Gen 2 Feedback

Jarhead74

Observer
Nice Dprisner. Those tires look bigger then stock, what size are they? I see in your profile you had a 97 SR, why did you get rid of that one?
 

Dprisner

Observer
Geolandar P265/70's now. Having 33" BGF KO2's installed on the factory rims later this month. Yes, I did love the SR, and had every intention of keeping it long term, but had to consider the cost of repairs as the vehicle had high milage and lots of wear-n-tear. When I came across this LS, I decided to let go of the SR. The LS was a one owner, always garaged and just a great starting platform with very little needed. It's quite simply a "cream puff" of a Montero and should carry me another 10+ years.
 

Jarhead74

Observer
Been a while since I posted updates on my Montero. Today I replaced the KYB Gas-AJust for Bilsteins. Night and day. Was worth the change. Since I use the Montero for work travel, the ride is much better and the suspension has more controled movement. I also installed some Locking Hubs a few months back. While I did search for Asins, ended up settling on Chinese Brand for $80, they are YJDAP brand. Now to be fair, I am not wheeling my rig an added the hubs for some MPG gains. The install was simple they felt solid and had nice gaskets. Will see how they hold up with rain/light snow usage.

This winter I broke the center vents when it was cold. Found a replacement set on ebay and have to report that you CAN replace them without removing the dash. Not a simple swap and you end up destroying the old vents to get to the screws out with a L shaped ratchet screwdriver from Harbor Freight. I cussed a lot but got it done.

I also wanted to install the Gen 2.5 front bumper caps with the fog lights. This was a nice swap. My thinking was since oversees the 97 Pajeros had the fog lights the wiring would be behind the dash. Well, it is not. Now, I did install the factory fog light switch and wired it to operate fog lights anytime.

Next on the list of things to do is the dreaded heater core. Have one on order as the passenger floor mat has condensation under it. Its not sloshing wet, but I have a small leak. Being the job to remove the dash is time consuming and a weak overall heat output during winter, I am going to just replace the core. Found the core at RC Hill Mitsubishi in FL. They had the best price at 280. After that adventure I need to replace the valve cover gaskets. When I purchased the Montero, the upper engine was rebuilt due to failed timing belt and the PO stated he used aftermarket gaskets and they were leaking some. So, found some Mitsubishi gaskets on ebay and these will also be replaced. Already replaced the rear CAM seals. Another fun knuckle scraping project.

Overall been very happy with this vehicle. Its comfortable on long trips and with the new shocks should be even better. Regarding the manual hubs and MPG, think any gains were offset with going with 265-75 tires.
 

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PacS14

Adventurer
Can you explain more in detail how did you replace the center vent? Pictures if possible? I've been holding back on doing this very task because I have not had time to remove the dash. Thanks in advance!
 

Swank Force One

Adventurer
I've been holding off replacing my dash because i thought the center vent had to come out and i couldn't figure out how to remove it without destroying it. Wish i hadn't destroyed the LS center vent in the yard now. I have to do a wood-ectomy on mine instead now. Blah.
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
Been a while since I posted updates on my Montero. Today I replaced the KYB Gas-AJust for Bilsteins. Night and day. Was worth the change. Since I use the Montero for work travel, the ride is much better and the suspension has more controled movement. I also installed some Locking Hubs a few months back. While I did search for Asins, ended up settling on Chinese Brand for $80, they are YJDAP brand. Now to be fair, I am not wheeling my rig an added the hubs for some MPG gains. The install was simple they felt solid and had nice gaskets. Will see how they hold up with rain/light snow usage.

This winter I broke the center vents when it was cold. Found a replacement set on ebay and have to report that you CAN replace them without removing the dash. Not a simple swap and you end up destroying the old vents to get to the screws out with a L shaped ratchet screwdriver from Harbor Freight. I cussed a lot but got it done.

I also wanted to install the Gen 2.5 front bumper caps with the fog lights. This was a nice swap. My thinking was since oversees the 97 Pajeros had the fog lights the wiring would be behind the dash. Well, it is not. Now, I did install the factory fog light switch and wired it to operate fog lights anytime.

Next on the list of things to do is the dreaded heater core. Have one on order as the passenger floor mat has condensation under it. Its not sloshing wet, but I have a small leak. Being the job to remove the dash is time consuming and a weak overall heat output during winter, I am going to just replace the core. Found the core at RC Hill Mitsubishi in FL. They had the best price at 280. After that adventure I need to replace the valve cover gaskets. When I purchased the Montero, the upper engine was rebuilt due to failed timing belt and the PO stated he used aftermarket gaskets and they were leaking some. So, found some Mitsubishi gaskets on ebay and these will also be replaced. Already replaced the rear CAM seals. Another fun knuckle scraping project.

Overall been very happy with this vehicle. Its comfortable on long trips and with the new shocks should be even better. Regarding the manual hubs and MPG, think any gains were offset with going with 265-75 tires.

I was wondering when someone would post up after installing those hubs, kind of on the fence myself about ordering a pair.
 

plh

Explorer
Pretty sure the YJDAP hubs have been discussed years ago on the wire. YiJia is what should be searched.
 

