4Runner cargo drawer and pull out kitchen build

JCDriller

Adventurer
Just thought I would share my progress on my design. First off let me state that this design is a modified version of Maddiesel67's that can be seen here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/228661-cargo-drawers-w-pull-out-kitchen-build-thread.html

I'll be using rivnuts placed in the floor of my 4Runner to make a flat floor out of ply or aluminum, still undecided. The current design is on it's 5th or 6th version but I'm almost happy with it and ready to start building. I have collected all the small parts in the design except the slides since my design keeps changing. I will be using Accuride 500lb lock in/out slides for all but the utensil drawer which will get some Accuride lock out slides I have from an old project that are rated to around 200 lbs IIRC.

The main casing will be 12.75" tall, 36" deep and 44" wide and made of 3/4 BB. The remaining components will be made from 1/2 or 1/4" BB and I'll be using as many lightening cuts as I can to reduce weight. I'm using a Clear View Easy Slide 150 drop slide that I had shipped from Australia along with a 47qt ARB fridge. The drawer and kitchen will be the same size, I may remove the kitchen and install a drawer part of the time.

The kitchen utilizes a small stainless sink and will have a folding surflo faucet and 12v pump. In my JKU I had a large fixed water tank, I've decided for this build to use 2 separate smaller scepter 5g jerry cans. The stove is a Partner 2 burner 22" and there is 2 propane bottle housed next to the sink under a lift off cover. There will also be a sink sprayer that is housed under that lift off cover next to the sink.

Here is a .gif of my design
ezgif.com-optimize-2_zpsghr63iw6.gif


Another is a more recent image where I thought to use a small piece of ply across the top of the drawer to make the kitchen "L" shaped.
extra%20surface_zpsfdhki1kv.jpg
 
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94Discovery

Adventurer
is the fridge larger than the drawer?
if not why not put the fridge lower and the one of the drawer on top easier to reach and lower center of gravity always helps in of camber situations.
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
is the fridge larger than the drawer?
if not why not put the fridge lower and the one of the drawer on top easier to reach and lower center of gravity always helps in of camber situations.

Thanks for the input. That would work, but the fridge is using a drop slide and the drawer can't so I'm afraid I would have a hard time seeing the drawers contents.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Is the sink location constrained by the stove?

I would be concerned about splashes being in a place where they will end up inside the main case or the drawer glides.

I also think you could effectively use thinner Plywood. I've been building a chuck box out of 3/8" and I've been really impressed by its strength and stiffness, and it weighs less per ft^2 than 1/8" aluminum sheet.

It looks like fun though. Good luck!
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
Is the sink location constrained by the stove?

I would be concerned about splashes being in a place where they will end up inside the main case or the drawer glides.

I also think you could effectively use thinner Plywood. I've been building a chuck box out of 3/8" and I've been really impressed by its strength and stiffness, and it weighs less per ft^2 than 1/8" aluminum sheet.

It looks like fun though. Good luck!

You are correct. I can't pull the sink forward because it would run into the drawer. As for the 3/8 ply I'm hesitant to go thinner than 1/2" because I'll be using pocket screws and glue. I want to ensure I've got enough wood to bite into and with the long lever arm, I don't want anything separating. In places where I can just run a long deck screw perpendicular to the outside piece of wood I'm using 1/4" where appropriate, like the underside of each kitchen section. I'll likely stay with the thicknesses I have and try to remove weight with lightening cuts and mouse holes.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Yep, I understand the screw issue. Looking back on my post, I noted it was supposed to say 3/8" Baltic Birch ply. I've actually been finger/box jointing all of the corners with 1/2" x 3/8" fingers. It took an insane amount of patience and attention to detail to build a tablesaw jig, but now life is awesome. I'm thinking that there is enough glue surface there to keep it together for a very long time.
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
Impressive! I'd be concerned with the drawers not locking into place. Also, what software did you use for this?

It's called sketchup and it's free for personal use. Very easy to learn.

All the drawers do lock open and closed via the Accuride 9308 slides. I'll be using a locking slide on both sides of the drawer to eliminate side to side play. The utensil drawer is the only one that doesn't lock in, it only locks out via Accuride 3307s, it'll have one of the pop out locking drawer pulls that are common in RVs, trailers and boats like the one pictured be

m1-2a.jpg


Also, sorry I never got back to you about the stove, I'm still debating on which side I want the kitchen on. Until I decide I'm holding off on ordering the stove so I can get the propane input on the correct side and avoid your problem.

I'm actually thinking about fridge on the passengers side and kitchen on the drivers side. I can hook up to a 6lb worthington propane tank mounted to a driver side swing out on a SSO rear bumper. However, that puts the fridge on the passengers side which is less ideal for 3 reasons. Rear vision is restricted, it blocks the built in storage on the passengers side and finally my son's car seat is on the drivers side so if I want to fold the rear seat to open up the remaining storage area I've got to move his car seat.
 
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JCDriller

Adventurer
Yep, I understand the screw issue. Looking back on my post, I noted it was supposed to say 3/8" Baltic Birch ply. I've actually been finger/box jointing all of the corners with 1/2" x 3/8" fingers. It took an insane amount of patience and attention to detail to build a tablesaw jig, but now life is awesome. I'm thinking that there is enough glue surface there to keep it together for a very long time.

I really need to learn finger joints...
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
Yesterday was beautiful so I decided to go ahead and start building the outer casing out of 1/2" baltic birch. I'm not ready to move forward with the build yet, I'm going to keep the casing in the back for a few weeks to make sure I don't miss the space. As of right now its minimally screwed together with no glue incase I want to make adjustments. Anyway thought I would share my progress.





Not sure Addie likes it, a little tall for her. Im still trying to decide if I want to make it narrower by about 3" overall so it'll sit down on the inside of the trim, for now I have to have a lower 3/4" ply piece to raise it above the lip on the trim.
I just sold my Smitty ARCTIC fridge (very tall), I need to buy a ARB 47L. If it'll fit the way it is, I won't try and lower it, but I think it'll be close. Anyone in Kansas City have an ARB fridge I can slip into the drop slide for a few minutes?

Casing is 36.5x44x12.25" without including the 3/4" spacers.
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
I like how you're approaching this and putting in a mockup (so to speak) that can be adjusted if need be.
 

jjxsanchez

New member
sick setup indeed, Are you still getting the SSO rear bumper? I would say hold off on that. I ordered mine june 2016 and till this day is not finished. Its heavily flawed.

-Juan
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
sick setup indeed, Are you still getting the SSO rear bumper? I would say hold off on that. I ordered mine june 2016 and till this day is not finished. Its heavily flawed.

-Juan

Damn, sorry to hear about bumper!

I actually ended up going another route. My wife decided I just need to build or buy a teardrop and I think she is right. So with that in mind I just made a simple drawer system, you can see it in this thread. I hope to finish it in the next month or so when I get time.

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/170344-5th-Gen-4Runner-drawer-build-thread
 

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