My fg84 Build, ironing out issues & new questions.

drol87

New member
I have built stage 1 of my truck now, and done a 3400km return trip to gnaraloo warroora and exmouth for a kite surfing trip with friends and my brother who has an imported Japanese 4x4 canter motorhome.

The trip was great the truck impressed the hell out of me and gave me a good idea of things I would like to add.
For this initial post I'll keep it brief.

*Edit to add some pictures*

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Basics = 2012 canter 4x4 mine spec bus conversion by all terrain warriors, running parabolics and single wheel conversion although I have chosen to change from the atw singles to goanna tracks 17s running 37" dynapros for my own reasons/experience.
A credit to ATW, these things are built tough, no expense spared and the build quality of there vehicles just made for a great blank canvas.
Everything on the truck built/installed myself with the exception of the gas and some of the cabinets where i had the cabinet maker assist.

Electrical:
- 400w of solar
- 2x 160AH fullriver batteries for house batteries
- 1000/2000w pure sine inverter, remote switched from the carling panel next to the door, I am also running a 240v auto changeover that will power up one circuit of the truck from the inverter when turned on, but will change supply to those powerpoints to shore power if you plug in.
- redarc bcdc40 for solar and alternator regulation
- ctek 240v battery charger
- 2kw MHI Air con (some might question the use of a commercial split system, but airconditioning/electrical contracting is my business and with the tray on the back this option was allot more economic/quiet and cost me basically nothing compared to an all in one under seat unit.)
- fiamma roof vent with the higher output fan (did not have time before this trip to have the marine slider windows installed)
- usb/12v points scattered around the van everywhere for phone/accessories charging
- Webasto fridge/freezer
- microwave (forget the brand possibly dometic)

Entertainment
- 32" 12v tv/dvd (I have also run usb and hdmi to the plate on the right hand side of the couch/bed for plugging in hdd's or a laptop to stream to the tv)
- alpine bluetooth stereo (TV connected to rear aux input also for better sound) running 2x sound stream splits

Lighting
- 4x 8w 12v downlights (typical sparky, overkill on the lights, will be installing a dimmer after testing on the first trip, great to have that much light available when cooking etc, but if lying down on the couch/bed they where to bright)
- LED low profile awning light
- Rear tray light bar
- 2x high beam light bars and 2x side angle lights for offroad (very handy finding suitable camp spots pulling into remote places in the dark, as well as just lighting up your surroundings more off road, future plans will see the light bars come off the roof and a rack installed with 4 high beam spot lights, and the angled side lights installed on the rack also.)

Living
- slide out toilet under right hand seat
- swing/swivel table drops into queen bed, 2 long back pillows make up the bed
- deep cupboard on the left of the bed provides a headboard plus a place to store blanket and pillows during the day, also handy for sitting phones/laptops on during the night to charge and be within reach.
- hanging cupboard on the right hand side for shirts etc.
- Tried to maximize storage wherever possible, found it to be more than enough for 2 people, even with 3 kitesurfing kites inside and my big fishing bag under one one of the bench seats as well as a big bag of my milwaukee/hand tools and the 18v milwaukee vacuum under the other bench
- silver Venetians on all windows except the door

Plumbing
- 300L drinking water
- Webasto dual top diesel heater (air heating and water) I have not actually installed this yet, time was tight before this trip and hot water is not a must up north (you can see the cutout for the controller near the switch panel)
- dual gas cooktop/sink combo
- dual spout tap, (water filter behind cabinet runs to the small second spout for water bottles)
- outdoor shower in the locked box next to the entry, for me this was a must, kitesurfing/snorkeling/fishing remote locations like waroora and gnaraloo this was great to rinse off and then step into a clean van, considering inside space is limited and a shower would not be good use of space.

NEXT STAGE BUILD PLANS
I will be removing the rear tray and most likely fabricate a canopy from scratch, something more to the same shape and height as the fiberglass bus body, adding boxes underneath the tray for recovery gear, and on board air and all painted white, and working out a system for a motorbike in the canopy as well as storage for my kite gear and bikes, aswell as a remote start genie, currently im just using the lockable toolbox on the tray for my kiteboards and a small portable genie although did'nt even use the genie this trip.
Unsure if I will go a completely enclosed aluminum canopy like the trademate style on my hilux, or a nicely fabricated tray with built in boxes and then framework with a canvas canopy. It all comes down to cost at the end of the day. A trademate with doors of that height would take some decent engineering/fabrication time.

