USMC M1030B1 Restoration

Johnnny13

Observer
Got the bikes in today. They are both manufactured in June 1999 and the VIN states 2000 along with the USMC data plate. We started stripping them down. The plan is to sand blast and then powder coat the frame prior to painting everything in CARC tan.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    318.5 KB · Views: 111
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    116.7 KB · Views: 106
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    123.3 KB · Views: 107
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    132.3 KB · Views: 102
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    383.5 KB · Views: 109
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    125.1 KB · Views: 110

Johnnny13

Observer
Updated Progress

Almost got it all the way down to the frame. We are working on the "parts bike" now. Originally two were purchased with one being a "parts bike". We plan on getting both up and running. I found out that the rear skid plate is missing on one but we can get a fab shop to copy the one on the "good bike".
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0483.JPG
    IMG_0483.JPG
    129.8 KB · Views: 94
  • IMG_0484.JPG
    IMG_0484.JPG
    120.9 KB · Views: 95

Johnnny13

Observer
Most of the bolts are rusted on so the last few have been tough. I still haven't gotten the handle bars or swing arm off yet. I'm letting PB Blaster soak in overnight. It looks like the rear shock was a progressive 500/560. I know the newer version had the F1 engineering shock. I also ordered the stainless steel screw kit from Desmoparts. I will be replacing a few parts on the bike. I'm also going to use RAPCO 686 Tan. It's spot on for CARC. For the frame, bars, forks, and swing arm I'll sand blast and powder coat prior to painting.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4783.JPG
    IMG_4783.JPG
    100.1 KB · Views: 80
  • IMG_4827.jpg
    IMG_4827.jpg
    349.6 KB · Views: 81

Johnnny13

Observer
They don't come up for sale often. The latest sales I've seen are $3,500 for a ok running bike or $5,500 for a fully restored one. You might get lucky and find one on Craigslist for cheap. Sometimes people don't know what they have.
 

Johnnny13

Observer
Got it down to just the frame and swingarm. Everything was rusted on. It took some MacGyver skills to get the handle bars and triple trees off. Anyone have any tips to get the "dog bones" off the swingarm? I should have done it when the rearend was together. now it's much tougher to get any leverage on them. I'll have some free time later this week to hit it again. Then the frame is off to sand blast and powder coat. The other bike remains untouched but the frame appears to be recently CARC'd. My buddy is going to keep that one green and I'll go for tan.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4853.JPG
    IMG_4853.JPG
    110.3 KB · Views: 81

Modeler

W1DCS
Looking good so far. Please let us know how the Rapco paint goes on, I've read that they have a tendency to spit while spraying.
 

Cabrito

I come in Peace
Subscribed...

Not sure about how to get the dog bones off, but I'm sure you'll manage.

Can't wait to see the next steps.
 

Johnnny13

Observer
Looking good so far. Please let us know how the Rapco paint goes on, I've read that they have a tendency to spit while spraying.

I am in the process of using the RAPCO to paint a helmet. It does spit out from time to time. The good news is that it dries evenly. It tends to take month or two to really settle into that flat CARC like color.
 

Johnnny13

Observer
Finally got the dog bones off with a air impact gun. I'm still having trouble with the pivot bolt. I removed the nut but the pivot bolt isn't coming out. I even used a pipe and hammer trying to bang it out. Any one have any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4888.JPG
    IMG_4888.JPG
    67.5 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG_4884.JPG
    IMG_4884.JPG
    123.1 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_4883.JPG
    IMG_4883.JPG
    185.4 KB · Views: 58

Johnnny13

Observer
We also blasted off some of the handlebars. This USMC handlebars has mounts for the brush guard. The welds still look great. Until we can get the pivot bolt out we are moving on to the other bike. This one is in much better shape. It won't need to be stripped to the frame. Hopefully we can get it up and running and then move to paint.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4889.JPG
    IMG_4889.JPG
    150.6 KB · Views: 55
  • IMG_4890.JPG
    IMG_4890.JPG
    68.9 KB · Views: 58
  • IMG_4891.JPG
    IMG_4891.JPG
    67.9 KB · Views: 52

Modeler

W1DCS
I am in the process of using the RAPCO to paint a helmet. It does spit out from time to time. The good news is that it dries evenly. It tends to take month or two to really settle into that flat CARC like color.

Thank you for the feedback, I'll be using the 383 Green (AKA NATO Green FS34094) on the trailer I'm building over the winter.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,422
Messages
2,874,267
Members
224,711
Latest member
CarCaveUSA
Top