80 Series Front Swaybar disconnects, do they help?

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
I have found with your front swaybars disconnected you will get a minumun of 15% more travel. With the rear connected and front disconnected you will see and feel smooth balance flex. Keeping you wheels on the ground offers safety and traction during off road travel.

Showing off my flex on my 80 series camper with the front swaybar disconnected and rear swaybar connected.:ylsmoke:

Your flex ability may not be the same as shown and will vari with every set up but you will see and feel a differance with swaybars disconnected.
 

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LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
One's he makes. ;) I just got a set.

I look forward to your review.



I only disconnect on trails that require a lot of articulation. Trails that require a lot of articulation pose a danger for those with front swaybars connected. It is not uncommon for the factory swaybar bracket on the axle to break under heavy trail articulation. When it happens it can take out your brake lines. Been running and testing 80 series swaybar disconnects since 2004.

Just finished HITR trail and one of the 80 series did not have swaybar disconnects, he now has swaybar disconnects.:smiley_drive:
 

eurosonic

Expedition Leader
I don't have any sways in the front, but still curious on how the connected on factory application. Saw your link, well done!
 

Pokey

Adventurer
If you run firmer aftermarket springs.....you can delete the swaybars altogether imho

if you are going to be alot heavier than 5200lbs total weight you might want to stick with them.

I run a 5200lb one without a front one. and also have a 4200lb one with no front or rear swaybars and it handles better than the other 80with bars
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
If you run firmer aftermarket springs.....you can delete the swaybars altogether imho

if you are going to be alot heavier than 5200lbs total weight you might want to stick with them.

I run a 5200lb one without a front one. and also have a 4200lb one with no front or rear swaybars and it handles better than the other 80with bars

It's good to hear about the chassis working well without sway bars.

Any pics of your lightweight?

I am building a FJ45-esk hybrid on an 80 chassis and need to delete the front bar...and was wondering about deleting the rear bar ( or swapping in a lighter version ).
This thing should be sub-4000lbs I hope....
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
It's good to hear about the chassis working well without sway bars.

Any pics of your lightweight?

I am building a FJ45-esk hybrid on an 80 chassis and need to delete the front bar...and was wondering about deleting the rear bar ( or swapping in a lighter version ).
This thing should be sub-4000lbs I hope....


As a rule most vehicles will benefit from sway bars on the road, sight the reason they come on everything made with 4 wheels these days. If you are not able to use factory 80 series swaybar and find the need this ►http://www.tk1racing.com/◄ option can make swaybars happen on any vehicle.

Do you have a thread on your hybrid?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
As a rule most vehicles will benefit from sway bars on the road, sight the reason they come on everything made with 4 wheels these days. If you are not able to use factory 80 series swaybar and find the need this ►http://www.tk1racing.com/◄ option can make swaybars happen on any vehicle.

Do you have a thread on your hybrid?



Thread on this board is here...

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...-FZJ80-FJ45esk-GM-Land-Rover-crazy-concoction

It's basically an 80-series chassis with a custom FJ45-esk pickup body and an aluminum 5.3 LS, 6spd auto, LT230 transfer case, and 40s.

One of the goals was to keep the suspension very close to stock. I am still running stock springs, but the reduction in sprung weight has given it about 1-2" of lift over stock. I raised the engine/trans/t-case up in the chassis for flat to the frame belly. Sneaking the swaybar under the new engine position would be a little clunky.

Yup, road going rigs are better off with swaybars, but we all know how that has a detrimental effect on off road performance. The design of the factory front suspension with the radius arms have some anti-sway capability built in. By adjusting the stiffness of the bushings you can also tune back in some sway control. With so much weight reduction, and hopefully a very low COG overall, I hope that I can get by without the front swaybar. Hopefully some good shocks will help that out also....

Having a data point or two of people running without anti-roll assist front and/or rear is interesting.

Cheers.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader


Thread on this board is here...

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...-FZJ80-FJ45esk-GM-Land-Rover-crazy-concoction

It's basically an 80-series chassis with a custom FJ45-esk pickup body and an aluminum 5.3 LS, 6spd auto, LT230 transfer case, and 40s.

One of the goals was to keep the suspension very close to stock. I am still running stock springs, but the reduction in sprung weight has given it about 1-2" of lift over stock. I raised the engine/trans/t-case up in the chassis for flat to the frame belly. Sneaking the swaybar under the new engine position would be a little clunky.

Yup, road going rigs are better off with swaybars, but we all know how that has a detrimental effect on off road performance. The design of the factory front suspension with the radius arms have some anti-sway capability built in. By adjusting the stiffness of the bushings you can also tune back in some sway control. With so much weight reduction, and hopefully a very low COG overall, I hope that I can get by without the front swaybar. Hopefully some good shocks will help that out also....

Having a data point or two of people running without anti-roll assist front and/or rear is interesting.

Cheers.

Have you reached out to Gary Coberly on what he is doing on his 45 hybrid?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Have you reached out to Gary Coberly on what he is doing on his 45 hybrid?

I remember seeing the build back in the day.

I built the 45-esk tub from a 40 I chopped behind the door. I wanted something smaller so I pinched the floor and took all the taper out past the front of the door. This gave me a 56" wide tub. I also scooted the entire body back as far as possible to push the front axle forward. This let me drop the overall height a lot....basically no lift. With the weight reduction I gained a wee bit though.....but the final build out isn't done yet.

Cheers.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
I remember seeing the build back in the day.

I built the 45-esk tub from a 40 I chopped behind the door. I wanted something smaller so I pinched the floor and took all the taper out past the front of the door. This gave me a 56" wide tub. I also scooted the entire body back as far as possible to push the front axle forward. This let me drop the overall height a lot....basically no lift. With the weight reduction I gained a wee bit though.....but the final build out isn't done yet.

Cheers.


WOw over the top build
will look forward to the finish
 

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