Thinking of replacing all rubber in rear suspension on LR3

DVD

Adventurer
I think my recent trip to Death Valley and the awful washboard roads gave my rear-end suspension a quick trip from bad to worse. I'm getting clunks and occasional hops and such after the trip. The vehicle has 152,000+ miles and all the rear control arms and bushings have never been changed. I'm not sure the exact cause of my noises, but I'm thinking with the mileage and our continued offroad use, it would be a good idea to just order all the parts, put the vehicle on jackstands for as long as it takes, and replace the following:
Sway Bar Bushing Rear LR015336
Control Arm Rear Lower Right Hand LR051592
Control Arm Rear Upper Right LR051622
Control Arm Rear Lower Left Hand LR05159
Control Arm Rear Upper Left LR051623

So here are my questions:
  • I've done some wrenching on the LR3 (e.g., replaced front air bags, rebuilt compressor, front wheel bearings, etc.). I'm a novice mechanic, but there are videos and write-ups, and I can follow directions. Am I crazy for considering this? Money is a factor, and with exchange rates, I can get the genuine LR parts from LRDirect for approx $700 after shipping. I imagine it would be at least a couple grand to have this done at Indy mechanic. Not to mention the benefit of getting to know how to replace if ever one of these parts go wrong on the trail (which is probably an equal reason for trying to do the work myself).
  • Am I missing any parts I should consider replacing while I have the rear end exposed for the above?

Thanks for advice/suggestions.
 

A.J.M

Explorer
Biggest issue is getting the upper arm bolts out, if they have rusted in place then it makes the job a lot harder.

When I did the back on mine. I changed the full lot.
RRS rear upper arms have a different bush design and supposed to last longer.
Normal LR3 rear lower arms.
I did the upper and lower hub bushes as well. Both sides.
New rear arb bushes and new drop links.

You'll need a tool to get the hub bushes out. Also get new bolts, nuts and fixings for the arms.

Good luck, it made a nice difference to mine.
 

Eniam17

Adventurer
X2 on the bolt of its rusted. I did front wheel bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar Bushings, and put in rr sport control arms all over the last 5-10k miles, at 70k now and it's amazing how it makes the truck ride and handle like it's brand new again. I think it's a great plan for you
 

DVD

Adventurer
Thanks for the advice. Added new items to the parts list (below the line). I hope LRDirect can get the parts across the pond quickly. Planning to get most of the parts from them. I tried them for some rear hatch parts a couple months ago, and shipping was pretty quick.

Re the tool for removing the hub bushes, it seems that you can pick up a heavy duty crimping tool that will work as a press and doesn't cost too much, correct?
My other concern for parts is the "new bolts, nuts and fixings for the arms" that A.J.M. mentions. I'll bet I have to make a few trips to the hardware store of local dealer in the middle of the job.

Parts:
  • Sway Bar Bushing Rear LR015336 (get new bolts for the saddle - FT110206)
  • Control Arm Rear Lower Right Hand LR051592
  • Control Arm Rear Upper Right LR051622 or RRS LR023711
  • Control Arm Rear Lower Left Hand LR051594
  • Control Arm Rear Upper Left LR051623 or RRS LR023712
  • *****New items below*******
  • Control Arm Hardware Kit - Does One Side-Lower Arm - need 2 (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/CAHK)
  • Hub bushings kit (aka knuckle joint - probably need 2)
  • http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/BKRK1 - inclu:
  • RBK500220 Bushing Suspension Knuckle Lower Rear
  • RHF500100 Bushing Suspension Knuckle Upper Rear
  • Sway Bar Link Rear (aka droplink) RGD000311
  • Rear axle nut
 

Eniam17

Adventurer
The issue for me (and us in New England) is the salt rusting the control arm bolts so badly they have to get cut out. If you're in AZ and/or vehicle hasn't been rusted badly you might be able to get them out much easier.
 
Did you go with the RRS control arms?

Do you mind posting up an average cost plus shipping for the full lot? You can PM me if needed. I plan to do the same on my 08 LR3 here shortly so I am going to start ordering parts soon.