Awning, This is waiting for the rear canopy really, because of the height of the vehicle i would like to put a full length fiamma wind out awning on, so i will need the rear canopy fabricated with a mount to support the awning.

Also will be adding a winch, looking at the 17000lb runva at this stage. (whatcharterboat maybe you could shed some light on this, can these ATW bullbars be modified to take a winch? has anyone done it?)

front bar work, brush bars going up the side of the windscreen to a luggage rack on the roof, with 4 spotlights fabricated in nicely and side lights.

relocate start batteries, and install pull out sealed bbq under fiberglass body.

end of build info edit**


My question, my truck is built light, under 4.5t, the truck went really well without low range, even on steeper crawls 1st was low enough, just one scenario In super soft shell sand I felt I would have liked the extra gearing of a low range reduction box. ATW has informed me Mitsubishi themselves can add low range for around 15k, I am wondering how hard it would be to do myself with say a reconditioned transfer case, when I say myself I basically mean with my mechanic doing the work with me, basically I am wondering what the big hurdles will be, is it worth 15k or could it be done allot cheaper/smarter, given the 4wd selection is push button, would driveshafts need customizing? Would the canbus computer accept the low range system. I am not a mechanical guru (sparky by trade) and by no means trying to cheap out, as nothing on these trucks is cheap. I just feel like 15k is steep, and if I can save some of that, that's more money that can be thrown at the second load of fabrication plans I have.

Second question, truck is speed limited to 100 for mining, this is annoying economy wise, on the long stretches up north I often found it braking on downhills where you would normally let momentum do it's thing for the next uphill to keep your speed up, what's involved in removing this?

Third question, power! (Not a huge priority) power upgrade suggestions for these trucks? Exhaust upgrade? Of course anything improving economy is a plus also.

Hopefully some of the gurus on here can help.
 
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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Second question, truck is speed limited to 100 for mining, this is annoying economy wise, on the long stretches up north I often found it braking on downhills where you would normally let momentum do it's thing for the next uphill to keep your speed up, what's involved in removing this?

Contact ATW, as I am pretty sure they would have arranged the speed limiting.
 

Amesz00

Adventurer
Sounds like you're in or near Perth? If so then I can recommend United fuel in Redcliffe for power upgrades. Had my 4.9L down there a few weeks ago, they did a remap on it. Huge difference, definitely would go either remap or unichip over anything else, so many more parameters to control.
 

drol87

New member
Sounds like you're in or near Perth? If so then I can recommend United fuel in Redcliffe for power upgrades. Had my 4.9L down there a few weeks ago, they did a remap on it. Huge difference, definitely would go either remap or unichip over anything else, so many more parameters to control.


Yeah I'm south of the river in Perth, what did it cost you if you don't mind me asking? And have you noticed any change in economy so far?
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I have built stage 1 of my truck now, and done a 3400km return trip to gnaraloo warroora and exmouth for a kite surfing trip with friends and my brother who has an imported Japanese 4x4 canter motorhome.

Yahoo. Winter swells at Gnarloo. What could be better!!!!

I am wondering how hard it would be to do myself with say a reconditioned transfer case,

A transfercase from what??? Only a current FGB71 transfercase will fit.

when I say myself I basically mean with my mechanic doing the work with me, basically I am wondering what the big hurdles will be, is it worth 15k or could it be done allot cheaper/smarter, given the 4wd selection is push button, would driveshafts need customizing?

Yep. FGB71 gearbox output shafts are completely different to other FG's. The cases of the single range 71 won't accept the dual range gears either........believe me when I say that many have already tried and given up.
.
Re: the $15k conversion. 4wd selection is easy, the labour for a mechanic (even from Fuso) would be relatively cheap and easy. The cost of the transfercase is the vast majority of the $15k conversion that some of the Fuso dealers have done.

Could the canbus computer accept the low range system.

Yep.

I am not a mechanical guru (sparky by trade) and by no means trying to cheap out, as nothing on these trucks is cheap. I just feel like 15k is steep, and if I can save some of that, that's more money that can be thrown at the second load of fabrication plans I have.

Couldn't agree more but where else are you going to find an FGB71 dual range transfercase. A friend found one at a dealer up in north Queensland after they had bought it into stock and the job fell through so they were stuck with it. So my lucky friend managed to save a couple of $k off retail doing this same conversion but that was like "winning lotto" odds. What would your chances be of finding one at a wrecker ... even a stuffed one? Sorry for being a pessimist.

Second question, truck is speed limited to 100 for mining, this is annoying economy wise, on the long stretches up north I often found it braking on downhills where you would normally let momentum do it's thing for the next uphill to keep your speed up, what's involved in removing this?

