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Thread: LR3 OEM Locker intsall, is it possible?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Decatur AL
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    34

    Default LR3 OEM Locker intsall, is it possible?

    So I have an LR3, my only true love to date. I have found someone parting out an HD LR3 and he has said he could sell me the locker for $700 including shipping. I have other mods I planned on doing and a locker was never really one of them as the ARBs are pricey and as most suggest not really needed for our beasts as they are so good as they are, but now that I have came across this for this price, I want to know can it even be done? I read a little bit on someone asking this on a different LR forum and saw a couple differing of opinions, so I figured I'd ask the pros. Thanks for any info

    Colby Stanford
    19 Yr Old LR3 Owner (Lucy)
    Currently have:
    Baja Rack
    Cooper STT Pro, with matte gray plasti dipped OE 10 spoke
    4 Black magic Hellas on the rack
    dual battery

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Kailua, Oahu, Hawaii
    Posts
    831
    I'm no expert on the process but from what I know its a beast of a job for a non-LR3 to a HD-LR3. I was told once, but can't confirm that an LR4 is easy because its wired already and a flash gets you the software needed to coincide with the EAS/Traction Control. I do not have a locker in my LR3 and from what my uses are, if I needed one, I think I'm already too deep into something I shouldn't be in the first place. Slow and steady has gotten me out of everything I have needed, even when I made some big mistakes on going down something I was too heavy (fully loaded with RTT and top heavy) to get back up.......EAS/Traction control did the job for me. When I was stuck, a locker would not have gotten me out anyway.

    I guess my point is, what do you find yourself getting into with your rig where a locker is going to pay for itself over underbody protection and maybe a rear carrier set up would suite better for your $700? If you believe your uses warrant a locker, then hell yeah jump on it but the $700 is about the factory option cost without the work you have to put into the rig to make it work. I'd expect lots of time and more money than a factory option so at that point, ARB might be a better choice as you have a known good differential in the truck.

    I would spend the $700 on a GAP Tool and the remainder toward sliders first. If you need a locker, you definitely need protection first or you are going to regret not having the winch or tow strap to drag your busted rig off the trail/rocks and all the way to the tow truck site.

    I do not like to chime in on talking people out of things, but many members have saved me a lot of time and money with sound recommendations for useful and mandatory trail upgrades; I am just trying to share the wealth is all.

    Best wishes on your choice and Rover on my friend!
    #Victory_Overland
    Kailua, Oahu, Hawaii
    2008 LR3 SE (90K Miles)

    >>>Build Thread<<<

    Gap IID Tool
    Tactical Rovers bumpers
    FR Rack
    Melvill & Moon Seat Covers
    Nitto Terra Grap AT 255/60R18
    Traxide Dual Battery w/Solar
    ARB RTT and Awning

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Decatur AL
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Victory_Overland View Post
    I'm no expert on the process but from what I know its a beast of a job for a non-LR3 to a HD-LR3. I was told once, but can't confirm that an LR4 is easy because its wired already and a flash gets you the software needed to coincide with the EAS/Traction Control. I do not have a locker in my LR3 and from what my uses are, if I needed one, I think I'm already too deep into something I shouldn't be in the first place. Slow and steady has gotten me out of everything I have needed, even when I made some big mistakes on going down something I was too heavy (fully loaded with RTT and top heavy) to get back up.......EAS/Traction control did the job for me. When I was stuck, a locker would not have gotten me out anyway.

    I guess my point is, what do you find yourself getting into with your rig where a locker is going to pay for itself over underbody protection and maybe a rear carrier set up would suite better for your $700? If you believe your uses warrant a locker, then hell yeah jump on it but the $700 is about the factory option cost without the work you have to put into the rig to make it work. I'd expect lots of time and more money than a factory option so at that point, ARB might be a better choice as you have a known good differential in the truck.

    I would spend the $700 on a GAP Tool and the remainder toward sliders first. If you need a locker, you definitely need protection first or you are going to regret not having the winch or tow strap to drag your busted rig off the trail/rocks and all the way to the tow truck site.

    I do not like to chime in on talking people out of things, but many members have saved me a lot of time and money with sound recommendations for useful and mandatory trail upgrades; I am just trying to share the wealth is all.

    Best wishes on your choice and Rover on my friend!
    Thank you very much for the reply and "talking me out of it" isn't negative at all, was seeking advice and good advice was given. Have been on the lookout for sliders for a bit now, and spare tire carrier, just waiting on the right time

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Kailua, Oahu, Hawaii
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    831
    Quote Originally Posted by kissmywassp View Post
    Thank you very much for the reply and "talking me out of it" isn't negative at all, was seeking advice and good advice was given. Have been on the lookout for sliders for a bit now, and spare tire carrier, just waiting on the right time
    No worries at all. There are many more on here with much more technical experience on the task that might chime in with more accurate info. If I blow my diff, it might be good information to know as an upgrade then so I'll surely be paying attention because I think its a great thread to learn from.