Mahaloz from Hawaii,

E
 

Ray_G

Explorer
Def following this and interested in your costs to the degree you want to share. I've been very pleased with LR Direct thus far.
At some point I'll be doing this too.
r
Ray
 

morrisdl

Adventurer
Good luck. I used RRS LCA on my LR3 last time and they only lasted 12k miles / 22 months! Im going w/Poly this time. Lucky8 has pre-assembled kit.
 

A.J.M

Explorer
RRS LCA are 2 years and 30k and counting on mine, tight as a drum.

Having done the RRS rear uppers, D3 rear lowers, new hub bushes, new arb bushes and new drop links.
Trust me, it will make a nice difference to the car.

I know mine did.
 

dsm02c

Adventurer
I'd seriously consider doing the orange polybush in the front LCA, just have the factory ones pressed out, no reason to risk hurting your brand new lca, I've got the polybush in mine and just did the same trip to DV and they did great, I've got almost 15k on them and a decent amount of hard use, no extra noises/ squeaks and ride feels good.

668c9e20b4e9ef1df9061171bf0bbf33.jpg


I found out about these bushings from AUS too late, but they look better engineered than the polybush...

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=45702&sq=7608
 

DVD

Adventurer
It’s an ongoing saga, but I’ll provide an update.
First of all, at this point, I’m not sure if I’m glad that I took the approach of taking my time and minimizing impact to the rest of my life, or if I would have been better off taking 3 or 4 days vacation and a weekend to devote entirely to the project. I've had a lot of other things going on since I started this project, and haven't had even a dedicated Saturday for the LR3. I do have a good situation with an extra vehicle for an extended period, so that was a big part of my “take my time” approach.

I had a big leap in scope and decided to do the front suspension as well. I had the front LCA bushings replaced 50k miles ago. Everything else is 150k and 12 yrs old. So when I was pricing the rear control arms, I found a complete kit (all 8 control arms and all the nuts/bolts/fixings) on the Advanced Factors (UK) site. The kit doesn’t have Land Rover branded parts, but it does seem to have a balance of upgraded parts where you want them while keeping overall price pretty low. I posted on the UK disco3 forum to see if others had used this kit and got good feedback.
Here’s my summary of the battle plan:
  • Replace all 8 control arms (front and rear).
  • Replace front and rear anti-roll bushes
  • Replace front and rear stabilizer links (aka droplinks)
  • Replace front and rear flexible brake lines
  • Replace rear panhard rods (toe link)
  • Replace rear hub bushes (hub knuckles on each side have upper and lower bushes where the control arms attach).
  • Replace rear air struts
  • Replace rear EAS valve block (these last 2 items are take-offs from a friend who converted to coils)

I bought the parts from Advanced Factors (UK site). Here’s a note for shipping: Import duties apparently are applied for orders exceeding $800. My initial excitement at getting my parts all the way from UK 3 DAYS after placing my order was somewhat dispelled by duty charge of $100 and change. I had a secondary, follow-up order of approx $200 and no duty charge.

I started on the rear, and am still working on it. I had to use my reciprocating saw on a couple bolts (both upper rear control arms). But I was expecting this, and had good blades, so it wasn’t a big time sink. I did have 2 big sinks for the rear:
Hub nut. I’ve removed both fronts for other jobs, and got the RHS rear without too much problem. But the LHS hub nut wouldn’t budge. I use my hi-lift handle as a cheater bar, and that didn’t do the trick, so I got a 5-ft galvanized steel pipe. After working it for a couple days (while doing other things in between, I finally got to the point where I determined to either break the bar or loosen the nut. The nut won.
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I got a ¾-drive breaker bar and that finally loosened the nut.
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I found a few forum posts about the same topic, where people said you need a 3/4 -drive breaker, so it was good to know that my problem wasn’t all that unusual.

Hub bushes. I read a few forum posts where people used hand-tool hub push/press set to remove these, and some that even used sockets and C-clamps. Mine were totally seized. Various size hammers, including a sledge, and a homemade press wouldn't budge the bush. I ended up going to a local mechanic, and the guy was able to get it out with a lot of effort and impact tools and professional bearing removal kit.

