Another Budget 3rd Gen 4Runner build

[Renegade_Medic]

***I No longer Update this Thread, but this one is up to date, for those wanting more information


Howdy,
This "build" initially started as a more "3rd vehicle"/ weekend car. It has grown into being my DD. I really enjoy it and drive it much more than my pickup, predominantly due to ride and fuel economy (18 vs 12).

Current:

The goal of this build is to have a go-anywhere vehicle for my Wife and I, and eventually children. We currently have no kids (other than dogs), so I would like to "finish" this build before we have kids (the crunch is on, the hints have become less subtle...).

Wen purchased:
1999 Limited 4x4. 4.30 axles with rear locker
Imperial Jade Mica over Imperial Jade Mica (got it, whoever picked this out really liked green)
2 owner with 248k miles
Condition: interior 9/10, exterior 6/10

What I have done so far:

Chassis:
Toytec/Eibach 3in Heavy Springs with Bilstein 5100 in front
ARB/Old Man Emu 891 with Bilstein 5100 in rear
Sonoran Steel Adjustable Track bar
Second-gen rear sway bar end links on ALL 4 corners
Toytec Front Diff drop
All-Pro Offroad Sliders with Kickout
All new front suspension wear items (upper and lower joints, tie rods, and wheel bearings) One rear bearing... so far.
Urethane Steering Rack bushings

Engine:
Deck plate mod
Airaid MIT intake
Transmission cooler bypass with BM 70268 cooler
<s>Horribly leaking valve cover gaskets</s> fixed
Full tune up
Borla 40664 ProXS Muffler

Tires: Falken Wildpeak AT3W P285/70R17
Wheels: Konig/FN Countersteer Type X 17x8 -10 offset

Exterior:
Tan Paint job with Black 2-tone
Smittybilt XRC 9500 Gen 2 winch
Custom Roof rack for Rooftop Tent
ARB Simpson III RTT^
TRD stickers

Interior:
LED everything
Pioneer touch screen radio with BT/XM
Shovel and Axe on rear liftgate
Outlets wired to always be on
Lots of dog hair

To be done:
<s>Other rear bearing is now leaking
Valve cover gaskets</s>
Extended rear bumpstops
Front Window Tint
<s>Airaid Jr/MIT, factory rubber intake is rotted and cracked</s>
Finish Front section of roof rack with wind deflector and lighting
Airlift 1000 Rear Airbags
Rear Bumper replacement/Hitch removal
Full size diameter (or close) spare tire
Some sort of extra Fuel holder
HID retrofit
New Front CV Boots

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Acquisition and first trip

After seeking some input and looking at quite a few different vehicles, I finally brought home my 4Runner. I looked at a few Grand Cherokee WJs, a Ford Explorer and a couple 4Runners. I found this 2 owner 99 Limited with 248k miles for a cool $3500. The paint has some bad spots, but the inside is beautiful, especially given it's mileage. Per the sticker, it has 4.30:1 gears and has a locking diff.

Day 2:
After taking it home, I noted an acceptable 15mpg, but thought it could get more. It also didn't really want to go much over 3000 RPM. A tune-up was in order.
Plugs and wires, the ones in there were pretty bad. I'm actually surprised it was even running at all.
Here's the first plug I pulled out, this was probably the best one.

I noted an old radiator with some fresh green collant under the cap before I bought it. The reservoir has red coolant in it still, so the green was probably just added. Since I did my homework, I knew a new radiator would be a good idea. I flushed out the coolant as best as I could and filled it with distilled water, then about 1.25 gallons of red coolant (wasn't easy to find). I did not hook up the transmission portion.

I added a B&M supercooler that I had laying around (I ordered it for one of my trucks, it was significantly smaller than the factory oil cooler so I didn't put it on).

Also did an oil change, drained and replaced a gallon of transmission fluid. I attempted to check the rear differential, but could not get the drain plug out. Glad I was going to check it before I drained it. I drained and replaced the front diff and transfer case oil.

Next up was removed the running boards. I don't like running boards and these were useless anyway, if you use them you stand about 2 feet above the door opening, and I'm not very tall. They also look like they are screaming to be hung up on a rock or similar. I also took off the wind deflector off the sunroof, it was making too much noise.

Up next will be a timing belt and associated parts (water pump and gaskets).

First trip was a last minute trip down to the beach.

We loaded up the 4runner with our camping gear, cooler, and "kids" (2 pups).

The 4runner did very well at the beach. It is likely the first time it's really ever been off road. The frame has no scrapes and scratches and the running boards were clean underneath. I intentionally buried it in some soft sand to try out the 4low and diff locker. With riding the brake and giving it steady gas, it crawled right out, so need for "crawl control" here.

