Intelligent wiring

[1aquaholic]

I'm thinking of going multiplex, spendy but opens up endless possibilities. Anyone have experience or advice?

http://infinitybox.com/can-bus-system-products/aftermarket-products/

Thanks
j

 

[gait]

just a quick look .... seems mainly switching things, I couldn't find mention of sensors. Programming seemed like "ask our programmers and we'll rent you an updater" which would probably make custom stuff exy. I guess it all starts with what one is trying to achieve.

 

[SkiFreak]

The KISS principle comes to mind here....

 

[1aquaholic]

Thanks everyone for the input! November they are coming out with a user interface adapter so that you can program anything how you want. I agree it is lots of wow and what is that really worth but I do like the idea of stepping out of the rig and leveling air bags, lifting the top, or starting a pump to draft river water just as examples, also engine start and disable capabilities, endless configuration possibilities with how things activate and shut down, but you are right non of it is a necessity.

I can't say my build is kiss, sometimes I wish it was but some of the fun is doing it up with off the beaten path ideas, and there will be a lot less wiring and no fuses and better diagnostics. Ahhhg it always sounds like I'm trying to talk myself into it hahah. I really appreciate everyone's perspective and thoughts though and they definitely influence me, keep it coming

j

 

[LeishaShannon]

I'm pretty happy with how our multiplexed power system works. We have the main DC board with big CBs for inverters, solar, etc then from the main board we have 4 circuits running to the front inside of the camper, rear inside of the camper, the roof, and under the truck. Front/rear of camper handle inside lights, pumps, fans, chargers, cupboard/drawer locks etc. The roof does the floodlights, extraction fan, outside lights and the under truck does the compressor, outside pumps, ball valves for pump/filter, alternator, etc. Troubleshooting is quite easy and replacing the relay boards takes around 30 minutes (8 relays to a board).

The main issue we've had is the junction boxes outside leaking... doesn't seem to matter what I do water gets in there and then some time later the relay board is toast. I'm going to try potting the replacement relay boards next time this happens... hopefully that'll sort them out.

 

[SkiFreak]

In my opinion, potting stuff is a very viable solution to eliminate water ingress and protect against vibration issues.
I have used electronic potting mix in the past, but found it to be quite expensive. I would think that using fibreglass resin would be a suitable alternative. You would need to keep the mix ratio low, so that you do not end up with an undesirable exothermic reaction, but other than that it should definitely do the job.

 

[DzlToy]

Talked to them at SEMA a few years ago. Looked like top notch products and the guys in the booth were very knowledgable, answering quite a few questions.

I have no install experience, but I do like the concept of it and I don't understand why more upfitters, body builders and custom car/truck guys don't make use of systems like this. So much better in every way than traditional wiring circuits to relays and fuse panels, IMO.

 

[zelatore]

I did this stuff in building management & factory automation for alot of my electrical career. (not Infinitybox btw. Same product, Just different manufacturers...)
Its great thing in a FedEx Hub, Oiltanker or Space Shuttle.

Boils down to how much expensive geekery does a one want to build into a 110sq ft. camper ?
Does a guy prefer playing Mouseclicker to operate or show off their expensive Geeks masterpiece or just get out and visit the area one Expo-ed into ?

The KISS principle comes to mind here....

I think these two sum it up. I've dealt with similar systems installed by the OEM on some boats and it's more of a PITA than anything as far as I'm concerned. It's got the 'gee whiz' factor that you can program one switch to do many things so if you want to bring down light group A while fading light group B to mid level and light group C to full brightness for a certain mood it's great. And in theory it can save considerably in copper weight by not haveing to run full size wire everywhere. But in reality I find mostly they just add a layer of complexity that cannot be field repaired easily and require specialized parts when they do break.

I'll take simple switches any day. Easy to troubleshoot and if one fails you can likely swap in a spare in 10 minutes or just jumper it to get home. Of course, I understand I'm getting older every day...