The Wanderers build

[superbuickguy]

So I might (actually, probably) will use this for my trip to Optima. It has water, an awning and a fridge.... oh and a place to sleep.
But I need to fix a problem. If I stay in the throttle too long, I get a check engine light and a reduction in power. I think it's because the new turbo just puts out too much air. Before I wind it back, I can change the fueling. Here's how

first, we need the PMD - the large heat sink is because GM really messed up with the PMD and mounted it to the injection pump, right there in the middle of the motor.... electronics do not like heat. So companies came to the rescue to relocated the PMD and add a cooler, the PO did those things.

Then the controller

So, the PMD has a chip in it that tells the computer what 'table' (to use current language) for the motor. There are 9 choices, 9 is the highest flow.... this is a 9

I took a chance, thinking the chip could be wrong for the larger turbo.... it was... a 6

New is on the left

One more step, next cut the front window out, reseal it, then start cleaning it up for its trip.... I tested the brake controller and trailer lights and they're good to go...

the only downsides for the Suburban. No satellite radio, I get about 13 mpg towing with it vs. 18 in the Colorado... honestly though, it's more comfortable

 

[superbuickguy]

I absolutely hate automatic battery chargers. They never work, and sometimes they even destroy alternators because they put too much load on the alternator...
I've had this T-max floating around for awhile... time to install it

basically uses a solenoid

beside allowing charging, you can use your house batteries to start your vehicle....

 

[superbuickguy]

outside of almost burning my mobile mansion to the ground - it just works.

but with that said, I need to tow my race car to Spokane and the Overland vehicle would be perfect for the task except.

I have a CEL that cuts power when it comes on. Apparently it's because if the manifold pressure is more then 10# of boost, it thinks there's a problem.... and the fix is elegant. This from a post from 2004
Just to clarify and so I can understand what's going on. On the MAT on top of the manifold. The center green wire is the signal wire to the ECM. You put a resistor between the green ECM signal wire and the black ground wire. This basically shunts some of the voltage to ground lowering the signal voltage that gets sent to the ECM. This

and

Use a 10k - 15 turns linear pot from Radio Shack - < $4.00. Splice into the boost sensor on the manifold - green is to the ECM, and tap the other prong into the ground wire -black-. I set mine to 2K for the spliced wire, and -just back from a 3000 mi road trip- saw 13# boost on rare steep mountain passes, -shut off cruise at that point- and no codes. The overall theory was in the '99 or 2000 -I believe- archives - a short mention of how-to. Another site gave me a little more info. I can get the RS parts number later, if needed.


and then I see that a friend from my 90s 6.2 diesel days is still around.... https://www.heathdiesel.com/65-turbo-diesel-performance-parts.html


evil grin.

 

[superbuickguy]

completion of that last post
since I turned the boost up to 11 (psi), I need a knob that is worth of it

green is the signal wire, grey is power, black is ground

green splice

if you're doing this - be sure what side is being regulated... in this case, the rheostat came from a LED dimmer - so the ground is what is regulated...

thus the positive goes to ground, white ground goes to the source, black goes back to the computer (the green wire)
now it goes to 11 - I'm sure whoever ends up with this next is going to wonder what the hell.... good

 

[superbuickguy]

Sooo, I suppose I should underscore why I love Suburbans. This diesel, non-running Suburban cost me $300 to purchase, AAA was free, the motor was $1100 (there was nothing wrong with the original motor except a dealership who lied to the guy I bought it from). Most of the additions I had from prior builds (awning, etc). Tires were $800, there is no lift but a sawzall was used. The snorkel cost $20 and is from a Toyota Land Cruiser (thanks Amazon). I did upgrade the turbo and that was $600 all in (it's a take-off from a 5.7 Cummins diesel 'early' motor) - and there's even a kit to make it an easy-to-bolt-in affair. The trans is a 4L80e and I've done nothing but abuse it - according to the prior owner it was replaced at 30k, the truck as 250k on it now.