The main things I learned from my trip:
The 4Runner is a great platform for trips. I had no problem loading everything up and getting on the road. It was good on gas, but was a little sluggish. The 5VZ will not be winning any races... My other vehicles are: an F250 with a 460, and an F150 with a tuned-up Ecoboost (400 whp and 481 wtq), so the 5VZ took some getting used to, but it is adequate, I guess.

Things I learned that need improvement:
SUSPENSION!!! The stock suspension is pretty worn out and likely factory. It pretty much rode on the bumpstops (EDIT: apparently the jounce bumpers not the stops), at least on the rear. Every time I hit a bump, I was rewarded with a loud thunk and an abrupt shock from the rear end. I may have some compressed disks now... So the second order of business, after timing belt, is going to be suspension. I was initially wanting to do only 1-2" of lift, but now I'm thinking 3" to get further away from the bump stops.
I am going to order the following setup:
Toytec/Eibach Front
OME 890 rear springs, but not sure about that
Bilstein 5100 front and rear shocks

I do have a question regarding using the longer springs and the bilstein struts. When using both the lift springs and the adjustable struts, do I leave the struts at the "stock" setting? IE: will using a 3" lift spring and stock height setting on the strut yield a 3" lift? or does the strut need to be moved up to the top notch?

Thanks for any input.

 

[austintaco]

Nice find and initial maintenance. I have a Tacoma, and I have had great success with Tundra coils up front. I originally used Tundra bilsteins, and then I replaced them with the adjustable bilsteins. My goal was to be at around 2.75" with an ARB bumper. The front ends are similar on the two vehicles, but you are welcome to look at my setup if you like. Sonoran Steel, in my opinion, has the best engineered systems for these trucks.

 

[MandAtaco]

Great looking rig and a good deal too! Love the 3rd gens!

I've ran Bilstein adjustable and OME lift springs on a 3rd before and on my 4th now. Leave the shocks at the "stock height" setting with the lift springs. If down the road you add a heavier bumper or something you could go up a notch to add a little pre-load to the spring (had to on my old 96), but for the most part buy the right springs for your expected weight load.

Looking forward to the build!

 

[hounddogman]

Good choice on the 3rd-gen . I have a 96 and also a 01 WJ and the 4Runner is better in many ways . I have the tundra bilsteines with the eibach springs and yes the bottom position should give you a 3" lift . I'm on the 2nd from bottom position with a heavy bumper and winch . I actually swapped out tundra trd springs for the eibach springs to get a full 3 inches .

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Nice find and initial maintenance. I have a Tacoma, and I have had great success with Tundra coils up front. I originally used Tundra bilsteins, and then I replaced them with the adjustable bilsteins. My goal was to be at around 2.75" with an ARB bumper. The front ends are similar on the two vehicles, but you are welcome to look at my setup if you like. Sonoran Steel, in my opinion, has the best engineered systems for these trucks.

Thanks, I may hit you up, if I need more input, especially since you are just up the road!

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Timing belt kit will be going on on Thursday afternoon.
Lift should be in on Friday, will also be doing the front lower ball joints (with toyota parts) and time permitting a new inner axle seal for the rear, found the source of my brakes not working very well.


Any good source on some sort of cargo mat to cover the whole entire rear area and back of the rear seats when folded? Its full of stinky sand that I cant seem to vacuum out. I have toyed with getting a rubber truck bed mat and cutting to fit.

 

[SurferJacoby]

Oddly enough the only time I've seen the cover you're referring to was in Japan and on Japanese auction sites. I'll post you a link

 

[04dblcab]

You'll need this unless you wanna take the AC compressor off to take the tensioner off to compress it. This tool goes between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley to push the tensioner down.

If you have anymore questions, let me know.

Good luck buddy!

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Thanks, yes I got that and got it done. I just typed up a whole post, then it logged me out when I clicked post. Outstanding.

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Got a lot done this week/weekend.
First up, the timing belt and water pump. What a pain.
Everything went ok, overall. I broke a stud for the water pump, specifically the thermostat housing. I replaced it with an M8-1.25x50mm bolt if anyone breaks one and stumbles across this. Also, I chipped the edge of the harmonic balancer. After pricing them, I filed down the edge and put it back on. This is something I felt good about doing and even better knowing that I probably won't do it again, or not for a long time.

I could not get the belt on for the life of me. I compressed the tensioner so far that I broke the new tensioner pulley bracket. Still wouldn't fit. I got creative with some clamps, rotated the cams, and had a couple extra hands. It worked, definitely wasn't as easy as every video I saw where the belt just slid on. The belt and pump appeared to be factory, they were stamped toyota, not whatever brand the actual manufacturer is for the various parts. Not bad for a quarter million miles. Should have done this before putting the new radiator in, it took a few hits.

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Lift install

I was so excited to get this stuff done, I didn't even sweep my shop up first.

