Brake Traction Control system. I guess BTCS would not help much in a towing situation.
 
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Kosmo

Adventurer
Rear Storage Build, progress

So the rear storage build has been going slow. Once I actually make a decision cutting, screwing and gluing goes relatively fast. I am stuck with knowing that no matter how much thought I put into the design, more and better ideas will come up later. The design is also a bit complicated because I am allowing for two different fridge sizes and designs without knowing which if any fridge I will actually want. I am leaving space for an Isotherme Webasto CR 36 in the lower compartment drawer, but need to be able to fit my current el-cheapo fridge on the top.

Webasto CR 36.jpg

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/...tors/small-fridges-36-49-l/cruise-36-classic/

I have had several different design features go through my head, but after purchasing 500 lb lock in lock out drawer slides for more than a pretty penny, I started rethinking just having two small drawers 30" long and 18" wide. Seeing these drawers would never have more than a 100 lbs in them, I am now thinking to just use one big drawer. on the bottom, and debating whether or not to have a slide-out table that the el-cheapo fridge and toolbox sit on.

I have decided on a spot for the battery, and built a temporary shelf for the battery until I figure out my wiring and control panel location. You can see it on the bottom right, just behind the passenger rear wheel-well.

Space on the left fits my Viair compressor. No tank in the build as of yet, but almost bought one last week, but have too many variables at the moment.

IMG_4718.jpg
One interesting Jeep WK specific decision I made was to pull plastic out in order to fit in the compartment and utilize the metal hold down slots/tabs located just behind the rear seats. This is glued and screwed 1/2" Marine grade plywood, so it should hold unless we invert, in which case there will be a steel divider to the passenger area. I may upgrade this mechanism, but for now it is proof of concept, and will stop box jumping during testing.
IMG_4731.jpg

I made engineered wood i-beams out of the same wood for lightness, strength, and to keep it all non swelling marine grade wood.

IMG_4722.jpgIMG_4733.jpgIMG_4719.jpg

Here you can see a couple cargo configuration options I am considering. This fridge vents out the top, so it has pretty low clearance already.

N.B. The center divider is two pieces laminated MG plywood, but it is only there for mock up. It is not glued or screwed, and will likely go away and be replaced by one big lower drawer. I will likely have to work out some sort of load bearing divider in the middle of the drawer.

The question is whether it is worth it to put the tool chest and fridge on a sliding panel. I already have the drawer slides.
IMG_4727.jpgIMG_4775.jpg
 
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SSF556

SE Expedition Society
Kosmo one of the misconseptions about QD2 is that both front and rear axles "lock". QD2 utilizes a Electronic Limited Slip, which very quickly locks and unlocks the diffs both front and rear as traction is lost and gained. So there is no permanent locking of the front and rear with QD2. The only way to get a true front and rear locking is to add an aftermarket locker...ie ARB, Detroit etc or buy a Wrangler Rubicon, which locks front and rear with the push of a button. Now the transfer case in both QD2 and QT2 locks the front and rear axles together and "transfers" power as needed. That all being said QD2 is a very efficient system and one of the best out there. Brake Controlled traction is effective, but not as quick as lockers or ELSD...that is why I added an ARB rear air locker. Now if ARB would only make a front air locker and then we could lock front, transfer and rear.
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
Kosmo one of the misconceptions about QD2 .

PM'd you on this.

This is a pretty good look at how the system operates. Might add these to mine someday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2o_JDuSJBg

Most written accounts (http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_4x4.htm#QDII) and comparisons of the different Jeep 4x4 systems concentrate on what it can do on the road since this is the main market. If you have driven a QD II in 4 low you would see, especially when on dry pavement, as the automatic system does not function as it does in high range.

If you look at the link above it states: "4 LOW Four Wheel Drive Low Range - Low speed 4 wheel drive. Locks the front and rear driveshafts together. Forces the front and rear wheels to rotate at the same speed. Additional traction and maximum pulling power for loose, slippery road surfaces only. Do not exceed 25 mph (40 km/h)."

Although not specifically stating that it locks the front and rear diffs, I believe it infers this when it states, "Forces the front and rear wheels to rotate at the same speed"

When it is in 4 low, it is really not advisable to turn on hard surfaces, and indeed difficult at speed to turn as it tends to go straight no matter what direction you turn the wheel, especially in snow.



While you are correct in stating that the axles do not lock, as in mechanically lock, the function is the same once the pinion turns and fluid pumps. Unlike a ratchet metal mechanical lock, it is a hydraulic lock.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0912-4wd-2009-jeep-grand-cherokee/

Some WK owners actually wire the actuators up to separate switches so they can actuate the front or rear locker separately, in high range.
Valpacer form Jeepforum did this:

Post #276
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/...war-machine-1376368/index19.html#post25684466

Here is a link for a guy who purchased a QD II front axle and wired it up separately to work as a locker in his commander instead of the stock QT II.

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums...scussion/19328-qd-ii-conversion-up-front.html

This is a pretty neat video put out by Eaton explaining how the system works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpiFq63N0Ac
This video does not discuss 4 low versus 4 high, only the mechanics of the actual diff.
 
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Kosmo

Adventurer
Jeep WK Air Filter and Filter frame.

So this is an easy ad for the Jeep WK, and most people would be surprised that this does not come stock; however many or most of the Jeep WKs were not equipped with a cabin air filter from the factory. An oddity for sure in a "Trail Rated" skid plated Quadra Drive II Jeep. That being said my local Mopar dealer wanted $80 for the frame alone, and the filter was another $40 or whatever. Recently I found on Amazon a Chrysler dealer selling frame and filter for a very reasonable price.
IMG_5205.jpg
If you can not find it PM me and I will send the info. Install was super easy, and even though the instructions said to remove the passenger side wiper arm, this was not necessary.

See photos. IMG_5206.jpg

Frame has two holes and comes with two plugs that firmly push in as well as a clip on the outboard passenger side (RH)
 

2180miles

Endurance Adventuring
Looks good Kosmo...

Quick question from one GC guy to another; how are you securing the rear shelving/tray platform? I've been looking at doing the same kind of thing for a fridge in the back of my WK2 but am unsure as to how I want to approach holding it down at this point. Any input would be great!
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
I built tabs that slip into the stock location. I removwd the palatic base stock minimal storage thingy. I will probably ad sone sort of fastening affair at the back to keep it firmly seated. Turnbuckle or threadsert
 

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