And for the money I have a 3/4 ton truck that can tow anything, gets amazing fuel economy, and is unique in the overland world. Why did I say this today, my wife wands a 110..... what I imagine will happen is I'll get her one and eventually it will sit because the Suburban is so handy for her and her dog stuff (as it is, she drives it more then I do).

If you're in the market for a unique, overland vehicle - consider the 'burbs. The hatred of the 6.2/6.5 is baseless, and you can turbo the 6.2 with parts from a 6.5. Nice thing about the hate is the diesel Suburbans are cheap.... very, very cheap.... especially non-runners. Those are usually this fact pattern: Someone screwed with the fuel system, got air in the line, destroyed a couple starters, a set of batteries, then let it sit for 6 months to a year before finally giving up and selling it. One particularly hateful seller - who couldn't believe anyone (apparently, including me) would be stupid enough to buy one - got to see me start his former Suburban in 20 minutes and drive it away. I still love the beat-puppy-look on his face as I drove away. They're really easy to start if you get air in the lines but you need to know the magic incantation and tricks.... usually I'm nicer and have it towed away - then start it on the tow truck's flat bed when I get it home.... but that guy, yeah....

With that said, if you want more then 400 hp and/or more then 600 lb torque.... find something else. These can do it but you will have problems keeping it together - especially keeping head gaskets in place. I haven't upgraded the studs and run no more then 11 psi boost. That's good for seat-dyno estimate of 260-300 hp and 450 torque.... pulling a car trailer or FJ40 (see pictures) I get 13 mpg (with a 5000 foot climb) and average around 15 mpg in mostly city driving. On the road my absolute best was 22 mpg, and usually is 18....

 

[superbuickguy]

okay, so news.... about that 400 hp and 600 lb torque. Meet the new hotness
but first.... so we moved across the state. It's why I missed NWOR (dang it), but I have an amazing shop and I see this orb arise from the eastern sky every morning and set back down in the western sky (it's sooooo weird)
Suburban isn't going anywhere - it's my wife's back-up Search and Rescue rig

though right now it has an injector problem that I'll detail its fix at a later date. so back to the other news
well, hot probably isn't the word

1986 K5 Blazer, 6.2 diesel with a nice window in the block to check that the crank is, indeed, broken...
plans are fairly simple, lift it with springs in the back and change the front suspension to coil springs (simple)
change the axles to a dana 60 front/corporate 14 bolt rear.... limited slip front, detroit locker rear

and this

4.56 gears that are new along with new braking stuff... retaining the e-brake in the rear

replacing the motor with a 6.5 turbo diesel from a 99 H1 Hummer (civilian).... not an optimizer motor but a 34,000 mile motor that came out of a duramax swapped H1

I have skads of parts for these motors - thus moving the turbo to the side, increasing the turbo size/capacity and such is well within my wheelhouse. This is overview, I'll detail what I'm doing as I do it
also changing the injection pump - it's 24v now - which I thought, seriously, about making the entire truck 24v, but decided not to (though might run a parallel system later for reasons discussed then)... in 92/93 there was no PMD. Thus, the new pump (not cheap) is a 92
replacing the trans with a NV4500 and (yet to find) NP 205

Once all of that is done, new interior, paint. Also going to build a camper for it. Hopefully, it's done enough to make it to the NWOR in mid June.... we will see....

 

[superbuickguy]

and further plans are to send my class A motorhome to a new home then use this to pull my race car .... the other reason for the beefy axles
aforementioned race car

 

[Todd n Natalie]

Glad to see some updates here! The race car looks like a bunch of fun! More details!

 

[bknudtsen]

Awesome! I would love to move across the state.

