LR4 Chain Guides

Tubthumper

New member
After doing the Land Rover driving experience twice have been bitten by the Rover bug. Looking at used LR4's.

I feel like I am seeing more talk about the 5.0 plastic chain guides on the 10-12 models in the last few months. Is this an actual issue that will eventually affect all LR4's pre 2013?

Very hard to find an LR4 with all the options we want (White and V8 are musts...) wondering if we should only look at 2013's.

Sounds like the repair is permanent--does any one have a cost of that repair?

Thanks!
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
I have done the repair twice. The parts are substantial and I really don't see any further issues after the repair. I did it once at a independent shop then when I briefly worked at the dealer. Cost at each was comparable as the labor rate was about the same and both used the factory parts upgrade. Only issue I saw was the injectors are very difficult to remove and if not done properly can crack the plastic casing on the upper portion. Can go unnoticed and potentially be a future issue but still a rare occurrence. I would own a early LR4 but price it accordingly based on weather the update was completed or not. Good way to find out the price is to call your local dealer (which may be the better option for this repair fwiw).
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
I don't recommend not taking the valve covers off. I have tried the factory recommended zip tie method and the zip tie broke thus allowing the timing to adjust when the cams rotated. Was a huge pita to get it back in time. No one at the dealer I worked at did that method.
 

iowalr4

Adventurer
from what I have read (not verified) they fixed this issue in late 2012 models and 2013 have the metal parts rather than plastic.
 

rjl

Ryan
This also may be a byproduct of the insane factory 15,000 mile oil-change intervals.

Additionally, the problem seems to have reared its head more on supercharged engines.
 

mpinco

Expedition Leader
Not just JLR ..... ?

2011 Timing chain shot at 44k miles?

"Hi i am seeing a lot of problem with timing chains , on newer 2010 and newer, plus we are seeing them on Mercedes Benz,BMW,Ford , and we are suspecting that with extended oil changes it is contributing to early failure of timing chains, another taught is that the oil do not have the proper additives to protect the timing chain and guides from wearing out, i have sent a couple of oil samples to get tested , so hopefully we will have some answers"

Beginning to get the feeling that this is not a tensioner issue itself. Could it be related to the move to high fuel mileage lubrication or extended intervals? Tensioner issues are a symptom, not a root cause. If so that opens the door to all current generation engines, not just prior to 2013.

And .....

Jaguar V8 engine questions/concerns

".....Every single picture I've seen of an engine undergoing a full timing chain change has had one thing in common - all the internal components are caked in brown deposits from heavily contaminated oil. It's no surprise under those circumstances that chains wear and PTFE components become brittle and fail......"

Prevention - Reduced oil change intervals and SeaFoam for all?
 

iowalr4

Adventurer
I don't want to derail the thread, but now I am curious what oil people are using on these. I want to start doing more frequent changes and I was planning on just going with mobil 1 full synth. Up until my warranty recently ran out I was letting the dealer do oil changes, but I typically do my own oil on all my other vehicles. My 2013 just hit 52k miles or so.
 

rjl

Ryan
I don't want to derail the thread, but now I am curious what oil people are using on these. I want to start doing more frequent changes and I was planning on just going with mobil 1 full synth. Up until my warranty recently ran out I was letting the dealer do oil changes, but I typically do my own oil on all my other vehicles. My 2013 just hit 52k miles or so.

Land Rover recommends the Castrol EDGE "Professional" motor oil as it meets their odd specification. That motor oil is hard to come by, however, and is around $10 or more a quart if you can find it--the only two options I am aware of is through a JLR dealer or on eBay.

The good news is that Mobil 1 explicitly states that it meets that same odd specification. I order that and a Mahle oil filter off Amazon. That notwithstanding, my local LR parts guy told me that any synthetic oil would do. I'm still on a CPO warranty, however, so I use Mobil 1 as I don't want to give LR any reason to deny a claim.

Using a MightyVac makes an oil change in an LR4 almost criminally easy. If you haven't seen it, Umberto's youtube video shows why:

 
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DiscoDavis

Explorer
Land Rover recommends the Castrol EDGE "Professional" motor oil as it meets their odd specification. That motor oil is hard to come by, however, and is around $10 or more a quart if you can find it--the only two options I am aware of is through a JLR dealer or on eBay.

The good news is that Mobil 1 explicitly states that it meets that same odd specification. I order that and a Mahle oil filter off Amazon. That notwithstanding, my local LR parts guy told me that any synthetic oil would do. I'm still on a CPO warranty, however, so I use Mobil 1 as I don't want to give LR any reason to deny a claim.

For those out of warranty. Castrol Edge 5w-30 is fine. ~25 dollars per 5 quart can at any walmart. I completely forgot JLR specs that random expensive stuff for the later Discovery 4's
 

iowalr4

Adventurer
Yep, I have a mityvac. I will probably start doing more frequent intervals also. I never did stick with 15,000, but I might do something closer to 7k. I will probably stick with mobil 1, either the standard stuff or extended performance.
 

Colin Hughes

Explorer
I run European oil in my LR3, typically Motul or Liquid-Moli, change at 10-12,000 kms. I have 330,000 kms on the engine now.
 

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