Intech RV

doodlebugger

New member
Why I purchased an InTech XLT Flyer Base Model

I live in the heart of a city. I needed a way to get back to nature. I’m not one for sleeping on the ground, so I began my search to find a micro camper that I did not feel claustrophobic in and can tow with my little car. It is a 2016 Kia Soul Base model 1.6 liter, 130 HP, 6-speed standard transmission.

So, I looked to see the tow ratings. Guess what…? Not recommended for towing in the US… But there are provisions on the car for the attachment of a hitch – go figure... And, at least two hitch makers sell class I hitches for the car in the US (200 lbs. max tongue weight – 2000 lbs. max trailer weight.)

I found the tow ratings at Kia UK’s official website. My vehicle is rated (in the UK) for 1212 lbs. towing an unbraked trailer – didn’t want to put brake controller on the car...

Then, looking at my states requirements: NY trailer law states "Trailers weighing over 1,000 pounds unladen, and trailers having a maximum gross weight in excess of 3,000 pounds, must be equipped with brakes."

Additionally I found, many states add "or trailers that do not exceed 40% of the GW of the towing vehicle when connected to the trailer (unbraked).

Considering this information: I took 40% of my vehicle curb weight of 2700 lbs. to be conservative (not GW of 3600 lbs. as stated in law) 2700 lb. x 40% = 1080 lbs. So, my interpretation is that my vehicle can stop safely with an unbaked trailer of 1080 lbs. or less.

So using NY requirements, I am in search of a micro camper of 1000 of less - the choices were / are limited. I looked at the Little Guy MyPod, but found it claustrophobic and expensive. The makers other models I found too small for sleeping and / or bit too cute for my taste…

Then my dealer, Hartleys Auto and RV in Cortland NY recommended I look at an an XLT MAX Flyer. I loved it for the interior room – no claustrophobia… They said they had a base model of 850 lbs. arriving soon… Waited six weeks and bought it the day it arrived…

My maiden was a few days ago and loved it… I use my car for cargo as I want to maintain towing stability (keeping the cargo forward of the car’s rear axle). When I a camp I use the back of the car as a pantry.

The trailer and tows well on the highway with no sway - I can maintain 65 around central and northern NY, but have to downshift to fifth on hills. I have to go through the gears on locally steep grades and the trailer can push when braking down these steep grades. Downshifting helps but must be careful braking down steep hills.

Hope this helps any of the small car owners looking to tow a camper…
flyer02.jpgflyer04.jpgflyer03.jpg
 

AdventureHare

Outfitting for Adv
The Flyer XLT is about a foot too short, and the Plus is a foot too tall. Got anything inbetween? I'm leaning toward the Flyer XLT w/ off-road pkg for overlanding and astronomy usage. I like the built-in A/C w/ heater. Just wish the XLT was a foot taller so I could sit in a normal chair inside on those super cold nights.

This is why I was mentioning putting a RTT directly on the top and then cutting out the ceiling/floor, to gain an extra 40". And then throw some boards in for sleeping #3. Yes, it's an extra $3k but it's an off-the-shelf solution. Kinda a poor-man's Exodus 9.
 

SWITAWI

Doesn't Get Out Enough
This is why I was mentioning putting a RTT directly on the top and then cutting out the ceiling/floor, to gain an extra 40". And then throw some boards in for sleeping #3. Yes, it's an extra $3k but it's an off-the-shelf solution. Kinda a poor-man's Exodus 9.

Not to get OT, but I could swear I've seen pictures someone fitted canvas canvas on the popup lid of a Haulmark Flex for a similar idea. That would make the interior of the largest Flex model 4'10"Wx8'2"L with ~5ft 10in headroom at the rear.

Of course that's probably $4k-$5k new and you'd still just have a bare-bones box that's more pavement-friendly (10deg-Up Torflex axle/13in wheels ) and has no amenities.
 

1Louder

Explorer
My questions:

Could a Tibren axle be added down the road with some fabrication work? I like that the Dexter Axle is bolted one. I would like to increase the axle clearance as well as the frame.

I would like to put either 31" or 33" (what my vehicle has) tires on one. Would that be problematic? Fitting into the garage would not be an issue but I would want the trailer to be lower than my lifted FJ.

Could a different rack be installed at a later date? Like a Rhino or FrontRunner?

Could a 2" receiver be installed in front for a MaxCoupler or Lock-N-Roll without major modifications?

I would be interested in either the XLT or the Max.

Leaning towards the XLT for the shorter length. I would want it without the AC unit, no factory rack since I would eventually want something different and would lift it to put at least 31" tires.

Thanks! I have read through all the previous posts for ideas. I like the simplicity and potential for DIY mods.
 