 

[superbuickguy]

axle bracket time... first, conceptualize

explanation

I could have welded the brackets to the tube - not the cast steel of the housing - however, that'd put the arms outside the frame and more in harm's way. Also, with this I can simply use GM shocks that are the right length... and no, I'm not afraid of welding to cast steel - I did on my FJ40 and 8 years later, it's still holding just fine.
then cad

mark

then cut

then fit

so Amazon ... they 'recalled' the first steering box and now it looks like they're going to do it again.... it hasn't been sent .... fme.The problem is I need a box to continue mounting brackets...

 

[superbuickguy]

Glad to see some updates here! The race car looks like a bunch of fun! More details!

started as a 1976 Corvette and an off-hand comment by Randy Probst - that the 2010 Camaro SS handled better then the similar vintage Corvette.... so under the car is a C5/C6 front suspension and a 5th Gen Camaro SS rear clip. 14" brembos all around, 427 BBC (solid cam, port injection, crank ignition, 700 hp), 5 speed TKX trans. Under is Continental Extreme Sport tires, Apex wheels (sponsor). Flares are by Custom Imagine Corvettes... I've had it up to 160 mph at Willow Springs. I mostly Autox it and solely for fun... I ran Optima mostly because someone said I wouldn't be competitive... wonder where he went... I have some crow to feed him. Next year's plan is NASA, Silver State Challenge and Optima x2.... all pulled by this Blazer I'm building...

 

[Todd n Natalie]

started as a 1976 Corvette and an off-hand comment by Randy Probst - that the 2010 Camaro SS handled better then the similar vintage Corvette.... so under the car is a C5/C6 front suspension and a 5th Gen Camaro SS rear clip. 14" brembos all around, 427 BBC (solid cam, port injection, crank ignition, 700 hp), 5 speed TKX trans. Under is Continental Extreme Sport tires, Apex wheels (sponsor). Flares are by Custom Imagine Corvettes... I've had it up to 160 mph at Willow Springs. I mostly Autox it and solely for fun... I ran Optima mostly because someone said I wouldn't be competitive... wonder where he went... I have some crow to feed him. Next year's plan is NASA, Silver State Challenge and Optima x2.... all pulled by this Blazer I'm building...

That must've been a fun build! Can't wait to see the Blazer progress. Always liked the K5's.

 

[superbuickguy]

That must've been a fun build! Can't wait to see the Blazer progress. Always liked the K5's.

me too, just didn't like the ride of a lifted on leaf spring truck...

 

[Todd n Natalie]

me too, just didn't like the ride of a lifted on leaf spring truck...

Well if you want to improve the ride.....

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2022/11/roadster-shop-launches-legend-series-chassis-for-k5-chevy-blazer-and-c-k-trucks/

1973-80 K10 Legend Series Chassis

Standard Chassis Features: Roadster Shop 2x6 "Laser Rail" frame design with integral crossmembers GM Factory IFS with GM front differential and axle shafts Fox 2.5 Factory Series adjustable front coilovers Power rack & pinion steering Tubular front sway bar GM Silverado 13" front disc...

roadstershop.com

Only 30 grand.... lol

 

[superbuickguy]

Well if you want to improve the ride.....

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2022/11/roadster-shop-launches-legend-series-chassis-for-k5-chevy-blazer-and-c-k-trucks/

1973-80 K10 Legend Series Chassis

Standard Chassis Features: Roadster Shop 2x6 "Laser Rail" frame design with integral crossmembers GM Factory IFS with GM front differential and axle shafts Fox 2.5 Factory Series adjustable front coilovers Power rack & pinion steering Tubular front sway bar GM Silverado 13" front disc...

roadstershop.com

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Only 30 grand.... lol

if it was only 30k with the blown LT motor... sign me up... but it's not. It's also not nearly as strong as what I'm building...

and IFS? for shame, SHAME, SHHHHAAAAMMMMEEEEEEE

and as a side note, I know several people at the Roadster shop and consider them friends - they do amazing work and build really good products. But my final point, why would I pay someone else to do what I can do? even worse, that would make this the world's shortest build thread.... "Bought truck, wrote large check, tada!!!!"