EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
I think I like it. It's more subtle than I expected.
EyeInTheSky's Gen 3 Budget Build Thread
- Thread starter EyeInTheSky
- Start date
SONICMASD
Adventurer
I think it's pretty cool, I've been debating the same mod as well. I know for sure that I'm going to do the recovery/tow points but have been debating on the skid plates for over a year. My concern was probably the same as yours, thinking they would be too in your face in red but you're right, it is pretty subtle.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
The hits don't stop coming
I had my alternator rebuilt in November...and it's failing. I noticed it was slow to start after sitting a couple days, and when I checked voltage it was quite low (thank god for a yellow top by the way). Started testing today, and lo and behold, .17a as it sat, .01 when I disconnected the alternator. Let's hope this shop honors their warranty.
Should I get it rebuilt again or just go with one the alternator guy has in stock? Also considering having them do the warranty work, selling it, and getting a high-output (150A) to replace it. Thought?
I had my alternator rebuilt in November...and it's failing. I noticed it was slow to start after sitting a couple days, and when I checked voltage it was quite low (thank god for a yellow top by the way). Started testing today, and lo and behold, .17a as it sat, .01 when I disconnected the alternator. Let's hope this shop honors their warranty.
Should I get it rebuilt again or just go with one the alternator guy has in stock? Also considering having them do the warranty work, selling it, and getting a high-output (150A) to replace it. Thought?
PirateMcGee
Expedition Leader
Buy a new OEM one....they're pretty cheap on Amazon.
Offroadmuch
Explorer
http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/2003-...ternator-alternator-alternator_M370480D-item/
Brand: Mitsubishi
Our Price : $270.72
Brand: Mitsubishi
Our Price : $270.72
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Let the good times roll
arb098
Adventurer
Let the good times roll
Ooooooh, those look nice. Links to the items?
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Scosche MI03B Wiring Harness (Metra 70-7003 would work as well)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331580811682
Unknown brand SU-4018 head unit. I wanted RCA video input, single DIN, and I was worried about longevity of the motorized screens. Two cons: no AM and no CDs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391817710752
Generic backup cam (with extension cords)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262979506262
Scosche SLC-4 line out converter (converts signal for factory Infinity amp)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252532315395
This is phase one. Down the road I plan on integrating a four channel DVR and installing one front bumper camera and at least one undercarriage camera.
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EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Definitely interested to see how this turns out. If it works well, I may completely copy the setup.
Curious on the Scosche SLC-4 line out converter - can you explain what this adds in addition to the harness/where you plan on wiring it in?
The line out converter is to convert the speaker-level signal from the head unit to a line-level (pre-amp) signal. This allows me to utilize the factory Infinity amp (including subwoofer). From what I understand (which may be way off base, so take it with a grain of salt), an aftermarket head unit outputs speaker-level signals (loud), while the stock head unit outputs line level signals (pre-amp, quieter). If you directly connect the speaker level signals to the stock amp, they will be way too loud and cause distortion, and possibly burn things up due to mismatched voltages.
There is an argument for bypassing the factory amp (see Crutchfield article), but I chose to keep mine in place for simplicity and cost. I'm also not trying to win any sound competitions. There are people who take car audio VERY seriously (arguing about sound staging and scoffing at tweeters that cost less than $80), but I'm not one of them. I want to play my tunes loud enough for me to hear over freeway noise with open windows with minimal distortion. That's it.
Here's a quick breakdown of audio levels.
Hope this helps.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Here's the wiring diagram from Scosche:
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Ah that makes sense, thanks for the detail!
I'm much more familiar coming the other way around, plugging instruments into pre-amps, or pre-amped channels of a mixer to get things up to appropriate levels to send through amps. Never even thought that aftermarket head units would be coming out already at speaker-level.
Attachment didn't end up working for me with the wiring diagram, but may be an issue on my side.
Seeing as you're already spoon-feeding me info as is, any chance that you're planning on documenting your install? :bigok:
I'm much more familiar coming the other way around, plugging instruments into pre-amps, or pre-amped channels of a mixer to get things up to appropriate levels to send through amps. Never even thought that aftermarket head units would be coming out already at speaker-level.
Attachment didn't end up working for me with the wiring diagram, but may be an issue on my side.
Seeing as you're already spoon-feeding me info as is, any chance that you're planning on documenting your install? :bigok:
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Attachment is fixed.
How about I give you the standard Haynes manual documentation?
Step 1: Remove two screws above radio.
Step 2: Remove radio.
Step 3: Install new radio.
Step 4: Replace two screws above radio.
But yes, I plan to do a little write up.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Success. Had to do some...customization to the mounting area, but success nonetheless. Details to follow.
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EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Parasitic Drain...again
As mentioned in a recent post, I'm (still?) having another parasitic drain issue. I traced it back to the alternator, which is pulling .17a (when I disconnect the positive from it, draw goes to .01a). No change in draw when pulling any other fuses.
Here's the thing, I brought it to the alternator shop that rebuilt it, they tested it, and claim everything is fine. I checked diodes with my multimeter and they seem OK (continuity one way, not the other between case and positive post). I ordered a cheap junkyard alternator from Ebay for test purposes (was going to install it and see if there was still a drain), but when I tested it last night, bad diodes (ugh, I have to pay return shipping).
So with that info, would it be possible that there's a wiring issue causing the drain, and not the alternator itself? Any other troubleshooting steps short of buying another alternator?
As mentioned in a recent post, I'm (still?) having another parasitic drain issue. I traced it back to the alternator, which is pulling .17a (when I disconnect the positive from it, draw goes to .01a). No change in draw when pulling any other fuses.
Here's the thing, I brought it to the alternator shop that rebuilt it, they tested it, and claim everything is fine. I checked diodes with my multimeter and they seem OK (continuity one way, not the other between case and positive post). I ordered a cheap junkyard alternator from Ebay for test purposes (was going to install it and see if there was still a drain), but when I tested it last night, bad diodes (ugh, I have to pay return shipping).
So with that info, would it be possible that there's a wiring issue causing the drain, and not the alternator itself? Any other troubleshooting steps short of buying another alternator?