Se7en62's '97 Cherokee XJ "GROOT" Overland Build

Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
Before I had even bought the Jeep, I had started to contemplate a roof top tent for my truck. I hadn't even been looking, but found one randomly on Craigslist and jumped on it.

Here's my new-to-me CVT Mt. Shasta Pioneer RTT. I bought it from a guy in San Antonio for $850 and it came with the Annex and floor as well. He said he had only used it about 5 times over the last 3 years and I think it shows. I've heard wonders about it, so I'm planning to seal the rain-fly with Aqua-Tite and take it out ASAP with my wife.

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Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
Yeah rust is my nemesis, but nothing my angle grinder and some chemical treatment can't fix.

The rockers panels, I've decided I'm going to cut out almost entirely and replace with 2x6 tube steel.

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Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
I got lucky and found a local seller with set of brand new Rubicon take-offs. He was only asking for $300, so I sold my existing wheels and tires for $250. I picked up the take-offs and flipped them a week later for $900. Then, found these the same day for $800 for a set of 5.

All in, I spent an extra $50 on top of the Jeep to score this set.

These are 285/65R16 Firestone Destination M/T's on 16" Rubicon take-offs with only 5k on them. I've been curious about these tires for a while, so I figured we'd give them a try. The seller also threw in a set of spacers and lugs so it ended up being a pretty sweet deal.

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Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
According to research on ExPo and the Cherokee Forums the first verdict on electrics is to ditch the little Group 54 in favor of a larger capacity Group 34 battery. I read a lot of reviews, compared pricing, and then referenced my plans: winch and lights for now. I wanted a reliable main battery, but didn't want to spend more than $200. What I decided on was the Interstate Mega-Tron II. - It cost me $138 at Firestone and provides 700 CCA and 875 CA; Plenty for a winch and lights.

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Since it's quite a bit bigger than the outgoing battery, it will need an upgraded battery tray and tie down, which I'll get from JCR.

I do still plan on an Odyssey as a secondary power source once I get a fridge in, but that's 2-3 months down the road.
 
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Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
I like the National Luna kit too and also agree that it's a bit expensive. I'm still searching to see if there's another "intelligent solenoid" system available in the RV world. I'd rather not worry about the system needing to be messed with while we're in transit.

The system you suggested, plus a battery cable kit, and a pair of waterproof inline 100Amp fuses would end up being about $280. That's a good $200 less than the standard National Luna system, so it may be worth the savings. I just don't know all the value benefits of the "intelligent solenoid."
 

JSwanson

Observer
forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 i followed this write up on my XJ. I have both batterys in my engine compartment used a stinger solenoid from Amazon like $20
 

Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
Did you use 80 Amp fuses as he recommends? I'm considering these waterproof circuit breakers to use instead of fuses. Any thoughts on the pros/cons of breakers vs. fuses?

Bussmann CB185-80 High-Amp Breaker - $24/ea.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTBVLW?psc=1

Are y'all running winches, fridges, etc? How'd you wire those up to this home-made system?
 

JSwanson

Observer
I used fuses, i dont see why you couldnt use a circuit breaker. I am running a fridge and usb outlets off of it. I ran a 4 gauge wire to a fuse box under the rear seat and then fused my outlets off of that box.
 

AdventureHare

Outfitting for Adv
I'm paid to create software for circuit breaker control systems for aircraft...
1. You can reset a breaker vs. carrying extra fuses.
2. fast and slow trip fuses vs. fixed trip rate breakers and may be too fast depending on the equipment connected (high in-rush current).
3. Fuses are cheap vs. breakers, and thermal-mechanical CBs are more variable related to temperatures.
4. breakers can fail without you knowing and fail to protect (the CB fuses closed). Low probability but possible.
5. both will trip at at something above the amp rating, with fuses having greater deviation. Some times fuses will trip at less depending on how cheap they are. CB will rarely.

Overcurrent protection, independent of the method, is to protect against the wiring catching fire, which in turn might create a car-b-que. This is more of an issue where a small gauge wire is preferred for weight reasons. For copper wire, you should use at least a 4 gauge with an 80A CB. If you use something like a 10 gauge with 80A CB, the wire will melt before the CB trips. I have a 100A for my stereo and a 1/0 wire. You should properly protect the wiring.

If you're using an 8 gauge wire to power something, put a slow-burn fuse inline of ~30A. This way, a short circuit (quick with high amps) should trigger the CB.
 

PCO6

Adventurer
... The rockers panels, I've decided I'm going to cut out almost entirely and replace with 2x6 tube steel.

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I did that on my XJ. Apart from the obvious benefits (strength, stiffening, etc.) it's a LOT easier to do than putting in original replacement rockers.
 

Se7en62

Adventure Seeker
I may have lost momentum, but I haven't lost the drive. Thanks to my recent work schedule, the only thing I can add right now is that I ordered Dirt Bound's battery tray to accommodate the larger Group 34 battery. I'm also have a free afternoon today, so I can get under there and hopefully finish the oil pan and rear main seal.

While removing the steering stabilizer, I discovered a neat trick: The damper bolt on the center link is the same thread and pitch as my lug nuts. How do I know? Well, because I used an old lug nut to protect the threads while I hammered the bolt loose.

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This soft aluminum lug nut compacted after just a few whacks of the hammer, but backed off without issue leaving the threads perfect.

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