'round n' back again
Explorer
Just a reminder to you mitsu drivers.
our rigs are old and we spend a lot of time on suspension upgrades -out of necessity, or fun.
An important ingredient to ride quality is tight wheel bearings. Today, I replaced my drivers hub and rotor. Passenger side is original equipment. will get to it next week on that unemployment check.
anyway, on test drive was reminded how bearings, when they deteriorate, will cause rattles and clatter over rough surfaces.
So replace yours if you don't know how old the existing bearings are.
especially if you like to swim with your buggy. even a few miles with water in the bearings will cause thousand mile wear.
and if you want like-new ride quality...
bearings are cheap. use timken.
time ; about 1.5 hr each side, faster if you have a spare hub assembly ready to go on.
seal goes with white nylon surface and dust protector facing inward- i know, thats counterintuitive...
check spindle for cracks knurling, pitting or bearing galling against the shoulder of the spindle.
clean well the seating surfaces. lift the hub gently onto the spindle to avoid tearing or crushing the seal.
use only as much grease as needed on the bearing. any more and you attract : heat, dirt, and blobs you have to clean out of the hub later.
set the unit firmly. back off the nut to where the hub turns with only the resistance of the new, cold grease; that feel should be roughly equilivent to turning the fully greased bearing in your hand when you have greased it. same resistance
clean rotor and pads,
replace caliper
leave your hub/ cover off. drive the heck out of it for a dozen miles. come home,
lift rig off the ground check for play in bearing, tighten as needed , your wheel will feel different now that you have the tire on, worked grease in, and there is some caliper pad rub, but wheel should spin freely.
replace locking hub/cover
recheck next time you have the rig in the air. 12/6 pm give it a shake.
sorry to bore you readers that do this a lot, but many of us are not very versed in this procedure.
our rigs are old and we spend a lot of time on suspension upgrades -out of necessity, or fun.
An important ingredient to ride quality is tight wheel bearings. Today, I replaced my drivers hub and rotor. Passenger side is original equipment. will get to it next week on that unemployment check.
anyway, on test drive was reminded how bearings, when they deteriorate, will cause rattles and clatter over rough surfaces.
So replace yours if you don't know how old the existing bearings are.
especially if you like to swim with your buggy. even a few miles with water in the bearings will cause thousand mile wear.
and if you want like-new ride quality...
bearings are cheap. use timken.
time ; about 1.5 hr each side, faster if you have a spare hub assembly ready to go on.
seal goes with white nylon surface and dust protector facing inward- i know, thats counterintuitive...
check spindle for cracks knurling, pitting or bearing galling against the shoulder of the spindle.
clean well the seating surfaces. lift the hub gently onto the spindle to avoid tearing or crushing the seal.
use only as much grease as needed on the bearing. any more and you attract : heat, dirt, and blobs you have to clean out of the hub later.
set the unit firmly. back off the nut to where the hub turns with only the resistance of the new, cold grease; that feel should be roughly equilivent to turning the fully greased bearing in your hand when you have greased it. same resistance
clean rotor and pads,
replace caliper
leave your hub/ cover off. drive the heck out of it for a dozen miles. come home,
lift rig off the ground check for play in bearing, tighten as needed , your wheel will feel different now that you have the tire on, worked grease in, and there is some caliper pad rub, but wheel should spin freely.
replace locking hub/cover
recheck next time you have the rig in the air. 12/6 pm give it a shake.
sorry to bore you readers that do this a lot, but many of us are not very versed in this procedure.