Last edited:

Taylor1982

New member
I've really been looking at these as well. Thought the same thing about the off-road tires and those fenders. You would guess the off-road package would include some sort of better lift/clearance.
 

AdventureHare

Outfitting for Adv
Not to get OT, but I could swear I've seen pictures someone fitted canvas canvas on the popup lid of a Haulmark Flex for a similar idea. That would make the interior of the largest Flex model 4'10"Wx8'2"L with ~5ft 10in headroom at the rear.

Of course that's probably $4k-$5k new and you'd still just have a bare-bones box that's more pavement-friendly (10deg-Up Torflex axle/13in wheels ) and has no amenities.

Yup, I looked into those too but the price you're quoting is for the smallest (4x6x4) model. They're very expensive for what they are but it is an attractive starting point.

What's really driving my thoughts is the TVan, which has been in production for almost 20 years. Any design that can stay relevant for that duration must have something going for it: rear entry, fixed sleeping platform with storage underneath and 'deep' locations accessible from the outside.
 

Pressurized

New member
I've really been looking at these as well. Thought the same thing about the off-road tires and those fenders. You would guess the off-road package would include some sort of better lift/clearance.

I wouldn't be surprised to see either the lift kit or more likely the 45deg axle offered as an option in their 2018 models. I paid less than $50 for the lift and it took me about 90 minutes to install. Not a big deal in my book.
 

SWITAWI

Doesn't Get Out Enough
Yup, I looked into those too but the price you're quoting is for the smallest (4x6x4) model. They're very expensive for what they are but it is an attractive starting point.

What's really driving my thoughts is the TVan, which has been in production for almost 20 years. Any design that can stay relevant for that duration must have something going for it: rear entry, fixed sleeping platform with storage underneath and 'deep' locations accessible from the outside.

The TVan is pretty darn slick and I've always had a soft spot for the Conqueror UEV360 (Supra II in South Africa). But I also see the obvious appeal of a completely hard-sided sleep-in box like these IntechRV models and the Hiker/Lead Dog 'tearbox' trailers. No canvas to tear or wear over time. No canvas also probably equals better insulated interior space which also probably equals a quieter sleeping space as well. When Skersfan built his first 'Shuttle Pod' one of the criteria was his wife's requirement for a quiet, comfortable (temperature-wise) sleeping space. He said when they went to Surf 'N Turf with the trailer there was significant rain and winds but they slept right through it.

I wish a few American manufacturers would take some cues from down under. Intech's MAX kitchen slide-out is a great idea and well-executed, but I'd like them to look at expanding it into a multi-stage apparatus like the kitchen on the aforementioned TVan.

firetail_camper_price.jpg


I know these kinds things add complexity, weight, and extra co$t, but just one extra flip-out/pullout layer to hold a Coleman-style two-burner camp stove would allow replacing the existing two-burner location with a shallow sink.

Honestly I'd rather have a sink and onboard water tank because it's a LOT easier to set up for cooking separately. Just searching online for campsite cooking versus campsite washing will show the huge difference in available options between the two. When someone is already buying a trailer why not offer an option for something they can use but not easily get (sink+water) versus an option that everyone can buy at Wal-Mart (camping stove)? The Aussies almost seem to consider running water a camping necessity these days but for us North 'Muricans it definitely still falls into the luxury category in small trailers.
 

MrOffshore

Observer
Our 2018 models are coming out the first of August...we will offer a MAX Flyer without the kitchen...so you will pick up the extra foot of length you want over the XLT Flyer. We have a few details to work out on the interior cabinets, but it will also move the battery inside of the trailer instead of on the tongue. Look for updates on our Facebook page or website just after the first of August...this may be just what you are looking for!
The Flyer XLT is about a foot too short, and the Plus is a foot too tall. Got anything inbetween? I'm leaning toward the Flyer XLT w/ off-road pkg for overlanding and astronomy usage. I like the built-in A/C w/ heater. Just wish the XLT was a foot taller so I could sit in a normal chair inside on those super cold nights.
 

MrOffshore

Observer
So sorry for the delayed response, I've been out of the office on vacation and finally getting back to it. You could take off the 22-1/2° down axle and replace it with a 45° down axle and it would give you 2" of additional clearance and the axle would still be tucked up...if you added the #9 lift kit at this point, you would gain an additional 2-5/8" of clearance...the axle would not raise, but it would still be tucked higher than the center tube on the A-frame and shouldn't be in an area where it would be an issue. This option would also be direct bolt-on options...both of them. Otherwise you could unbolt the Dexter torsion axle, cut off the brackets that are welded on, grind it smooth and mount a Timbren suspension. You would need to get the details from Timbren on exactly what would be needed.

I can't tell you what it would take to put the 31" or 33" tires, but I believe it could be done without too much of an issue.

