M-416 Build

[socaljeeper]

I am not a fan of spray liners on exterior surfaces. If it were mine, I'd do the best body work I could to repair the blemishes and then paint it. I haven't tried to do body work on metal coated with a spray liner on both sides, but I imagine it would be a hassle. Paint is relatively easy to repair.

As for powdercoating the frame and fenders, why? As noted in another current thread, proper preparation is critical (and adds to the cost). Also, powdercoat can and will get rock chips. It seems to me that semi-gloss black paint for the frame would be the most cost effective and the easiest to repair in the future. As for the fenders, I would paint them to match the trailer (or contrast if you like the look).

My two cents.

Thanks for the input robert. I have never done any body work and when it comes to painting I tend to be sloppy. Maybe I will take it to a paint shop to see what they would charge me. I want it to come out nice.

As for the powder coating you are correct about the additional cost and potential for difficult repairs. I do like the final finish of power coating though and it is more durable then paint. But with some of the pricing im getting for powder coating I may just use paint.

 

[Robert Bills]

I have never done any body work and when it comes to painting I tend to be sloppy. Maybe I will take it to a paint shop to see what they would charge me. I want it to come out nice.

I had mine painted at a local "One Day" that was trying to get business from my local jeep shop. The manager had me talk to an employee who had a new baby and needed extra work, who did all of the prep after hours and off the clock for cash. That kept the cost down and enabled me to ensure that no short cuts were taken. As for "One Day" paint work, it is average at best, but if you are specific as to what you expect and insist that they use quality paint and multiple coats, you will get a servicable paint job at a reasonable price. After all, these are offroad trailers that will get scratched and dented so it doesn't make much sense to put a lot of money into the paint. (There are no runs, sags or thin spots in my paint job and I can repaint my entire trailer three times at "One Day" or "Maaco" for the cost of one paint job at a high end paint and body shop.)

 

[socaljeeper]

Does any one have any input on what type of covering to use for the underside of the trailer tub after I get is sand blasted?

 

[Robert Bills]

Many people like POR-15 covered with a coat of flat or semigloss black. I haven't used the stuff so I can't offer any advice.

I have always had sandblasted surfaces primered with a sandable primer immediately after sandblasting to prevent surface rust. That will give you some time to do any metal work before shooting another coat of primer and then the paint of your choice. There are many different primers available - your local automotive paint store can steer you in the proper direction.

When I painted my trailer in 1966 (when my father owned it), I used a zinc chromate primer (a rust preventative), with sandable primer over that, and then the color coats. When I acquired the trailer from my father in 1998 the paint was still in relatively good shape with no rust. Unfortunately the EPA won't let you have zinc chromate primers anymore, at least not with enough zinc to do much good. However, I am told that there are fewer restrictions for aircraft paint than for auto paint and that a company called Aircraft Spruce sells a decent zinc chromate primer. I believe they have a location near the Chino airport.

 

[bigdog]

I love the offroad pictures! It looks like it's willing to follow that Jeep anywhere, and the shorter tub seems to match the Jeep better. I like that idea over some of the longer tonques.

As for paint, what I did was immediatly apply a thick industrial primer over the sandblasted parts. Then sandable primer over that. My experiance with sandable primer is that it is pourous, so it does not really provide the type of rust protection you want, until you get the top coat on it. But once you've got it sealed, the sandalbe primer is better to work with in preperation for the topcoat.

I like powdercoat too, but in this application it will chip and then your stuck. So I prefer a hammer paint or a textured paint, then you can always lightly sand and touch up when you get back from the trails.

One thing to remember is that it is a 40 year old trailer. So no matter what you do it is gonna have some "character" I sandblasted mine to get 40 years of paint chips off of it, and to deal with any serious rust. Then paint to make it look "good enough" I like the hammered look, or the textured paint cause it will cover some of the wrinkles and keep it rugged. Also easy to touch up and keep it clean and rust free. Anyway, that's my theory.

 

[socaljeeper]

Plan B

After seeing others extend the tounge on the M-416 I decided to do the same. Completely dismantled the M-416 and I started the extension a few days ago. I bought a lock & roll hitch and used 2"X3" rectangular tubing. I also bought a Tradesman tounge box to put the battery and all other electrical components. I plan on relocating the two jerry cans to the front of the tub, simliar to how adventure trailer does. I also purchased a rectangular cooler that is narrow and long, about the same size at the AT water tank, that would fit perfect behind the jerry cans. Here are some pics of where i am out now.

 

[GeoTracker90]

Looking good. I'm interested in why all of the angles, but I'm going to guess that the reasons will become self evident when you get it all assembled with the planned changes. Keep up the good work!!

Mike

 

[ntsqd]

I too am curious about the angles in the tongue.

 

[socaljeeper]

I too am curious about the angles in the tongue.

I wanted the tounge box to sit on top of the tubing rails. So in order to do that we made the first set of angles to match the width of the back of the tounge box. To gain more clearance between the front of the tounge box and the rear of the jeep, we did another angle break at the front. When hitched up to the jeep, it can do more than a 90 degree jack knife without even hitting the rear bumper of the jeep. I will show more pics when it is back together.

 

[ntsqd]

I would like to suggest that there be a cross member at each set of joints. Under load the tubes will try to spring in and out, and will work the welds. A set of similar thickness as the tube wall 'fish plates' at each joint, preferably top & bottom but particularly on the bottom, would also be my recommendation.
Apologies if those are already on the yet-to-be-done list.

 

[the dude]

As for the powder coating you are correct about the additional cost and potential for difficult repairs. I do like the final finish of power coating though and it is more durable then paint. But with some of the pricing im getting for powder coating I may just use paint.

Nope, it's not. The reason some "think" it's more durable is because of the prep required before paint and the need of an oven after paint to cure it. If you take the same care and attention with liquid paint, you can achieve similar results.

On a broad statement (comparing apples to apples) the chemistry of liquid paint is very similar to powder after both have been fully cured.

Think of it this way, you can go to your local hardware store and get any old can of black paint and spray that dirty, rusty, oily "thing" that you wife wanted painted black. It gets left outside and takes three weeks to cure. It cost you $2.99 for the rattle can of paint.

If you take that same part to the powder coaters, they will wash it (up to 7 stages) and they may blast it. It will be applied with a $1500 gun using 50 cents of paint and baked at 375* for 20 minutes. It will be fully cured when it come out of the oven. It's going to cost you $100

If you do the same prep for the liquid, (sand blasted it/wire brush it/wash it) (wiping with thinner is NOT washing) and buy a can of primer for $5.99 and apply three coats of primer and a couple of the black, set the item in a garage at 72*+ for seven day, you will be very pleased with the results. And it will still cost you under $10.00 with a little bit of elbow grease...

 

[socaljeeper]

Thanks fro the info Brad. I decided to do just that, get it blasted and paint it my self. Why do you need to wire brush it after blasting and what is the best way to wash it correctly?

 

[jsrlx]

Where are the new pics!

 

[dawsonc61]

Sweet @ss M416! Lots of great ideas! Keep the pics coming!

Also, Do you plan on adding fenders at some point? It looks bad@ss without but i was just wondering.

 

[socaljeeper]

Sweet @ss M416! Lots of great ideas! Keep the pics coming!

Also, Do you plan on adding fenders at some point? It looks bad@ss without but i was just wondering.

Thanks. Fenders are done. I will upload some updated pics tonight.