Here's a few pics of the M1101 that I recently acquired. I've decided to keep the hitch, the tires and the brakes stock for now and see how I like them.
I can't see getting rid of the tires with the run flat capabilities, as the way I see it this negates the need for a spare. And dropping down to the size on my truck would only lower the trailer about 2.5 inches. Not worth carrying a spare as I see it.
Electric brakes would be nice, but I'll just see how it goes. I have electric on two other trailers and it's definitely nice. But I've had surge brakes on a boat trailer and it worked as well.
The hitch is another of those "I'll just have to see how it works out" before I spend time and effort on changing it.
The rack I built from 2x2 steel square tubing for the uprights with 1.75 x 1.75 for the inserts to gain some telescoping capabilities (20 inches).
I built in telescoping capabilities not to bring it to camp height (the lowered position is it at camp height) but to be able to raise the rack should I choose to load a quad in under the rack (rack raised with linear actuators). The top of rack is 78 inches off the ground in the lowered position (where it will be all the time). But if I need to load and unload a quad then I need a little space over my head to be able to crouch down and drive the quad into the trailer when loading and unloading. From the floor of the trailer to the bottom of the rack is 41 inches in the lowered (normal) position, and will be at 61 inches when raised with the linear actuators.
I've seen others who are concerned with CG and want the tent lowered for travel. If you look at where the CG is for this trailer (well documented being a mil. spec. item) you will see that it sits just about the top of the frame in a stock empty configuration. Even with a steel rack like this and the largest and heaviest tent that CVT makes, the CG will not be raised a significant amount. The wide wheel base is definitely working in your favor here. I am sure that I would roll my Tundra before I could ever roll this trailer. That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but suffice it to say that I will chicken out before I can roll it. But that's just my way of seeing it.
The upper cross members are 2x1x.120 steel. It's also braced for lateral strength. I've seen some racks built that have little to no bracing, and that scares me. Panic stops and fender benders can exert tremendous forces on a load up on a rack. I'm a bit of an over engineering type, but this trailer will carry about 2,700 pounds, so a few extra pounds in rack weight for safety is the least of my worries.
I just tonight got it to the state you see in the photos with the tent deployed in the driveway. There's a few misc. things that I wish to do yet before I head out for the maiden trip.
This is one fantastically well built trailer considering what you pay on average for these. We each have our own needs in an "expedition" or camping trailer, but I can't see many folks disappointed with an M1101/2 if they can get their hands on one.
I can't see getting rid of the tires with the run flat capabilities, as the way I see it this negates the need for a spare. And dropping down to the size on my truck would only lower the trailer about 2.5 inches. Not worth carrying a spare as I see it.
Electric brakes would be nice, but I'll just see how it goes. I have electric on two other trailers and it's definitely nice. But I've had surge brakes on a boat trailer and it worked as well.
The hitch is another of those "I'll just have to see how it works out" before I spend time and effort on changing it.
The rack I built from 2x2 steel square tubing for the uprights with 1.75 x 1.75 for the inserts to gain some telescoping capabilities (20 inches).
I built in telescoping capabilities not to bring it to camp height (the lowered position is it at camp height) but to be able to raise the rack should I choose to load a quad in under the rack (rack raised with linear actuators). The top of rack is 78 inches off the ground in the lowered position (where it will be all the time). But if I need to load and unload a quad then I need a little space over my head to be able to crouch down and drive the quad into the trailer when loading and unloading. From the floor of the trailer to the bottom of the rack is 41 inches in the lowered (normal) position, and will be at 61 inches when raised with the linear actuators.
I've seen others who are concerned with CG and want the tent lowered for travel. If you look at where the CG is for this trailer (well documented being a mil. spec. item) you will see that it sits just about the top of the frame in a stock empty configuration. Even with a steel rack like this and the largest and heaviest tent that CVT makes, the CG will not be raised a significant amount. The wide wheel base is definitely working in your favor here. I am sure that I would roll my Tundra before I could ever roll this trailer. That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but suffice it to say that I will chicken out before I can roll it. But that's just my way of seeing it.
The upper cross members are 2x1x.120 steel. It's also braced for lateral strength. I've seen some racks built that have little to no bracing, and that scares me. Panic stops and fender benders can exert tremendous forces on a load up on a rack. I'm a bit of an over engineering type, but this trailer will carry about 2,700 pounds, so a few extra pounds in rack weight for safety is the least of my worries.
I just tonight got it to the state you see in the photos with the tent deployed in the driveway. There's a few misc. things that I wish to do yet before I head out for the maiden trip.
This is one fantastically well built trailer considering what you pay on average for these. We each have our own needs in an "expedition" or camping trailer, but I can't see many folks disappointed with an M1101/2 if they can get their hands on one.
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