My opinion ..... Do not remove it yet. Contact Sgesco and ask them how much to to convert the 100kph speed limiter/ 80kph key lockout to a cruise control next time they have a tech over in the West. Your bus should have a VDO speed control unit up under the steering wheel somewhere.... and they were stupidly expensive ...... and with a quick reprogram of the module to remove the limits, unplug the key switch and plug the new cruise stalk into the same input socket and you should be in business.
.
BTW the 100kph speed limiter is a federal transport requirement for all buses on Australian roads. You should also have a 80kph or 60kph key lock out on the dash ....that's the mine spec and varies from mine to mine of course. Nearly all the mine buses built in Oz went to minehire companies who ordered vehicles with generic specifications .... even though some mine do not require speed limiters at all.

Please let me know how you get on. Anyway the digital VDO unit (that you already have hooked up to your canbus) makes for a fantastic cruise control compared to the old analogue kits.

Third question, power! (Not a huge priority) power upgrade suggestions for these trucks? Exhaust upgrade? Of course anything improving economy is a plus also.

Hopefully some of the gurus on here can help.

I'd go with Andrew's and Owen's advice. They definitely qualify as gurus.
 
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Amesz00

Adventurer
Yeah I'm south of the river in Perth, what did it cost you if you don't mind me asking? And have you noticed any change in economy so far?

Was 1500 or 1850 for a unichip. Yours being a completely different motor may well be different, most likely less. Unfortunately truck wouldn't fit on their dyno so no actual comparison numbers, only my before/after road tests. Haven't had it long enough to run a full tank thru it so unsure of economy difference yet.

John, do you know if anyone has tried getting a 2nd hand FE gearbox and just running a divorce Tcase on one?? Say a np205 or similar.
 
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drol87

New member
Yep. FGB71 gearbox output shafts are completely different to other FG's. The cases of the single range 71 won't accept the dual range gears either........believe me when I say that many have already tried and given up.
.
Re: the $15k conversion. 4wd selection is easy, the labour for a mechanic (even from Fuso) would be relatively cheap and easy. The cost of the transfercase is the vast majority of the $15k conversion that some of the Fuso dealers have done.

Couldn't agree more but where else are you going to find an FGB71 dual range transfercase. A friend found one at a dealer up in north Queensland after they had bought it into stock and the job fell through so they were stuck with it. So my lucky friend managed to save a couple of $k off retail doing this same conversion but that was like "winning lotto" odds. What would your chances be of finding one at a wrecker ... even a stuffed one? Sorry for being a pessimist.

I thought you might have all of the answers, this is basically everything I was unsure of, and you covered it all thankyou, if older transfer cases do not fit, then yep I agree, the odds of finding a reconditioned/wrecker FGB71 dual range case are lotto odds. Looks like having Fuso do the conversion is the go then. Might buy a lotto ticket also.

My opinion ..... Do not remove it yet. Contact Sgesco and ask them how much to to convert the 100kph speed limiter/ 80kph key lockout to a cruise control next time they have a tech over in the West. Your bus should have a VDO speed control unit up under the steering wheel somewhere.... and they were stupidly expensive ...... and with a quick reprogram of the module to remove the limits, unplug the key switch and plug the new cruise stalk into the same input socket and you should be in business.
.
BTW the 100kph speed limiter is a federal transport requirement for all buses on Australian roads. You should also have a 80kph or 60kph key lock out on the dash ....that's the mine spec and varies from mine to mine of course. Nearly all the mine buses built in Oz went to minehire companies who ordered vehicles with generic specifications .... even though some mine do not require speed limiters at all.

Please let me know how you get on. Anyway the digital VDO unit (that you already have hooked up to your canbus) makes for a fantastic cruise control compared to the old analogue kits.

This is awesome to know, That was another thought that crossed my mind mid-trip on the long runs, "I wonder how hard it would be to put cruise control in"
Yep I have a 60km/h lockout key on the right hand side.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
- 2kw MHI Air con (some might question the use of a commercial split system, but airconditioning/electrical contracting is my business and with the tray on the back this option was allot more economic/quiet and cost me basically nothing compared to an all in one under seat unit.)