We have our frame prints on our website so you can see the backer in the roof where we mount our roof rack...this is on every trailer, even when you don't option the roof rack. You could mount something from Rhino Rack or Thule or another rack manufacturer without too much issue.

Our center tube is 2" wide X 3" tall (nominal) so one of the Lock-N-Roll or Max Couplers should mount directly to it...the holes we mount our hitch on go vertically through the tube...I believe the Lock-N-Roll and Max Coupler run horizontally through the tube...you might want to weld a plate over our holes, but I don't think that would even be necessary. If we had more interest in these couplers it might be something we looked into. The other issue that they require a car side to work...and we can't order it not knowing what drop they would need...so it's a little more complex than you might think, especially for a stock unit that a dealer would have on their lot.

Let me know if you have any other questions...thanks!!

Rich

My questions:

Could a Tibren axle be added down the road with some fabrication work? I like that the Dexter Axle is bolted one. I would like to increase the axle clearance as well as the frame.

I would like to put either 31" or 33" (what my vehicle has) tires on one. Would that be problematic? Fitting into the garage would not be an issue but I would want the trailer to be lower than my lifted FJ.

Could a different rack be installed at a later date? Like a Rhino or FrontRunner?

Could a 2" receiver be installed in front for a MaxCoupler or Lock-N-Roll without major modifications?

I would be interested in either the XLT or the Max.

Leaning towards the XLT for the shorter length. I would want it without the AC unit, no factory rack since I would eventually want something different and would lift it to put at least 31" tires.

Thanks! I have read through all the previous posts for ideas. I like the simplicity and potential for DIY mods.
 

MrOffshore

Observer
You have some strong points when it comes to the water...it's something we've given some thought to and while we won't be introducing it at the opening of 2018 (August 1), we will be considering it for something mid 2018. Right now it's an easy to put on a Road Shower (roadshower.com), I have it on my MAX Flyer and I love it. But, it would be nice to have some kind of sink with 5-10 gallons of water onhand an ready to use at any time. Thanks for the input, we love hearing this stuff!!

The TVan is pretty darn slick and I've always had a soft spot for the Conqueror UEV360 (Supra II in South Africa). But I also see the obvious appeal of a completely hard-sided sleep-in box like these IntechRV models and the Hiker/Lead Dog 'tearbox' trailers. No canvas to tear or wear over time. No canvas also probably equals better insulated interior space which also probably equals a quieter sleeping space as well. When Skersfan built his first 'Shuttle Pod' one of the criteria was his wife's requirement for a quiet, comfortable (temperature-wise) sleeping space. He said when they went to Surf 'N Turf with the trailer there was significant rain and winds but they slept right through it.

I wish a few American manufacturers would take some cues from down under. Intech's MAX kitchen slide-out is a great idea and well-executed, but I'd like them to look at expanding it into a multi-stage apparatus like the kitchen on the aforementioned TVan.

firetail_camper_price.jpg


I know these kinds things add complexity, weight, and extra co$t, but just one extra flip-out/pullout layer to hold a Coleman-style two-burner camp stove would allow replacing the existing two-burner location with a shallow sink.

Honestly I'd rather have a sink and onboard water tank because it's a LOT easier to set up for cooking separately. Just searching online for campsite cooking versus campsite washing will show the huge difference in available options between the two. When someone is already buying a trailer why not offer an option for something they can use but not easily get (sink+water) versus an option that everyone can buy at Wal-Mart (camping stove)? The Aussies almost seem to consider running water a camping necessity these days but for us North 'Muricans it definitely still falls into the luxury category in small trailers.
 

1Louder

Explorer
We have our frame prints on our website so you can see the backer in the roof where we mount our roof rack...this is on every trailer, even when you don't option the roof rack. You could mount something from Rhino Rack or Thule or another rack manufacturer without too much issue.

Sounds good

Our center tube is 2" wide X 3" tall (nominal) so one of the Lock-N-Roll or Max Couplers should mount directly to it...the holes we mount our hitch on go vertically through the tube...I believe the Lock-N-Roll and Max Coupler run horizontally through the tube...you might want to weld a plate over our holes, but I don't think that would even be necessary. If we had more interest in these couplers it might be something we looked into. The other issue that they require a car side to work...and we can't order it not knowing what drop they would need...so it's a little more complex than you might think, especially for a stock unit that a dealer would have on their lot.

What I would want is an open female end on the front for a 2" receiver. That way a MaxCoupler or others designed that way could fit. It sounds like that could be welded on the front with a minor modification.

Thanks,
Chris
 

kbahus

Adventurer
Super cool trailers! Looks like I have a new destination to check out as you are not far south of me, available Saturdays?
 

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