Build suggestions
- Thread starter Lenny
- Start date
I'd suggest rockers/sliders before a winch and bumper. Both my wk's have suffered some lower body damage that could have been extremely easily prevented if my current 4xguard rockers had been in place when the damage occurred. One dent was just a broken tree branch that got kicked up at an odd angle when i crossed it.
I chose to stick with my oem location for my spare, even though it's a 33" stuffed under there. It required some modification to the hitch, the hardware is reversed, and i have to keep the tire deflated... But it's under there. (I do carry my compressor all the time)
I think if you did the same modifications to the hitch, you'd might not have to deflate your tire with the 32" you're running.
I chose to stick with my oem location for my spare, even though it's a 33" stuffed under there. It required some modification to the hitch, the hardware is reversed, and i have to keep the tire deflated... But it's under there. (I do carry my compressor all the time)
I think if you did the same modifications to the hitch, you'd might not have to deflate your tire with the 32" you're running.
Last edited:
A lot of sensible advice. Once you get out, you will see what you are missing. Upgrading the basic things that need to be replaced, and staying ahead of the replacement cycle so you don't have to buy stock OEM for a higher price than a higher performance replacement part is important.
WKs are finicky with electrical, so if you are going to remote places building a rear cargo storage area, and adding a second battery system as well as power connects and lighting will likely be one of your bigger projects. Not as sexy as a bull bar and winch, but likely more useful day to day. Not sure I missed it, or you didn't post it, but what is the engine? Does it have QDII?
Brakes are one of the things you will want to research a bit, and be prepared to swap. Omelet's build on JeepForum has a lot of ideas, although his is much more of an off-road rig, than a back country explorer, you can still get an idea of parts available, etc. For Brakes, I went with the Stillen setup from Kolak all the way around. Depending on when your rig was serviced you will probably need to do ball joints at some point. If I have to do it again I will just buy complete lower control arms. I tried buying higher quality and replacing them one by one individually, but in the end not sure I was any further ahead for all the work required. Complete PITA. Also along the same lines be prepared to change your front differential bushings. Might want to inspect them now.
Seems you are south of winter driving and salted roads, but your profile does not say where you park your Jeep. If your Jeep was exposed to salt roads the armor on the fuel tank tends to trap debris mud, salt small rocks and cause the tank to rust. Preventative maintenance will head this off. You can start by looking with a flashlight at the corner by the rear driver's wheel. That usually gets it the worst.
Best basic upgrades bang for back. IMHO
OME Lift (Do you find it harsh up front?) I am hoping winch bumper weight will soften it up a bit.
LT Tires Cooper Discoverer A/T and BFG KO2 were highly rated on this sites comparison.
Front and rear anti-sway bar Disconnects give it a nice feel on fire roads and much more give.
Upper control arms 4xguard or other option. 4xguard you lose caster angle which he does not advertise.
Depending on mileage your CVs may need replacement. Some replacements have the same amount of ball and trunnions as stock, and some have less.
Some people opt for the RCV axle, but you shouldn't need to think about that. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJIFS-WK
Keep in mind if you are going to build this WK up, and plan to go exploring with other people and or tow a trailer, one of the biggest issues with the WK as an expedition rig is lack of payload. This really only becomes an issue if you have an accident and the investigators decide to look carefully at your rig and see if it exceeded the max weight rated on your door panel. There is only thing you can do to increase payload on your vehicle and that is take weight off of it, and that is counter intuitive to most thought. Basically you need to keep in ind that everything you bolt on to increase performance actually decreases your vehicles payload. Heavier suspension, better bakes, decreases payload.
On that note there is some aluminum armour. Asfir http://www.asfir.com/main-catalog/catalog-jeep/catalog-jeep-GrandCherokee2010 from Israel, and Steel Armadillo http://thesteelarmadillo.com/cart.php (out of Texas I think) is making a piece or two. Steel Armadillo also makes a nice laser cut switch plate that fits into your cubby pocket on the left of steering wheel.
Note on Quick Disconnects
I was out exploring camping spots on a friends 450 acre property and did not expect to do any four wheeling. When I was turning around my front wheel dropped into an abyss. It was very wet, raining and muddy. My tires were at full pressure as I had just towed a trailer. I had gotten quite a way into it before I realized how deep the hole was. The property owner was set to go back and get his tractor to pull me out, but I said, let's try lowering pressure and disconnecting anti-sway bars. It was a PITA to do in mud, but only had to disco the high side anti-sway bars to give free range of motion to all wheels. That and lowering the tire pressure and we were out. Considering the rear driver's wheel was pretty much clear of the ground when we started and the front driver's had little or no traction I think the disconnects had the biggest effect on the situation.
Snow photo is most recent. I picked up a cheap set of Mopar step bars so the kids could get in and out easier. WKs definitely need rock rails if you think you are ever going to use them. The pinch weld unibody is one of the lowest points on the Jeep and once you start compromising that, you are hurting your Jeep's longevity.