Nope. Should be perfect.....but you might want to have a good look in the condensor unit and beef up any bracketry if required, add some extra zip ties, etc.... they weren't really made for corrugations but are usually easy to modify. Maaate, really impressed with the whole build (except the wheels, haha) so a sincere congrats to you on this so far.
.
Also will be adding a winch, looking at the 17000lb runva at this stage. (whatcharterboat maybe you could shed some light on this, can these ATW bullbars be modified to take a winch? has anyone done it?)
.
Nope. As the 2012 vehicle is fitted with airbags, any bullbar should be "airbag compliant" and the winch cradle and bullbar mounting brackets are critical to that compliance ..... so in my opinion, you would probably be better off selling yours and buying an ATW winch bar and Runva winch. Have you got any prices yet? ......... that is if you really want to go with a front winch. I've got exactly the same centre towpin bullbar as yours on my Fraser Island bus...... They are so easy for snatching if you've got another truck with you ....actually I had to use it yesterday when I ceased to go forward. We aren't allowed to get bogged, haha........ and maybe you could run with a rear winch that could double as a lift device for the motorbike in the planned canopy. Just throwing some more ideas at you mate.

Regards John
 
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drol87

New member
Nope. Should be perfect.....but you might want to have a good look in the condensor unit and beef up any bracketry if required, add some extra zip ties, etc.... they weren't really made for corrugations but are usually easy to modify. Maaate, really impressed with the whole build (except the wheels, haha) so a sincere congrats to you on this so far.
.

.
Nope. As the 2012 vehicle is fitted with airbags, any bullbar should be "airbag compliant" and the winch cradle and bullbar mounting brackets are critical to that compliance ..... so in my opinion, you would probably be better off selling yours and buying an ATW winch bar and Runva winch. Have you got any prices yet? ......... that is if you really want to go with a front winch. I've got exactly the same centre towpin bullbar as yours on my Fraser Island bus...... They are so easy for snatching if you've got another truck with you ....actually I had to use it yesterday when I ceased to go forward. We aren't allowed to get bogged, haha........ and maybe you could run with a rear winch that could double as a lift device for the motorbike in the planned canopy. Just throwing some more ideas at you mate.

Regards John

Thanks mate I'm really happy with it, it's somewhat simple with plenty of room to customise in the future.

Yeah I plan to pull the air con condenser covers off and check how everything is sitting after this trip.

Haven't looked into pricing of a ATW winch bar but have looked into the runva winch prices, will have to contact ATW in relation to the bar, I was eventually looking at running a rear winch also so maybe I'll look at doing the rear before the front. Although I was thinking that in the rear I would go for something like the new domin8r X winch, although haven't researched them much yet. As far as I can see the specs are the same 7.2hp motor as the runva 17000 except the reduction ratio on the domin8r is 218:1 that's half the reduction of the runva, hence the runva being rated to 17k and the domin8r x being 12k lb
being faster and mostly used for a backup / unloading / crane option as you mentioned, the domin8r x is a crazy cheap option, but probably not something I would rely on as an option for the front bar.
I also don't know if there listed specs are trustworthy.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Haven't looked into pricing of a ATW winch bar but have looked into the runva winch prices, will have to contact ATW in relation to the bar, I was eventually looking at running a rear winch also so maybe I'll look at doing the rear before the front. Although I was thinking that in the rear I would go for something like the new domin8r X winch, although haven't researched them much yet. As far as I can see the specs are the same 7.2hp motor as the runva 17000 except the reduction ratio on the domin8r is 218:1 that's half the reduction of the runva, hence the runva being rated to 17k and the domin8r x being 12k lb
being faster and mostly used for a backup / unloading / crane option as you mentioned, the domin8r x is a crazy cheap option, but probably not something I would rely on as an option for the front bar.
I also don't know if there listed specs are trustworthy.

Haven't looked at the Domin8r. The Runva are fine though. Sold probably a hundred of them while I was at ATW and can't think of one warranty claim ....... although the bolts and chrome would look pretty rusty almost a day after you mount them up. So operationally they seem fine. ATW import them straight from the manufacturer so not sure how they compare with pricing at Runva Australia.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
although the bolts and chrome would look pretty rusty almost a day after you mount them up.

The bolts on the Runva "look" like stainless, but they definitely aren't. Chinese winches are cheap for a reason...
On my 17,500lbs Runva I changed the grease for a known good extreme pressure type and replaced all of the bolts with 316 stainless ones.

The last time that I checked (which I must admit was a while back) ATW was only importing the 15,000lbs Runva with wire rope. Personally, I think the 17,500lbs Runva with synthetic rope is a better fit for these trucks.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Hi Moose

Yep. The first FGB71's (2012/13) have a single range transfer case..... Which is why so many are trying to change over to a dual range transfer as found in the current FGB71. Sorry if I caused any confusion.

Hi Owen. How ya doin? Regards John
 
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