Keeping it simple -02 Tacoma "build"

pnw_chris

Observer
They are worth it with the lift just for the fact that it gets the caster back in check and drives a lot nicer because of that. Not sure if it made a notable difference performance wise but daily drivability with everything back at factory spec is nice.
 

pnw_chris

Observer
I've used a lumber rack on my work truck for 10 years and we load it heavier than I can ever imagine you would and have never had an issue. But we also use keep the tailgate in the closed position when we are doing so. I do have a bar that will attach on each side at the top of the bed sides if needed but rarely use it. I've seen others that remove the tailgate completely and have issues w/ the bed sides. But YMMV.


Thanks pyrate that's exactly the info I was looking for. I think im going to just brace the rear to add long term stability for when the tailgate is open. A little overkill wont hurt even if its just for my piece of mind ;)

On the front of the rack I think im just going to run a cross bar and (something like below but welded to the bed rack) to hold cans and at the same time it will box strengthen the rear.

IMG_2255.jpg
 

pnw_chris

Observer
Welded up a couple simple mounting points for my traction boards. Then found a simple little cable lock at home depot for $6 to make sure no one walks off with em. Mounting them rearward will give me access to the water jug in the front of the bed. Just need some free time to build up mounts to organize the fuel/water cans.

IMG_2304.jpg
IMG_2312.jpg
 

pnw_chris

Observer
Had some time last night to start putting bed storage together. Its just tacked together right now but I'm liking the setup. Ill still need to add some braces and tie down points.

IMG_2325.jpg
IMG_2324.jpg
IMG_2323.jpg
 

04dblcab

Observer
Bedliner has been on since just after the truck was new. For some stupid reason they didn't do the top of the bed rails though.

Hahaha I'm stupid. Didn't see it was a spray on I thought the angle iron on the bottom of the bed rack was the plastic liner that goes over the rail. It looks like you have a drop in factory bed liner is what I thought.
 

pnw_chris

Observer
Minor update. Got tired of the paint chipping behind the bumper and the washer fluid reservoir hanging so low so I did some trimming. I think it looks more astatically pleasing this way also. I will be installing a 93 t100 tank in the engine bay this weekend to replace the oem one I took out.

(more crap dark cell pics)
IMG_2356.jpg
FullSizeR.jpg
 

pnw_chris

Observer
Drove over the pass this weekend to go visit CVT to scout out a RTT and pick up an awning.

Made a pit stop along the way to rally around some back roads...
IMG_2465.jpg
IMG_2467.jpg
IMG_2444.jpg

Got home and installed the awning with hose clamps to the bed rack. This will be a temporary mounting solution as I plan on mounting it off the RTT when we pick one up.

IMG_2448.jpg
IMG_2449.jpg
 

98tcoma3rz

Observer
Nice build! I'm looking to swap my ADD to manual as well. So Im guessing you have to swap the front diff tube to manual? How does the truck do with the 33's and stock gearing?
 

pnw_chris

Observer
Nice build! I'm looking to swap my ADD to manual as well. So Im guessing you have to swap the front diff tube to manual? How does the truck do with the 33's and stock gearing?

Yes you have to swap the diff tube. It is attached with some weird star bolts so I would look at those and purchase a socket ahead of time to save yourself some headache.

Truck does quite well on 33's. I noticed a power loss from stock but was actually quite surprised on how little it was. That said I'm debating on changing to a 10.50 wide tire when these wear out, half for looks and half to see if it makes any power difference with a little less weight and rolling resistance.
 

digitalferg

Adventurer
Actually, you do not *have* to swap that diff tube... you can keep the ADD one in there... Lotsa folks have done it both ways. If you swap the diff tube to the manual one, the advantage is that you are not counting on the ADD actuator on the side tube any longer and the passenger side shaft is "straight" through, like the drivers side. Hard to explain without looking at the diags or the parts, but yeah, hopefully that is clear as mud for ya. Heh.

Great build, btw!
 
Last edited:

pnw_chris

Observer
Actually, you do not *have* to swap that diff tube... you can keep the ADD one in there... Lotsa folks have done it both ways. If you swap the diff tube to the manual one, the advantage is that you are not counting on the ADD actuator on the side tube any longer and the passenger side shaft is "straight" through, like the drivers side. Hard to explain without looking at the diags or the parts, but yeah, hopefully that is clear as mud for ya. Heh.

Great build, btw!

Ah yes you are correct. My ADD gave up the ghost so I just gutted everything outside of the front diff and replaced it with the manual parts. :)
 

pnw_chris

Observer
Small updates, nothing to exciting I'm sure!

Mounted quick fists to hold the axe along the bedrail using the rack to bed mount hardware. Ended up being perfect height for the axe as the tip of the head touches the wheel well but has a rubber cover over it so it should be fine. I have a different mounting solution in the mail for the shovel. We will see how it works out when it shows up.
IMG_2483.jpg
IMG_2484.jpg

Removed the 15yr old TRD bed decals, what a PITA. A heat gun and goo gone helped though. Put on PNW Edition decals I got from a tacomaworld member.
IMG_2482.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,912
Messages
2,879,541
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top