WKs are finicky with electrical, so if you are going to remote places building a rear cargo storage area, and adding a second battery system as well as power connects and lighting will likely be one of your bigger projects. Not as sexy as a bull bar and winch, but likely more useful day to day. Not sure I missed it, or you didn't post it, but what is the engine? Does it have QDII?
Brakes are one of the things you will want to research a bit, and be prepared to swap. Omelet's build on JeepForum has a lot of ideas, although his is much more of an off-road rig, than a back country explorer, you can still get an idea of parts available, etc. For Brakes, I went with the Stillen setup from Kolak all the way around. Depending on when your rig was serviced you will probably need to do ball joints at some point. If I have to do it again I will just buy complete lower control arms. I tried buying higher quality and replacing them one by one individually, but in the end not sure I was any further ahead for all the work required. Complete PITA. Also along the same lines be prepared to change your front differential bushings. Might want to inspect them now.
Seems you are south of winter driving and salted roads, but your profile does not say where you park your Jeep. If your Jeep was exposed to salt roads the armor on the fuel tank tends to trap debris mud, salt small rocks and cause the tank to rust. Preventative maintenance will head this off. You can start by looking with a flashlight at the corner by the rear driver's wheel. That usually gets it the worst.
Best basic upgrades bang for back. IMHO
OME Lift (Do you find it harsh up front?) I am hoping winch bumper weight will soften it up a bit.
LT Tires Cooper Discoverer A/T and BFG KO2 were highly rated on this sites comparison.
Front and rear anti-sway bar Disconnects give it a nice feel on fire roads and much more give.
Upper control arms 4xguard or other option. 4xguard you lose caster angle which he does not advertise.
Depending on mileage your CVs may need replacement. Some replacements have the same amount of ball and trunnions as stock, and some have less.
Some people opt for the RCV axle, but you shouldn't need to think about that. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJIFS-WK
Keep in mind if you are going to build this WK up, and plan to go exploring with other people and or tow a trailer, one of the biggest issues with the WK as an expedition rig is lack of payload. This really only becomes an issue if you have an accident and the investigators decide to look carefully at your rig and see if it exceeded the max weight rated on your door panel. There is only thing you can do to increase payload on your vehicle and that is take weight off of it, and that is counter intuitive to most thought. Basically you need to keep in ind that everything you bolt on to increase performance actually decreases your vehicles payload. Heavier suspension, better bakes, decreases payload.
On that note there is some aluminum armour. Asfir http://www.asfir.com/main-catalog/catalog-jeep/catalog-jeep-GrandCherokee2010 from Israel, and Steel Armadillo http://thesteelarmadillo.com/cart.php (out of Texas I think) is making a piece or two. Steel Armadillo also makes a nice laser cut switch plate that fits into your cubby pocket on the left of steering wheel.
Note on Quick Disconnects
I was out exploring camping spots on a friends 450 acre property and did not expect to do any four wheeling. When I was turning around my front wheel dropped into an abyss. It was very wet, raining and muddy. My tires were at full pressure as I had just towed a trailer. I had gotten quite a way into it before I realized how deep the hole was. The property owner was set to go back and get his tractor to pull me out, but I said, let's try lowering pressure and disconnecting anti-sway bars. It was a PITA to do in mud, but only had to disco the high side anti-sway bars to give free range of motion to all wheels. That and lowering the tire pressure and we were out. Considering the rear driver's wheel was pretty much clear of the ground when we started and the front driver's had little or no traction I think the disconnects had the biggest effect on the situation.
Snow photo is most recent. I picked up a cheap set of Mopar step bars so the kids could get in and out easier. WKs definitely need rock rails if you think you are ever going to use them. The pinch weld unibody is one of the lowest points on the Jeep and once you start compromising that, you are hurting your Jeep's longevity.
Attachments
Last edited:
SSF556
SE Expedition Society
4x armor is good stuff...
Jeep or Tacoma
Explorer
here is my take on OME
an excellent product. I have had the system on my 100 series land cruiser and they worked very well just slightly more firm than the land cruisers original shocks which were soft. but very progressive. I have them on my Jeep kJ now. I had standard rubicon suspension but with the weight of the bumper and winch it nearly collapsed the springs so I went with a heavy duty 4 inch set up and it is excellent. the first 2 pictures are of my old land cruiser and the last is f my jeep's stock suspension nearly collapsed
an excellent product. I have had the system on my 100 series land cruiser and they worked very well just slightly more firm than the land cruisers original shocks which were soft. but very progressive. I have them on my Jeep kJ now. I had standard rubicon suspension but with the weight of the bumper and winch it nearly collapsed the springs so I went with a heavy duty 4 inch set up and it is excellent. the first 2 pictures are of my old land cruiser and the last is f my jeep's stock suspension nearly collapsed