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My homemade press (6-in vise and sockets as sleeve on one end and pusher on the other).

I have a clear Saturday and 1/2-day Sunday, so I hope to finish the rear and move to the fronts this weekend.

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Lots of room with parts removed.
 

zelatore

Explorer
I've done pretty much all of those things at least once if not several times on my LR3. It's a pretty big job to swallow all at once. BTW, love the adjustable axle strap.
 

unseenone

Explorer
Looking good, I've done a similar job once, time to consider doing it again. Why not take a good look at the CV Joints and rear wheel bearings while you are at it. The truck is going to ride like new when you are done.
 

DVD

Adventurer
For future reference, it’s good to give a thread a proper closing. It is possible for a relative novice to pull off a job like this. Funny how an epic battle ends with a whimper. During the initial stages, I was using a huge breaker bar, reciprocating saw, and impact tools to take parts off the vehicle. During installation, it was nice to use a more civilized torque wrench as the primary tool. And at the very end, it’s a tiny 8 mm wrench for bleeding brakes and fingers to re-attach wheel arch clips.

Got the vehicle back from alignment, and it feels great. Every single control arm, all rear hub bushes, all arb bushes, all drop links, all steering/panhard rods, all replaced. Throw in new brake lines and fluid, diff fluids, xfer fluid, some EAS rear valve and rear air-strut swap-outs (from a friend who recently converted to coils), and it’s a lot of r&r.

I won't attempt to repeat the many how-to's available via a google search, but the one piece of advice I’d give is to be prepared for the things that go wrong. Everybody warns about the seized control arm bolts, so it’s not discouraging to find those and have to saw them off. And it's kind of fun when friends come over and say "I don't think I've ever seen anybody use a reciprocating saw to work on their car." Here are some unexpected things that set me back.

Hub nut that wouldn’t come loose, as described previously. I ended up buying a ¾-in breaker, and that did the job (in combination with a 5-ft cheater extension).
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Brake line flare that wouldn’t loosen/tighten. One of the flares on the metal line must have been tightened too much such that the flare wouldn’t release from the female-end flexi line. I finally muscled it out, but then when re-assembling, the mishapen flare wouldn’t insert to allow me to screw the lines together. I ended up filing the flare to fit, but the whole thing added time while I was considering whether to get a new metal line or if I could revive the existing. (No leaks from my re-formed line.)

Missing bump stops on one of the control arms. One of my brand new rear control bushings was missing the little white rubber bump stops. There is conflicting info about whether these are necessary or being phased out, but the supplier was good to send me the missing pieces. The incident did set me back in terms of schedule.

Front upper control arm. I couldn’t find much in terms of a how-to for the front UCA’s. These are a challenge due to the forward-most bolts, which are entirely hidden and hard to get at. But after doing all the other control arms, there wasn’t much different.

