Offroad trailer build on 40's.
- Thread starter Keith B.
- Start date
So adjusting the Timbrens for Camber and Toe In took quite a while. A slight movement changes it so much that I spent about 2.5 hours getting it right. I had to use the spacers to get the camber right, but in the end everything turned out good.
It was back to the metal store for more stuff and welding gas today, so that burned half my day. Then I worked on the frame for the box getting it exactly square. I wanted to make sure the gaps on the sides of the tailgate were exact. It came out really nice with good gaps and pretty square.
The fenders are going to just hook to the support fox the box since there isn't much extra room with the 40s.
It was back to the metal store for more stuff and welding gas today, so that burned half my day. Then I worked on the frame for the box getting it exactly square. I wanted to make sure the gaps on the sides of the tailgate were exact. It came out really nice with good gaps and pretty square.
The fenders are going to just hook to the support fox the box since there isn't much extra room with the 40s.
Attachments
I started on the lid today.
I used another piece of 1.5 square for the base of the lid, and clamped it to the tub so it would be square.
Then I made a template for the lid rood so I could clamp the pieces to it when I welded them so it would be pretty close to the same every time.
Then I made all five cross pieces. They came out pretty good.
I also made the backing plate for the tire carrier. I used a little bigger drill bit then needed for the holes. I then bolted it to the wheel and tacked it together. This way the holes all lined up exactly.
I used another piece of 1.5 square for the base of the lid, and clamped it to the tub so it would be square.
Then I made a template for the lid rood so I could clamp the pieces to it when I welded them so it would be pretty close to the same every time.
Then I made all five cross pieces. They came out pretty good.
I also made the backing plate for the tire carrier. I used a little bigger drill bit then needed for the holes. I then bolted it to the wheel and tacked it together. This way the holes all lined up exactly.
Lucky j
Explorer
Wow. Nice built, but I am a bit confuse. In your firts post, you were wondering why some built seemed oberbuilt. As of were you are, I think you are past that point. It will be heavy,meven before adding all you equipment. And you are taliking hydraulic lift on top of that, so you are talking pump, motor, reservoir and actuator. This will be really heavy.
Nd4SpdSe went for electric actuator, i was going for pneumatic using the jeep OBA or even a bike pump, some are simply using gaz struts with some manipulation to lift and lower the RTT. Way lighter.
My trailer was built with 1x2" 1/8. A little small, I was not on site when the builder made it and I was desapointed some, it as a recever tube from front to mid lenght and the front and rear as 1x1 vertical framing that holds folded metal sheet, all welded together. It as hold w/o any issues for twenty years of back roads, hard wood stove duty, camping, and more. Actualy on 34" but could be on any size, and It is already on the heavy side in my mine for adevnture travel even when empty. Made a adjustable height rack (but no lift system yet) that I use for kayaks, RTT and more. With long receiver tube, extendable tongue, very patrical for long canoe, kayaks and other stuff that would be to long.
You have a very nice built in progress and can't wait to see the result. Just wanted to point out the overbuilt concerne that you add.
As for the RTT, like Nd4.. Already said, the RTT is quick, confortable and you never have to prep the ground and pull your slleping gear in and out of it. Upgrading for this to me was an off raod teardrop. But still have the trailer, the RTT and plan to keep them all.
You can find multiple topic about why a RTT here on portal. It will be easier for you to do a quick search.
Ah yeay, for me the receiver tube all the way front to back is a very good idea. It form a back bone the give structure and a recovery point from the jeep almthe way to the back.
Nd4SpdSe went for electric actuator, i was going for pneumatic using the jeep OBA or even a bike pump, some are simply using gaz struts with some manipulation to lift and lower the RTT. Way lighter.
My trailer was built with 1x2" 1/8. A little small, I was not on site when the builder made it and I was desapointed some, it as a recever tube from front to mid lenght and the front and rear as 1x1 vertical framing that holds folded metal sheet, all welded together. It as hold w/o any issues for twenty years of back roads, hard wood stove duty, camping, and more. Actualy on 34" but could be on any size, and It is already on the heavy side in my mine for adevnture travel even when empty. Made a adjustable height rack (but no lift system yet) that I use for kayaks, RTT and more. With long receiver tube, extendable tongue, very patrical for long canoe, kayaks and other stuff that would be to long.
You have a very nice built in progress and can't wait to see the result. Just wanted to point out the overbuilt concerne that you add.
As for the RTT, like Nd4.. Already said, the RTT is quick, confortable and you never have to prep the ground and pull your slleping gear in and out of it. Upgrading for this to me was an off raod teardrop. But still have the trailer, the RTT and plan to keep them all.
You can find multiple topic about why a RTT here on portal. It will be easier for you to do a quick search.
Ah yeay, for me the receiver tube all the way front to back is a very good idea. It form a back bone the give structure and a recovery point from the jeep almthe way to the back.
Its funny you say that because I was just thinking that last night. It is way too easy to go crazy. I have tried not to, but it is impossible. I misspoke on the "hydraulics", as I meant gas struts on the lid. I am not using a RTT, as I have 5 kids, and need two tents anyway, so it makes more sense just to use ones on the ground.
I like yours.
That thing is a tank! I went only a little overboard and it still comes to 1200lbs loaded for a trip.
Used 2x2x1/8 for the inner frame and tongue and 1x2 for where the box comes out around the fenders and side rails. Used 14 guage steel skin and floor.
Same size and shape as a f150 short box as I have a tradesman canopy made of aluminum and fiberglass top.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
Used 2x2x1/8 for the inner frame and tongue and 1x2 for where the box comes out around the fenders and side rails. Used 14 guage steel skin and floor.
Same size and shape as a f150 short box as I have a tradesman canopy made of aluminum and fiberglass top.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
The wheels alone on this thing combined are over 400 pounds(with the spare), so I was overbuilt before I started. But that is why I have a LS3 in it.
So I got more done on this today. I welded on the hinges, and then added the gas struts.
Here it is open
Here are the struts.
I also added the roof rack. I bought a rack with an extension and then welded it together.
I wanted it removable, or so that I could add a different rack, so I used tabs on the cross pieces, and then bolted it on.
Here it is open
Here are the struts.
I also added the roof rack. I bought a rack with an extension and then welded it together.
I wanted it removable, or so that I could add a different rack, so I used tabs on the cross pieces, and then bolted it on.
Black Series Campers
New member
Not a lot of up travel there before the tire hits the wheel well. I just quickly glanced over this, but is there a reason you want to drag the weight of the 40's on a trailer? 35's or 37's would save you a significant amount of weight?
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
I am glad someone else noticed that was close to top of fender well. Have you bottomed it out or measured the distance to the bump stops? Curious as to why it only has so little up travel and what would it be with a fully loaded trailer.
I went 40's with the same exact wheel in case I needed spares, and I had the tires. It isn't really for spares on the trail, but at home as well. Plus, it is cool that they totally match.
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There is 4 inches of up travel above the tread. The fender sticks out over the edge of the wheel were there is not tread so the frame of the fender is a little closer there. According to Timbren they compress no more than 2-2.5 inches, so I still have room. The pictures are deceiving.