LR3 OEM Locker intsall, is it possible?

Thanks for the quick reply! So I do have the HSE model with NAV. On eBay the locking vs non locking Diff. Prices are very similar. So it just comes down to if I want to pay more for the axels, & ECU module I assume? But basically you are saying that I should be good to go with the above listed additional parts correct? Having the locker function working with the 4x4 info screen to see when engaged would be nice, but not a deal breaker as long as the locker will engage when the computer thinks I need it. Probably going to check the ARB prices as well. Just weighing my options currently :)

No, not what I’m saying. What I’m saying is if you “don’t have” nav the bolt up is much easier. I believe with an Lr4, there is more to it because of the computer interface and nav pages.

I’d wait to hear from someone who knows the process 100% or call ARB and ask them what it takes to put a locker in a non-locker LR4. I would assume the process is similar.

I’m not positive that the LR4 is wired the same for locked or non-locker configuration so it may be more than just finding a plug and flashing the ECU.

I can guarantee you that with a Rover generation of LR3/4, you either have full function or no function because the traction control and EAS will not function at all with components that do not have full interface installed in the ECU.
 

kissmywassp

Observer
Well thank you very much Anglotron! I’m glad to actually now have access to a documented form of the conversion. I have no issue getting dirty & mad to install something myself, & after reading your directions, the only thing that terrifies me is all the new wiring work required. :0 but I am very grateful for your info, & a realistic aspect of what I’ll need for it to work. I’ll update eventually as to what I do, & maybe I can luck out some quality used parts as you did :) happy LOCKED rovering
 

anglotron

Observer
You're welcome! I already have HD on my LR3, but I like to tinker and would probably have a go at fitting it myself if I didn't. Keep us posted how it goes. Here's a few more I have.

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scooterforever

New member
You're welcome! I already have HD on my LR3, but I like to tinker and would probably have a go at fitting it myself if I didn't. Keep us posted how it goes. Here's a few more I have.

Bringing back an old thread. These pictures were great, if someone had a pict of the differential ECU mounted on the body that would be helpful to me, I'm having trouble finding the exact intended mounting location though this may be because I have only partially removed the left rear trim.

I'm wrapping up my install of the OEM nav (I wanted the 4x4 info screen) and then will turn to this build. I have the following parts:
  • HD package axle shafts
  • locking differential and motor
  • differential to frame wiring harness
  • differential ECU
  • differential ECU connectors and 6" of pigtails
The body wiring harness proved too difficult to find, but for $10 a junkyard sold me the connectors and pigtails to the differential ECU and with the LR3 electrical circuit manual I'm assembling my own wiring loom for this part.

I knew the differential itself was going to be a beast, but was still taken aback by its heft. Feels like 70-80 lbs. In order to lift it into place, I am going to use a low-lift transmission jack. The locking differential has an irregular, not flat, bottom, and so I made a cradle for it using 'Great Stuff' foam. Once the foam was modeled to place, I added dowels for structural support and then fiberglassed the top.

The other tools I've gathered are:
  • 5x120 hub puller to push out the axle shafts
  • exhaust clamps to push against to pull out the (rusted) exhaust sleeve using a scissor jack
  • E14 socket for prop bolts
For any that have done this build, and I realize it's a small group, any pointers on trouble areas would be appreciated.
 
Bringing back an old thread. These pictures were great, if someone had a pict of the differential ECU mounted on the body that would be helpful to me, I'm having trouble finding the exact intended mounting location though this may be because I have only partially removed the left rear trim.

I'm wrapping up my install of the OEM nav (I wanted the 4x4 info screen) and then will turn to this build. I have the following parts:
  • HD package axle shafts
  • locking differential and motor
  • differential to frame wiring harness
  • differential ECU
  • differential ECU connectors and 6" of pigtails
The body wiring harness proved too difficult to find, but for $10 a junkyard sold me the connectors and pigtails to the differential ECU and with the LR3 electrical circuit manual I'm assembling my own wiring loom for this part.

I knew the differential itself was going to be a beast, but was still taken aback by its heft. Feels like 70-80 lbs. In order to lift it into place, I am going to use a low-lift transmission jack. The locking differential has an irregular, not flat, bottom, and so I made a cradle for it using 'Great Stuff' foam. Once the foam was modeled to place, I added dowels for structural support and then fiberglassed the top.

The other tools I've gathered are:
  • 5x120 hub puller to push out the axle shafts
  • exhaust clamps to push against to pull out the (rusted) exhaust sleeve using a scissor jack
  • E14 socket for prop bolts
For any that have done this build, and I realize it's a small group, any pointers on trouble areas would be appreciated.
I've got a body harness. I might be up for pulling it out of this truck (if it doesn't sell whole next week). If thats something your still interested in.

If I can get around to it this weekend, Ill get a photo of the mounting location for the ECU.
If its a removable mount, I can probably pull that off as well.
 

Valguard

New member
I hate continually resurrecting an old thread, but this one pops up on Google searches and the subject is "gaining traction" given the falling prices of LR3s.

Just to be clear:
1. The locking and non-locking diffs for the V8 have the same gear ratio. Right?

2. While the CVs with the locking are beefier, they are still the same size and spline fitting as the non-locking, making the two interchangable. Right?

If the above are true, the two diffs could be interchangable, no problem. The main trouble it seems, is getting the locking diff to work. Everyone seems to want this to work with the factory traction control.

Why not just control it manually?

Would it be possible to just rig up a switch to the e-diff which would activate the clutches? Since the computer for the e-diff is external, I'd think you could just power the e-diff directly and lock it up. This would make it functionally the same as an ARB. (People don't have problems with those messing with the traction control do they?)

Could anyone who's done a swap confirm that this is possible? Does someone have a pinout or something of the e-diff?

If possible, this seems like a no brainier if you could simply source an e-diff for a reasonable price.

Edit: Not as simple as an on/off switch. It's essentially a large servo controlled using PWM. There might be some kind of motor break involved too? To hold the proper degree? Either that or a sustained pulse with resistors to control current draw? I suppose you could build your own controller, but we'd need more info about the OEM one. And after all that... Seems retro fitting one as posted earlier would be simpler.

I guess at a minimum, one would have to know the current draw required to hold the clutches at 100%. Design a circuit that draws only that current and you'd have an on/off function. When off, the force of the ball/ramp assembly and clutch pack wanting to uncompress would move the gear back to a neutral degree.

I don't know though. It all sounds very hot. If anyone actually goes down this road I'd love to hear about it.
 
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morrisdl

Adventurer
Might be worth investigating...One of the things I like most about my ARB locker is that it is manual on/off.
Seems like a lot less stress on the drive train for it to engage BEFORE its needed. I prefer less drama.
 

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