For the lift I decided to try out the eibach/toytec front 3" springs and OME 891s in the rear. I wanted the heavier springs in the rear because this will primarily be loaded down with camping gear and probably a roof top tent and bumper in the future. It sagged badly with the gear for a quick overnight trip, so longer trips will be worse. I am not overly concerned about a rough ride when unloaded. My DD is a 93 F250HD long bed, not a smooth ride when unloaded, will be getting bilstein now that I see how they handle.

Anyway, a word of advice for anyone who stumbles on this while looking for lift advise. If you order from Wheelers, they offer to assemble your struts for you, for a small fee when compared to the overall cost of the parts. You should strongly consider it. I thought I got it and I didn't. So, I got to do an awesome arm/shoulder workout yesterday. I really hate compressing springs, I always forget until I'm doing them. Although these were much easier than my scion, which I almost couldn't get the clamps out of once it was back together.

They went on pretty easily, just time consuming, this probably added about 3 hours of beer drinking, I mean working, to my lift install.

I ran out of daylight/drive after doing the fronts.

This morning, after loaning a friend my truck for a few days (ironically his timing belt broke), the push is on for this to be road ready and get me to work in the morning.

Got the rear on with little issue. I used a Sawzall to remove the rear shocks. It felt good, really good. As with the front, no idea which spring was for which side, but I just guessed that the marginally longer goes on the driver side.
I installed a drop bracket for the panhard bar. Poorly. Apparently, some time between setting the upper bolt in place and getting the welder closer the bracket swung out. So I now have a very sturdy drop bracket that will require a longer panhard bar anyway, so that's $60 and an hour I'll never see again. Oops, live and learn. Measure twice weld once?

Then off the dealership to have my rear diff drain plug removed by a pro. It was stripped and I didn't feel like making it worse.
Look at that rake! Straight up 70s muscle car...

Then I got the call I had dreading. They couldn't get it out either. The service guy said they can extract it and rethreaded it. Sure, go ahead I told him. It didn't dawn on me until I was on the way to pick it up that I could have welded another nut to it and tried to remove it myself first. Oh well. The cost wasn't much more than I anticipated for the diff service anyway. While I was there he informed me the timing belt was past due. He said it hasn't been serviced by toyota for that. I informed him that it was done 40 miles ago. He seemed impressed that I did it myself, said if I wanted to make some extra money I can turn wrenches for him. I politely declined and told him the dealer wouldn't make any money after they paid me to change it. We laughed and I was on my way.

Now I can pull my axle and do the inner oil seal that is leaking, and be able to refill my axle, that's kind of important I hear.

All in all, a busy week/weekend, but I feel productive. And the ride is superb. I expect it to settle a little over the next few days/weeks, but I wouldn't consider the 891s to be harsh or anything like that, I would say firm, like it should be.

End results:

Before

After:

Next up will be tires and wheels. I found some later 4runner wheels in 17" that will work for me to get some 285/70R17s on.

I really like the Falken Wild peak A/T3W in P-metric. They are only 50 lbs each and appear to have what I'm looking for in terms of performance and I can get some shipped to my door for $701. So these wheels and tires and a couple cans of black paint. "New" wheels and nice new tires for sub-800? Yep, I'm on it.

 

[SurferJacoby]

Coming together nicely; I opted for the 861s in the rear recently. Got rid of the 8wraps which sagged under load. Look forward to more!

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

Looks great. Spring compressors are never fun.

Bolt extractors work great and should of been able to get that 24MM nut off for your fill plug. Also, as you mentioned, welding a nut to them also works, combined with a bit heat on the nut, followed by hitting it with a hammer to loosen the threads then some penetration oil. Either way, glad the issue is sorted out.

Should look great with the new tires on. Def a bit of fender gap!

 

[Renegade_Medic]

Brakes pt 1

Had some free time at work this morning and got some more work done. I replaced my trashed factory front brake lines.

Then fronts were no issue, it was nice to work on a clean rusty free vehicle. The last time I did brake hoses it was on my 77 CJ5, the lines just twisted and I ran a lot of brake line. The rear was not budging, down at the splitter. I'll take it off and throw it in a vise at home and take care of it.

I did pull a drum that was nice and oily on the outside and back. Either the wheel cylinder is leaking or it is the axle seal, I'm hoping the cylinder, but am ready to do the inner seal if needed. I may do both, just for peace of mind.

While I was crawling around under the truck, I lubed the Driveshafts and U joints. The grease that squeaked out looked pretty bad, they will probably appreciate the fresh grease.

I will be doing the drums when I figure out the oil situation on the one side. I am also considering getting the power stop z36 front rotors and pads. I'm aware of the tundra upgrade, the limited already has larger brakes, so I'll probably save my money on the tundra parts. I can get the powerstops for about $150. I think that will suffice.

 

[04dblcab]

Stripped drain plug!?

Air hammer time!