    Rover on!
    #Victory_Overland
    Kailua, Oahu, Hawaii
    2008 LR3 SE (90K Miles)

    >>>Build Thread<<<

    Gap IID Tool
    Tactical Rovers bumpers
    FR Rack
    Melvill & Moon Seat Covers
    Nitto Terra Grap AT 255/60R18
    Traxide Dual Battery w/Solar
    ARB RTT and Awning

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NoVA
    Posts
    1,465
    My understanding for the LR3 is that you will need to wire in the loom to the e-dif and then somehow reprogram the vehicle in its new configuration which is something that, allegedly, the dealer can't even do so you'd have to get creative there likely with an aftermarket solution.

    Or put another way; it may be time and cost intensive after the immediate cost of the hardware.

    As discussed by our Hawaiian colleague a serious examination of the overall cost/benefit of having the locker for your intended usage is worthwhile. I'd note that over on my build thread when we were doing the side by side comparison of an EAS truck (with a locker) and my now coil sprung truck it was apparent that in some discreet situations the locker was the difference in where my counterpart's truck could get itself unstuck and, in theory, I could not-but that was a deliberate effort to get into multiple wheels off the ground articulations with little/no momentum & deliberate choice of a bad line to facilitate.

    Or put another way; no way I'd wheel the truck like that intentionally.

    That said, is the locker as a traction aid in something as heavy as a D3 or D4 very useful to make for less skinny pedal extraction (less violence of action = less chance of heavy vehicle breaking itself amidst the drama, or in the terms folks in my line of business use-have mechanical sympathy as much as possible to preserve for the times you can't); of course a locker is good.

    But good tires are the first step. Right behind that armor as needed on critical components, and after that I'd say a winch. Then traction aids...

    But that's my $.02.
    r-
    Ray
    2006 D3 "Saqr"
    1996 D1 5 speed "Coyote"
    1954 S1 "Riley"
    Twin Mountain Off Road

  6. #6
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    Mar 2015
    Location
    Decatur AL
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    Thank you for the reply! I will probably stick to going for the winch & skid plates next.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    SML, VA
    Posts
    234
    I have an LR3 with ARB rear Locker. I agree with all said above about priorities, even though Im lacking the winch. I have been ridding with HD-LR3's and the way it walked less strenuously over obstacles convinced me to add a rear locker. It works exactly as I hoped. The HD conversion and ARB were even in price. I chose an LR3 with aftermarket NAV, so OEM HD wasn't ever really an option for me. All things being equal, I also preferred the manual control of the ARB. Let me know if you have any questions.



    More pics mod history here: https://goo.gl/photos/2C3kHx515pRC7GSg9
    Some vids here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...fpU8eZu21k6xvY

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Herndon, VA
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    185
    One other thing to think about is that the LR3 with the factory rear locker has beefier rear axles/halfshafts. Since I guess others are running ARB lockers with the smaller axles and haven't reported any issues, it may not be a problem or necessary to swap them (assuming they are the same length and bolt pattern), but just keep in mind that LR designed them larger on the locked diff for a reason.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2015
    Location
    Kailua, Oahu, Hawaii
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmb6s View Post
    One other thing to think about is that the LR3 with the factory rear locker has beefier rear axles/halfshafts. Since I guess others are running ARB lockers with the smaller axles and haven't reported any issues, it may not be a problem or necessary to swap them (assuming they are the same length and bolt pattern), but just keep in mind that LR designed them larger on the locked diff for a reason.
    That's good info. I can't imagine the axles are different lengths but I wonder if the inner splines are different size and spline count?
    #Victory_Overland
    Kailua, Oahu, Hawaii
    2008 LR3 SE (90K Miles)

    >>>Build Thread<<<

    Gap IID Tool
    Tactical Rovers bumpers
    FR Rack
    Melvill & Moon Seat Covers
    Nitto Terra Grap AT 255/60R18
    Traxide Dual Battery w/Solar
    ARB RTT and Awning

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NoVA
    Posts
    1,465
    Quote Originally Posted by cmb6s View Post
    One other thing to think about is that the LR3 with the factory rear locker has beefier rear axles/halfshafts. Since I guess others are running ARB lockers with the smaller axles and haven't reported any issues, it may not be a problem or necessary to swap them (assuming they are the same length and bolt pattern), but just keep in mind that LR designed them larger on the locked diff for a reason.
    This is a first heard for me; do you have the different part numbers between an HD model half shaft and the standard?

    Given how the HD package locker works I'd be surprised if LR beefed up the rear axle since it is progressive and rapidly reverts.
    2006 D3 "Saqr"
    1996 D1 5 speed "Coyote"
    1954 S1 "Riley"
    Twin Mountain Off Road

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