Planning on building my own pop-up from ground up.

lindy74

Member
Hey all,
So I own a 2013 Tundra double cab and I have been searching for a truck camper that will fit into my payload capacity. While I'm sure the Tundra can handle more than it's rating, I'd prefer to play it safe and have my insurance cover me in the event of an accident. My welding ability is above average and I have seen quite a few builds on the internet to inspire me to give it a go. Not to mention it will be nice to have it exactly the way I want it. The only part that worries me is creating a functioning "pop-up". I have seen a few different styles, and even spoke with ATC and can purchase the arms that work the lift itself. What I cannot seem to figure out is how to make the roof bed into the top of the camper. I'm assuming it's some sort of channel or track with the roof overlapping the walls. Any thoughts or input on this?

Thanks in advance,
Jason
 

wanderer-rrorc

Explorer
My solution was simple and very effective..overlap the top and a small rubber skirt.. In my build in my signature

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 

fireball

Explorer
I'll be interested to follow along.

Did you consider getting a bare bones shell from ATC and just building it out how you want? It's a pretty reasonable price to let a company with years of proven experience do the important part! I would be surprised if your base build was any lighter than theirs unless you're using a markedly different method.
 

lindy74

Member
I did consider that option. First off being the fact that this project will be over the course of about 6-7 months as I work overtime shifts to pay for this project. Second being I really wanted to do this myself as something I can look back on at the end and wonder ****** is this thing I made, or hopefully, damn that's awesome!
 

Boardman

New member
RVs built on Toyota chassis are rare and expensive
I have been thinking of the same build for my 05 double cab Tundra.
You could buy a used pop up truck camper with a good top for $2000 with all the appliances included.
Strip off the skin and extend the wall frame to fit on a custom lower flat deck.
Cover with 1" freezer wall panels, extend past the floor to running board height so it looks more like of a conventional RV and use the space for storage.
They make glue on corners to cover the butt joints.
The panels are similar to working with plywood but have 1" insulation and metal or composite on each side and are the same price and weight as plywood + aluminum.
Install modern doors & windows
Install airbags and use them to support the extra weight and to raise and lower the back of the truck for loading and unloading.
Put vertical 2x2 square tubing on the corners in the frame extension, use a smaller size inside so that it drops down to the ground with a trailer pin to keep it up and extended.
My Tundra has a full roll down back window so I could match that on the inside for a horizontal pass through.
That's todays dream, yesterday it was a school bus conversion
You just hate to give up your sweet Toyota pickup for an E350 diesel money pit.
 

lindy74

Member
One question, would MIG welding be sufficient for building the aluminum frame? I have never stick welded or tried TIG.
 

wanderer-rrorc

Explorer
unless you have had aluminum welding training classes...its probably the most difficult thing to weld..and the machines must be setup specifically for it....


Ive been welding almost 20 years and Im not good enough at it to even try...
 

rruff

Explorer
Hey all,
So I own a 2013 Tundra double cab and I have been searching for a truck camper that will fit into my payload capacity.

I can't help you with your pop up questions, but I'm building a camper on a 2016 DC long Tundra. Mine will be tall enough to stand in and mounted to the frame. No pop ups for me! Do you really need the short roof? I'm guessing you are planning a slide in?

Welding aluminum isn't that easy, but you don't need an aluminum frame. Foam and fiberglass (or light ply) is the light way to do it, and the insulation is great as well.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
Cover with 1" freezer wall panels

Where are you sourcing the freezer panels? I have been casually looking. Haven't giving much thought to a well insulated camper until I moved back to the North country. Was considering a FWC or ATC, but from research, seem like they don't do well in cold climates.

Also thinking of just finding a reefer slip-in...or even a reefer trailer, all the construction work is done....insulated insanely well....all you would have to do is to cut in some windows. Maybe cut in a poptop.

I keep on seeing one selling bad cuts of frozen meat on a 4WD Tacoma running around here, and it is giving me ideas.

Not the truck I have been seeing, can't seem to get my phone out fast enough to take a photo. But you get the idea. Thinking it would be great for winter camping, remove the freezer unit, and replace it with a heater.

Mini-Cube-11-1500x750.jpg

Slip-In-Side-View.jpg

I am finding used reefer units for around $5000.

Make a poor man's Uro-Camper?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/105740964@N05/sets/72157639592526825/

images.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
I would be careful with panels that are made for freezer rooms. They most likely would not withstand the dynamics of driving on rough roads. Another thing to consider is the panel thickness, a reefer truck body most likely has up to 4" thick walls, you will have trouble finding doors and windows for that thickness.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
I would be careful with panels that are made for freezer rooms. They most likely would not withstand the dynamics of driving on rough roads. Another thing to consider is the panel thickness, a reefer truck body most likely has up to 4" thick walls, you will have trouble finding doors and windows for that thickness.

Was wondering how well the foam would hold up.

The ones I am looking at already have a door. Can't you just fab up frame for the window sit in? At least that was my plan.
 

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