1997 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 Budget Overland Build

davkenrem

Observer
This thread will document the build of my 1997 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 Budget Overland Build.

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In July of 2015 I was browsing Craigslist looking for an inexpensive Chevy 4x4 to replace my dying 99 Tahoe Z56. It had begun to nickel and dime me and was literally rusting away. I stumbled on the following ad:

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This ad really intrigued me because they said the truck has almost know rust and I figured I could sway the rear from my rusty Tahoe. (More on that mistake later). I contacted the seller and they sent me some more pics. Apparently the seller had purchase this truck on ebay. He lives in Indiana an purchased the truck in Michigan. While driving the the truck home it broke down in Toledo, where I live. The left the truck here in Toledo in storage, drove home and advertised it on craigslist.

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After seeing these pics I made an appointment with the seller to look at the truck. I could tell from the pics that the truck was filthy but solid and no visible rust. Actually, from the pics I could tell where they had stored the truck,it was less than 2 miles from my house. I drove over to the Uhaul Self Storage lot I recognized from the photos and gave it a look through. The truck had real potential. I met with the seller the next and checked the truck over very carefully.

Drivers door needed pins

Power steering hose need replace

Front leather seats both in bad shape but all electrics worked.

Engine sounded good but Flowmaster was very loud.

Professionally installed alarm with remote start.

Under carriage show now sign of have been exposed to road salt. Dusty and dirty but no rust underneath.

No rust I could find on the body, some pealing paint on the hood and roof but basically not bad shape.

I made a deal for the truck and paid $625.00 for it.

After 15 months of slowly making changes this what it looks like today.

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In the coming posts I'll show you what I've done so far to get to this place and what I plan to do in the future.
 
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davkenrem

Observer
So now I own this thing. After driving it in the parking lot, I was pretty sure it was the rear end making the noise. So I chance driving it home and at 35 mph the rear is singing a tune. I figure, no biggie, I git a rear end in the 99 Tahoe at home I get it home and start looking at things and realize my mistake. The Tahoe is a Z56. That is the 2WD, 5 lug Pursuit Rated Police Package 10bolt rear. The Suburban is a 4WD, 6 lug 12 bolt rear end. No swap.

First order of business. Inspect differential to see what is actually wrong.

[video]http://vid668.photobucket.com/albums/vv44/ahwwwjeah/1997%20Chevy%20Suburban%20K1500/0725151418_zpsbzd7b9wr.mp4[/video]

In the video, I call the ring gear a pinion gear, I do know the difference, brainfade...

Anyway, I end having a new Ring and pinion installed for $700.00. I know, I know, I should found a 14bolt SF. Well you live and learn. I have one now that I'm prepping to go in. Maybe I'll finish it this winter and have it ready to go in this spring.
 

davkenrem

Observer
The previous owner had painted the factory wheels black and they had be gun to peel badly.


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I purchased an aerosol paint remover, coated one wheel at a time and hosed most of the paint off. A plastic scraper cleaned the remaining stubborn paint. I sprayed them with a Matte Clear coat to protect against corrosion and they have done fine.

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Next I tackled the the pealing paint on the hood and roof of the truck. The very front edge of the hood was peeling and had some light surface rust and the roof was peeling and faded all over. I didn't want to have the truck repainted. It was going to get scraped and scratched in the wood, didn't make sense to spend money on paint. So I thought I would try some bed liner paint. I purchased a quart of POR15 bedliner paint and gave it a shot. I prepped the surface, masked it off and rolled it on.

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And yes I fixed the little gap on the right.
 
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davkenrem

Observer
The Carpet was in just filthy and stained. When I pulled it up I was disgusted, the floor boards had begun to rust. Most likely from snowy feet soaking the carpet and the jute backing. I ripped all the carpet out and wire brushed away all the surface rust. There was not any place where that was was rusted through so I coated the front floor boards with POR15 and POR15 Bedliner.

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POR15 applied to drivers floor pan.

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Passenger floor board POR15 and Bedliner applied.

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Drivers side floor board POR15 and Bedliner applied.

I then ordered rubber flooring for the front and rear seating area from RockAuto.com

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Though not pictured, I did install sound deadener under the rubber flooring. Makes for a quiet ride.
 

davkenrem

Observer
In 2005 my best friend helped me build a truck vault for my Tahoe. This was an easy swap over to the Suburban. Bolted right in.

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davkenrem

Observer
I think the next thing I did was install a Superlift 4-6 inch lift kit and 35" Tires. I paid to have this installed so I don't have any photos.



I replaced all front end parts With Moog Problem Solver.

Superlift K270B lift lit $1,158.76
Rock Auto Front end parts $274.84
Offroad Customs Install $865.00
BFG All Terrain T/A KO2 (315/75R16) $911.80
SS Brake Lines $99.95
Sway Bar End Links (Front) $63.98
Front End Alignment $75.00
New Front Calipers $53.98

Total $3,503.31




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The truck drives incredible now. Straight and True. Smooth, no vibration in the wheel. It is great.
 
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Bojak

Adventurer
Great looking burb. I love this body style GM. I love square bodies more but these are a close second. These are a lot easier to live with. I covered my seats with some wet okole seat covers and highly recommend them. Keep up the good work.
 

davkenrem

Observer
I ended up getting a set of cloth front seats from a Tahoe and covered them with Tan Carhart Seat covers. Pics to come...
 

Treybiz

Observer
It is a solid truck for the price, I have over $7000 in it now but has been a great canvas to start with.

I'm interested to hear what you think of the lift. I've got the exact same lift new in the box to put on either my 98 Extended Cab Z71 or 96 Tahoe 4x4.
 

davkenrem

Observer
Well, Like everyone I wished I had gone a little higher. It's set at about 4" right now and will go to 6". The CV's are nearly flat. I'd like to crank it to 6"and see how the CV's look, but honestly I don't need it. But other than that it has been great. I took it out a couple of weeks ago and beat it pretty hard with no issues. The ground clearance is good other than the Torsion Bars but I'm sure it will be good for Overlanding with no problems. I got the Bilstien shocks and they ride great. I was amazed how smooth it rode after the lift. The new front end parts really helped. I'd like to find some Real Lift Torsion Bar Relocators but they are out of business. I have a 14Bolt Semi floater I'm prepping to go in and planning on using a shackle flip and new springs to mount it. I'm thinking that combo may come closer to 6" then I can crank the front to match. I really don't want to stress the CV angles too much and not interested in a a SAS in front. Last March I took it up in Michigan on a buddies property with about 18" - 20" of snow and it walked through it with no problem. The ground clearance and BFG's made light work of it. I didn't want the wider track that you get with a Knuckle lift. Would have liked to own Rancho's lift for GMT400's but it is out of production. You will be happy with the lift.
 

Bojak

Adventurer
Second on the torsion bar relocator, but I can't find them yet. If I find 2 sets I'll let you know.
 

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