CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
Our trusty old Suburban just turned past 200k miles, and with 3 three kids wifey wants a newer Suburban to replace her 528i and our 2000 Sub for road-trips and hauling kids. This truck has been all over the country on paved and dirt roads. We drove to Fairbanks a couple years ago, top of Mt Washington last summer, frequently explore Death Valley, Canyonlands and other fun Southwest destinations. It runs great so after a couple interesting conversations I got a green light from wifey to turn our trusty old beater into an overland adventure vehicle, only catch is that I am only allowed to spend $1,000 on all the upgrades. Initially it seemed unreasonable to even try, however after stumbling on Dirt Every Day's Ford F354 Monster truck YouTube video I re-gained my confidence and came up with a new game plan. With a little bit of eBay and Craigslist luck and lots of elbow grease and beer this might actually work.
Not so blank canvas to start with. 2000 Suburban 4x4, 5.3l, 3.73 gears, towing package. 275/65R18 (32.1X10.8") tires. Which do not rub on 100% stock truck. Not sure what the backspacing is on the 18" rims. Roof rack which carries 600-700lbs of gear has 4 Yakima 58" cross bars, 4 Yakima RailGrabs, 6.5ft by 36" cargo basket and Thule 6 ski cargo box. 36" light bar for which I cut a hole in the grill to mount when I drove to Alaska.
This is a pic after the level kit was installed, only picture I have of the truck at stock height is below with the 37" tire for reference.
GAME PLAN:
Giant tires that are too big for the truck
Little or no lift that will not fit the tires properly
4.10 or lower front and rear gear with rear lockers
Ability to cruise 4x4 Jeep trails in 2WD
What I have done so far:
Found 2 17" rims with 37x13.5 Toyo Open Country tires and 2 17" rims with 37x12.5 ProComps on Craigslist for $250. They got a lot of wear on them but for the price the Weld Racing 17x10" rims are more then worth it alone. Now I have to figure out how to put them on, (insert evil laugh here)
Level kit:
Ford Torsion keys: $18, 3" rear coil spacers: $33. Skyjacker Hydro front H7009 (stock length) and H7017 (3" longer than stock) in the rear: $115
I used the local shops loaner tool program to rent the torsion bar unloading tool and McPherson strut compressors to install the Ford torsion keys and 3" rear coils spacers. Initial front fender height: 35", rear: 36" (it's a Chevy thing). When I adjusted the Ford key screw to my original screw height, front fenders came up to 39.5" and the rears came up to 38.5". I am jumping for joy about to pee my pants. 4.5" from the keys alone. After a quick break in drive around the neighborhood with that set up and nitrogen shocks, I felt like I was inside a paint shaker in Home Depot, new front suspension travel = 2.5" = we are going back down. Adjusted the front fender down to 37.5" and the ride is still harsh but tolerable. Put in new stock length oil hydraulic front shocks, because the front was leveled not raised. Added new oil hydraulic rear shocks that are 3" longer then stock, rear spacer actually raised the back end. Now the ride is as smooth as stock ride with nitrogen shocks. Front fender height 37", rear fender height 38.5".
Before and after level kit. 37" tire is for reference.
Cheapest $33 eBay spacers work just as well as any $200 CNC machined aluminum ones, I got pictures and a 2,500mile story to prove that.
Had to go to a used tire place to trade my fancy chrome lug nus for some acorn style that fit into the new rims, and the new shoes can finally go on.
32"s with level kit on top and 37"s with level kit below. Have more space between top of tire and bottom of fender with level kit and 37"s then I did with 32"s before the level kit.
As you might have already guessed, fender clearance is a little tight with the 37"s. Fender trimming and pocket fenders will be the next project in a couple months. Here is how much clearance 37x13.5 in the rear and 37x12.5 in the front have.
Damages so far:
$250: wheels and 37" tires
$115: Skyjacker shocks
$33: 3" rear spacers
$18: Ford torsion keys
TOTAL: $416
$584 remaining
Next steps:
I know I have to get the tie rod reinforcement sleeves and 2" or 3" wheel spacers to clear the frame rails and suspension parts. I know that I need to cut 3"-4" into the fenders to clear the tires. That might be the next project before I decide if the Sub needs a 3" body lift, based on the stock wheel to fender gap and the current wheel to fender gap I do not see a need for a body lift provided enough of the sheet metal is cut away. In the mean time I am looking out for a front diff with 4.10 gears and a rear axle with 4.10 gears on eBay or at a junk yard for a good price to stay within my budget. 37" spare tire will not fit in the stock location so I'm going to figure out how to get a 20-25gal gas tank in the spare tire well.
