New to Overlanding, need tips on building my Ram

[NoloJS]

Anything in the front end could be causing the popping sound.

Trac bar bushings
control arm bushings
tie rod ends
shock bushings
bolts not being tight enough
ovaled out bolt holes from bolts not being tight enough
front axle u-joints (use the Spicer/Dana triple lip seal ones)
unit bearings

hell, even bad differential oil (sheered) can cause the rear LSD to click when turning.


Best thing to do IMHO: Have someone you TRUST, get in truck & turn the wheel back & forth & see if you hear it or see it, if not, start grabbing & shaking stuff & try to duplicate the sound. Good luck.

I had to sink $5k in parts & labor into our Power Wagon, while it was still under warranty, so, i feel your pain.

Thank you for the info.
I had my son turn the wheel back and forth for me, and I didn't see the or hear the popping. I only feel it in certain situations, and it's 90% in the pedals...
They are...
1) Applying the brake, and again when coming to a complete stop, then occasionally after applying the accelerator after the stop.
2) Turning into a driveway
3) Speedbumps
I never felt it before installing the Borgeson HD steering box and steering shaft with the Mopar steering upgrade kit... I will have that all inspected by the mechanic installing my Carli products. I am sure that it will be resolved either with the parts I intend to replace, or the expertise of the installing shop. I can only do so much in my driveway with the tools that I have.

 

[KSL22]

I was told the clunk after leaving a hard stop is the brake pads. I thought my fuel tank had to be loose at first. I still get that one from time to time. The rest??

 

[silvrcummns]

Spare tire under bed swinging a little bit? Sway bar mounts or end links, trackbar joints and steering parts cause the most noises and odd feelings. I'll ask if the truck was running during your loose parts check. I've found for me that truck not running, brakes applied and fast side to side. Most likely won't actually get the tires to turn but going from hard feeling in wheel to hard feeling usually works best. That's how I check steering on these trucks

You can fit a 35x12 in the factory spare location. It's tight with some aftermarket exhaust and there's a wire harness on the driver frame rail to watch out for.

I have a 04 ram 3500 single rear wheel. My suspension is Tauren swaybar, front coils, his tuned fox 2.0's, track bar w/ emf rod ends lower joint, 1/2 longer control arms, shackles and Cari full leaf packs. Steering is 08 t steering, Carli ss steering stabilizer and synergy box brace ( only some types work with thorns sway bar). With 35x12 r 17 cooper st max tires on method double standards. I'm very pleased with the set up and although I haven't wheeled in Moab, I've found myself on eagle canyon arch trail which was probably the most demanding I've been on with my rig ( I admit my wheeling experience is fairly low).The truck handled it like a champ though and I didn't even unhook the sway bar.

 

[Ozymandias]

On mine it was the cabin bushings, worn out, clunking metall to metall, rubber was gone in between, not visible till disassemble.
Had thrown parts on it, the whole front end till someone told me about that ********* bushings.

And this truck doesn't have a common Disc LSD, it's a Torsen Differential with gears, no clutches and no special oil is needed. Do not use LSD Oil in this Diff or it won't work like desired.