Front arb bushings. The left-side upper bolt for the arb bush collar is inaccessible. Well, I saw a forum post from one lucky person who had a ⅜ drive socket that fit next to the front diff arm. I tried 5 different ⅜-drive sockets. None fit. I read somebody who used a grinder to shave off the driver end of his socket to make it fit. Instead of this, I ended up following the other, surefire solution of removing a frame piece, removing the bolts that attach the front diff to the support arm (support the diff), and then wedging the arm aside by a few mm in order to get a socket on a single nut for the arb bush. Three nuts were removed in 5 min, and I was thinking that this would be a quick part of the job. Then that last stubborn one ends up taking a couple hours to remove one single stupid nut.
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Drive shaft hyperextended and came loose at front inner CVJ housing. I read warnings about being careful with the drive shaft to avoid pulling it out, so tried to keep them supported. I got the first 3 re-inserted into the hubs with no problems. I don’t know if I was overconfident that this was an overblown concern or just lucky on the first 3, but on the last one, as I was muscling the drive shaft in, I pulled it out too far:
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So I had to research front CVJ / driveshaft installation. Nothing was broken - bearings and boot were fine. But I did have to remove the boot and re-align the bearings to re-insert them into the housing. Some grease is lost, so I needed to clean the bearings and housing and inner boot, repack with grease, and re-install. Similar to the other “gotcha’s,” the time to actually do the work wasn’t that much, but it did take some time to figure out exactly what was wrong and how to address the challenge. But it was interesting to see how that CVJ is put together.
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That’s about it. Big job, but it feels and sounds much better - no more squeaks and groans going over speed bumps. I’m in it for the long haul with this vehicle! Took a weekend trip to southern Utah, Lake Powell area last weekend, and the vehicle ran great (except for wheel balance issues caused by impacted clay, but once cleaned out it was fine again).
QPAMVzkt2YescPJdRI4ESyDDq5NNWiFSfGIbeW3jinEB5mYRJKkqFy6gPvVEMa2t-Hwrm68TvqGNB5dDIKmf50cz29rz3y9G_sCS6TxHmcK1WvrswAgFLjiouL1SwJ_YwxkOBKkssyx3BK3aD398QrE7LhbN5GdzkMunnRoGhvyIH0bqS0_DHUQ4ilEhvPvmst9jVB76vmFU74y-pPLF0QAMV9MqjoZJX5uen-cnKv19F5XoIiIZ0ePwxOQjdXfLw3qOtMugE91SPPsTmTg2CswSoA1o42aMyS-9bHKZkHjkj2RRpCf3zBJoCoC8tCAoTzE4Mgh3ZtO6g_pJBdz6cSUTRMt7vRaAa5hhy108l3uUzP_n4j_JP26NY_9jyDzRGTaCFM5lMddm4qK2gyvzQNxEHx_3fZIqn2cbKQ4KtF1O-9asxN3cU0F-TXScBBchFKcMFufolh41FHwCuM2V_tR9H79GuakSapzOL_G4nCksEQWkJSWJSmSNMXpJjIx02L0wMVSX0SswQCQeGX3eEMmyF4szGSATROco4exApA931hMDu17vDRQkjC-zN6_N5Br5W6MEgkRG5Y9-w-PvVjaWarAyj5BKO9CY-ZpeRLnY6NopeVpW2N65H-NeJSQD1To5XfG3TKVSMnPG85Ar4GlhBImVD2DK0VLp0WGgWQg=w840-h630-no


Now what to do with this?
mIKuWH4uhDOd7gxPt95Usdj32Ol5A4_2LpdyULyHFK9ytT-Dbw_p9x-cw3Zk9da_-7l_YX9kSj_onjwVN5fID7_Qx1xoqhIHl-LpUeAR8RWKkvtxxAT_cJF_yWSxkabZvvMPuxw_yWySjfzRyS6cosZAdlWcSe_s-yQw_R8rvtjsC6OYvlUAsl1X6ZiPTuBpfC2CQdsBmNKEHnzSBZ-zWftLY077g7Yk2KxWYy98Rl_jrS6mrhS_J40SWE3NJxjx9EWbY89asWL9VLpgylJ8IY56bEAuhgFsj1VRpV40Dxgz8-MLF7SqgFMskuoajsl_ik7D0B1ZYfpKo2wWo8L5uPA_0h68m1VV9LfXljgTygbTTTaAFN9y-Ryie-bYQCK_BTjb8YKPlD3TgZwlD1MwOMgY6-fPuDhYSre954rLIGWe_ekHp_ScvrCiR4QmmsAbgihp78GND65PuxSKnEXawcfY2d2HpJpl5DwVmtIZlxTEu1n6lqlzcFkTHnI1CQDhzFsjR85O7Gy25bmqKu9F6_yr37UNIH_sP864nLQsZL3_hO1DtC6RWRUQDQ07nWeTPuzez2u1Zbezr2-2WzdHrVJ61heSv2yk4dJnmsa1kZnXqlWleJMou326CQNbedk6HiaQCVyxCdM9JruMWS6x0PWy6cVik6LJpKJRlZf-LTQ=w840-h630-no
 

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