Jarhead74

Observer
Regarding the center vents replacement, I did not take pics. I was thinking since I need to replace the heater core in 2 weeks, I can take some pics of the screws needed to be removed. I can tell you each vent has 2 screws. I only installed the top one on each side as I could not remove the climate control panel. That being said, besides the screws the vents snap into the vent tubing, so even with 2 screws missing its is tight and does not move at all. I will take pics of the area once I remove the dash. If you have specific questions on this, just PM me.

Regarding the manual hubs, I can't speak for the longevity as mine runs 90% in 2wd and when in 4Auto its heavy rain or snow. But for $75, it was worth a try.
 

Jarhead74

Observer
Gen 2 Heater Core

Wanted to share this before I start on my heater core replacement this weekend. So the new heater core came in. Thought it would be a little box. To my surprise everything was in a very large box. I purchased this new from the Mitsu dealer for 288. In the package you get the whole black box holding the heater core. It comes in 2 pieces with some clips. Regarding the heater core, looks solid. One thing I was glad to see is the pipes come off to be able to insert near the firewall. One one post here the owner stated could not install the new core without bending the tubes. Well, they come off with a screw. I attached some pics on the what came in the box. Will provide more info as I do the install.
 

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jaccox23

Adventurer
You shall hate life when removing the old heater core. Word of advice remove all things that touch the radio bezel. You'll see once you get the large part of the dash out if you remove the two vertical support beams you can then get the whole assembly out between the floor and the dash brace. Be careful when taking the black box apart to put your half on because the paddles that direct air flow are brittle. I broke one and gorilla glued it back together and its been fine but take extra caution with them. The black box you have is only half of the assembly. I know it's hard to believe but that vent box is a huge SOB. Any questions feel free to ask as I did this job just 4ish months ago. It's time consuming and a real pain but when you get it back together it'll melt your face off. It's not hard as long as you go in knowing be removing basically anything that can be removed. I kept trying to get it out before removing all the stuff surrounding the radio bezel so it was a learning curve. Take pics too lots of pics so you don't forget how something goes back in. And the new design is better than the old pipe design you'll see when you get in there. But I'll bet the heater core isnt what is leaking but rather the connection on the pipes held with a single clip. At least that's where mine was leaking
 

Jarhead74

Observer
Hating life. Started at 9am. Will update more in detail later but here is the core. Yup leaking like a champ.
 

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Jarhead74

Observer
Well here is the evening update. Overall not to bad, just time consuming. All I have left is to put the main dash in and front panels.

Big thanks to Jaccox23 for helpful info.

While I am not doing a complete write up, I will post the highlights and things that make this easier. 1st, there is a great YouTune video on removing the dash. Covers everything. To this I will add that you will need to remove the corner front trim to get the dash off. Also, the only cable from the HVAC that needs to come off is the center vent cable. Get that off the vent and after removing all the bolts the dash can be lifted off.

Now to the real fun. Removing the while Heater core box. After trying to be very gentle failed many attempts, had to put grunt force. This required destroying the old copper tubing from the old core. I removed the rubber connectors than broke off the copper. This will make it easier in pulling the box off. Keep in mind u have to disconnect the 2 heater hoses in the engine bay. If possible saw off the 2 copper tubes going through the firewall. Will make it much easier in getting everything out as these make it hard to pull out The rubber boot will come out and will be reused for the new cooper lines as they go through the fire wall.

The white box has 2 large bolts on top and 2 on the bottom. Believe 12mm. Jaccox23 gave a great tip in completely removing the center frame where the radio/HVAC controls sit otherwise the box will not come out. Major tip here. Loosen the 2 top bolts holding the condenser box and 1 on the bottom. (pic 3 has the 2 top bolts) Do not completely take it off, but get it plenty lose. This is the key in getting the heater box out but more importantly back in with the heater core in the box. Just to be clear here. No connections from the ac condenser were broken, so no release/evac will be needed. You are just moving it some to get the heater box in/out. Going back in is the real ***** as it goes in right end first then pushing in to get the copper tubes back through the firewall. With this new core design, I tried putting the tubes through the firewall 1st than connecting to the core as the new clamps work much better. The issue here is you cannot secure the tubes on the back of the heater box once in. Pulling the ac condenser box out was enough to snap it in.

Time for few beer and to reflect on the old heater core's demise. (Hope I can get all this **** back together without extra parts left over...)

Now is a great time to take some pics of the old heater box so see what parts on top will need to be moved. The controls on the left do not need to be touched as that part with the top flappers will be connected to the new black heater box. The box is held together with clips. In the new heater core package you also get new clips. Take your time as the flappers are old and can break. You also need to remove the 2 large flappers from the old box that will be trashed. I attached a pic of the new black box and what remains from the old unit. Take your time, use your pics and move everything over. Before installing, pull the cables to ensure all flappers work as needed.

In the morning I will hook up the batter and start the Monty to ensure the core connections are leak free, then install the dash back. I will take picks of the center vents and how they sit in there.

Vid link on removing dash https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyDP1QUncHg
 

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jaccox23

Adventurer
Happy to help. I see what you were talking about with the white box. My existing box was black as well so that's where I got confused earlier. My only white parts were the evap box to the right. A pic is truly worth a 1000 words
 

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