I'll add to the thread when more parts go on the truck or we go on our next adventure.
Not so blank canvas to start with. 2000 Suburban 4x4, 5.3l, 3.73 gears, towing package. 275/65R18 (32.1X10.8") tires. Which do not rub on 100% stock truck. Not sure what the backspacing is on the 18" rims. Roof rack which carries 600-700lbs of gear has 4 Yakima 58" cross bars, 4 Yakima RailGrabs, 6.5ft by 36" cargo basket and Thule 6 ski cargo box. 36" light bar for which I cut a hole in the grill to mount when I drove to Alaska.
This is a pic after the level kit was installed, only picture I have of the truck at stock height is below with the 37" tire for reference.
GAME PLAN:
Giant tires that are too big for the truck
Little or no lift that will not fit the tires properly
4.10 or lower front and rear gear with rear lockers
Ability to cruise 4x4 Jeep trails in 2WD
What I have done so far:
Found 2 17" rims with 37x13.5 Toyo Open Country tires and 2 17" rims with 37x12.5 ProComps on Craigslist for $250. They got a lot of wear on them but for the price the Weld Racing 17x10" rims are more then worth it alone. Now I have to figure out how to put them on, (insert evil laugh here)
Level kit:
Ford Torsion keys: $18, 3" rear coil spacers: $33. Skyjacker Hydro front H7009 (stock length) and H7017 (3" longer than stock) in the rear: $115
I used the local shops loaner tool program to rent the torsion bar unloading tool and McPherson strut compressors to install the Ford torsion keys and 3" rear coils spacers. Initial front fender height: 35", rear: 36" (it's a Chevy thing). When I adjusted the Ford key screw to my original screw height, front fenders came up to 39.5" and the rears came up to 38.5". I am jumping for joy about to pee my pants. 4.5" from the keys alone. After a quick break in drive around the neighborhood with that set up and nitrogen shocks, I felt like I was inside a paint shaker in Home Depot, new front suspension travel = 2.5" = we are going back down. Adjusted the front fender down to 37.5" and the ride is still harsh but tolerable. Put in new stock length oil hydraulic front shocks, because the front was leveled not raised. Added new oil hydraulic rear shocks that are 3" longer then stock, rear spacer actually raised the back end. Now the ride is as smooth as stock ride with nitrogen shocks. Front fender height 37", rear fender height 38.5".
Before and after level kit. 37" tire is for reference.
Cheapest $33 eBay spacers work just as well as any $200 CNC machined aluminum ones, I got pictures and a 2,500mile story to prove that.
Had to go to a used tire place to trade my fancy chrome lug nus for some acorn style that fit into the new rims, and the new shoes can finally go on.
32"s with level kit on top and 37"s with level kit below. Have more space between top of tire and bottom of fender with level kit and 37"s then I did with 32"s before the level kit.
As you might have already guessed, fender clearance is a little tight with the 37"s. Fender trimming and pocket fenders will be the next project in a couple months. Here is how much clearance 37x13.5 in the rear and 37x12.5 in the front have.
Damages so far:
$250: wheels and 37" tires
$115: Skyjacker shocks
$33: 3" rear spacers
$18: Ford torsion keys
TOTAL: $416
$584 remaining
Next steps:
I know I have to get the tie rod reinforcement sleeves and 2" or 3" wheel spacers to clear the frame rails and suspension parts. I know that I need to cut 3"-4" into the fenders to clear the tires. That might be the next project before I decide if the Sub needs a 3" body lift, based on the stock wheel to fender gap and the current wheel to fender gap I do not see a need for a body lift provided enough of the sheet metal is cut away. In the mean time I am looking out for a front diff with 4.10 gears and a rear axle with 4.10 gears on eBay or at a junk yard for a good price to stay within my budget. 37" spare tire will not fit in the stock location so I'm going to figure out how to get a 20-25gal gas tank in the spare tire well.
I'll add to the thread when more parts go on the truck or we go on our next adventure.
Last edited:
