2004 R50 Pathfinder

[DanF.]

Ran into a clearance issue installing Mile Marker 435 hubs with '04 SE wheels. You can see in this picture that the 100mm opening has a small concentric lip (5-6mm?) running along the inside of the opening. This lip is what the small plastic center caps clip onto, and it shrinks the opening down enough so that the manual locking hub won't fit.

Here is how far the manual hub will protrude through the opening. I removed the manual hub cap and it didn't help with fitment.

And here it is from the back. You can see how the manual hub can't even clear the plane of the wheel, however there is plenty of room around the base of the hub to fit into the wheel opening.

If you look at this picture from an old NPORA post you can see that the hub doesn't mount flush, or on the same plane, as the wheel. It would need to be sitting 3/4"-1" or so into the wheel opening.

So my options, I think, are to grind the lip out of the center cap opening, or to buy wheel spacers that compensate for the hub not being able to be set further inside the wheel opening. I don't have a Dremel, but I do have a cordless drill, and I imagine I can find a grinding bit that'll fit in the drill chuck.

If I grind the lip, it should be fairly cheap. I would have to do all four wheels so I could rotate them during oil changes or other maintenance.

If I buy spacers I won't have to alter the wheels, but it'll cost me $200 or so for the four spacers, which I still need to see if they exist.

What do you fellas say?

 

[Trophycummins]

Find a wheel shop that can up up the center bore of the wheels for you. In my area they charge $15/wheel.

 

[DanF.]

Find a wheel shop that can up up the center bore of the wheels for you. In my area they charge $15/wheel.

I'm not sure of any shop around here that'll do that. Also, if I have all four wheels machined then the center caps won't fit on the rear wheels, and there will be an open hole that'll let in dust/sand/debris.

 

[DanF.]

Or would the rear drum cover it all up?

 

[Trophycummins]

I'm not sure of any shop around here that'll do that. Also, if I have all four wheels machined then the center caps won't fit on the rear wheels, and there will be an open hole that'll let in dust/sand/debris.

Does that bother you? Iv never had an issue with not running caps on the wheels.


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[DanF.]

Does that bother you? Iv never had an issue with not running caps on the wheels.


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This is my first 4x4, and I'm still learning a lot. I guess it's not an issue. Also, if I buy some shorter manual hubs, I'd probably remedy the situation I'm in. Just waiting to gather a little more info before I pull the trigger on the other brand.

 

[system-f]

I agree, the best option is no caps...got rid of mine once I went with manual hubs.

But if you must:

To do it right you will need another vehicle.

First call the tire shop and machine shop and tell them what you want, make sure they are okay with this.

Take the wheels/tires to a tire shop and have the tires unmounted.
Take the wheels to a machine shop and tell them what you want, their lathes will do it no problem. My local machine shop had to machine my 17" motorcycle wheel. (automotive supply in fort worth, tx)
Get the wheels back to the tire shop and have the tires mounted
Install the new tires/wheels.

OR

get on car-parts.com and find the same wheels at a good price close to you
take the wheels to a machine shop and have the work done
take your vehicle and the machined wheels to a tire shop and have the tires mounted and install with the adjusted wheels
sell the original wheels if you don't want them

 

[XPLORx4]

Here are a couple simpler solutions than trying to adapt your wheels to fit a specific aftermarket part at considerable additional expense:

A) Install Warn hubs instead of MM hubs. The Warn hubs taper to a smaller diameter and will fit in the hub bore and not interfere with the lip. (Either way, you won't be using center caps on the front wheels.)
B) Don't bother with manual hubs at all.