The ManVan. 06 E350 Chateau V10

rex_1_mn

Observer
Been a busy summer.

As far as vibration I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet. I feel it is either the rear shaft or the transfer case output hub. Either one will cost some $$ and may not fix the problem. Anyone have any idea on what an acceptable amount of runout is on the output hub of the t-case? I was able to make it much better with a large pipe clamp near the front of shaft in the right spot. The vibration got a lot better but is still too much at 75mph plus. This leads me the think its in the shaft but it has been balanced twice by two different places. I probably need to get the CV joint at the front of the shaft changed and cross my fingers this is the problem.

I have around 8K miles on my 4x4 conversion and I like it a lot so far. The ride gets better and better the more mileage I put on it. It definitely rides like a big truck but not as harsh as the stock suspension was. I am getting just over 11mpg average. we are going to be taking the van to the black hills in late September.

For the future I am hoping for some additional fuel tank capacity and looking into a versatile interior layout. I need seating for 4 but would like to have something so in a pinch I can put 6-7 in seat belts. I need to lose the rear bench though takes a ton of room and doesn't fold down. Also still need to figure out a place for my spare. Cant get myself to spend the 600$ for the aluminess carrier.
 

rex_1_mn

Observer
No big updates. Ordered some new pioneer speakers, seat heater kits, and am getting all the little bits of rust sandblasted and painted. I am putting up a shop this summer so that will be taking up most of my time and $$. In the end with a lift it should allow me to work much more efficiently on future projects. If we have some money and time we will be taking the van to the redwoods in August.

Still reading and following everyone else’s threads for ideas and inspiration.
 

rex_1_mn

Observer
So I took the van to the body shop to get some roof and drip rail rust blasted and cleaned up. I have the ford ‘’Norsea’’ blue on top currently and am thinking of changing it to match the silver on the rockers. This would just be for the roof to help keep them temps down inside.

My concerns are

Will silver on the roof look dumb vs the blue that is currently there?

Will silver make any kind of noticeable difference sitting in the sun?

Looking for opinions, examples, and ideas.

Thanks in advance
 

Raul

Adventurer
I've done that in both my vans. I like how it looks, specially on the Chateau as it matches the rockers. on my 2000 Chateau I had the same problem than you; needed to fix some rust on the rain gutters.
roofrepair_9a7dfd9673a1c6365bd5e10eceae20167fc09ba4.jpg
I painted using Rustolleum and a roller. Far from view, it looked good.
DSC_85693ed (1).jpg

The 2010 was silver before I painted brown and black.
000IMG_2004.jpg

Living in Houston, TX heat management is a priority. I haven't done any scientific measurement, but I want to believe that it works.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_85693ed.jpg
    DSC_85693ed.jpg
    43 KB · Views: 245
Last edited:

rex_1_mn

Observer
What are you guys using for image hosting? I tried google photos but couldn’t find the url of a picture from an IPhone. I want something easy and basic no editing or anything just host my pictures. I have some changes updates and fixes on the van that I’ll post but I need to host pictures somewhere.
 

Raul

Adventurer
I use the forum itself. On the insert picture you can specify pictures from your computer as long as they are not too big and the forum itself host the pics.

Capture.JPG
 

rex_1_mn

Observer
Well this post was a struggle. Not sure why some photos wouldn't upload and some came in rotated.

Anyway put some new speakers in. Way better than factory. Running them off a new head unit. Nothing high priced but sounds good.

Got some rust cleaned up and roof/gutters repainted.

Also bypassed the stock check valve and vac reservoir. I noticed last year going up a steep hill while towing that I would lose ac and start blowing heat. Got a new check valve and a reservoir for an old Cherokee. The resivoir tucked nicely under the passenger dash.

Sorry for the poor pictures. I need to find a better way yet.


F8728C8A-209D-498E-B691-25CB6BACE4B4.jpg
055AC702-87FE-47B0-8FFB-DDC444B0934C.jpg687A68B9-9382-4C8A-8E06-768EC2969998.jpg51794661-9F09-46B1-A753-304D26C7E22A.jpg5C9B2AF5-1160-46A8-BB9C-5DA7A9C41EED.jpg4DEBEB04-CD66-4401-9A50-73E9E8AB18EF.jpg644740AA-3D47-403E-85F1-C716A99C73BA.jpg
 
Last edited:

rex_1_mn

Observer
The Hvac system is run mostly by flaps or diverters that are actuated by vacuum. The vacuum source comes off of the intake. This provides good vacuum pressure when you are at idle or lower power demands. When you are on the gas under heavy load the vacuum pressure in the intake drops. When under heavy load the resivoir is already drawn down to a good vacuum and the check valve will not allow the resivoir and hvac system to lose this. It allows the engine to suck air from the system but not return air to it. If this is not working well you will find on that hot summer day when you put a good load on the engine with a hill or while towing that suddenly you are getting hot air on your feet and or the windshield instead of cold air from the vents. The problem with this whole system in our ford vans is that the factory check valves are very prone to failure. That would fine but the factory check valve and resivoir are buried under the heater core and various ac parts just in front of the firewall on the passenger side. I think some of the dash may even need to come off to get to this area. What I have done is bypass the stock stuff because I didn’t want to excavate it out and repair it.

I’ve heard to have the dealer take this apart and fix it right is between 500 and 1000$ because it’s such a pain.
Here is a video for reference. Not mine but one I checked while investigating this problem.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-SM2Xc5TGLo
 

WVI

Adventurer
Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to explain it.
Man, there's a bunch of videos relating to this.
 

Justgosurfin

Active member
Rex did you find that all the sterlings 05+ have that flange? Do you recall the size of it and the ujoints and pads you used?
 

rex_1_mn

Observer
Rex did you find that all the sterlings 05+ have that flange? Do you recall the size of it and the ujoints and pads you used?

Which flange are we talking about? Sorry did I miss something in my own thread? Joints and pads? The ujoints in the driveshaft are 1350’s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,783
Messages
2,878,182
Members
225,329
Latest member
FranklinDufresne

Members online

Top