What to look for on a 1975 FJ40?

Kiriesh

Adventurer
Hey guys, I may be trading my '08 Wrangler unlimited for an FJ40 + cash soon which is a vehicle I've wanted for a good time now. The owner says its a 1975, I'm still waiting to hear back from him with some more information. I'm pretty familiar with general vehicle maintenance from working on my JKU, as well as TJ's and YJ's in the past, but anything specific to FJ's I should be looking for? The overall configuration/condition/price seems to range widely in my area, so we shall see if this goes anywhere.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
I am the second owner of a 76 FJ40, I love it.

75 was a transition year. I would look at the following in no particular order but just some things off the top of my head.

  • You should get the 2F engine, I'd like to see the number match the frame but not a deal killer.
  • Does it brake well and straight.
  • Does it steer straight at speed.
  • Look for frame cracks near the spring hangers in the front
  • Depending on where you live you will want to see emmissions equipment, smog pump, air rail on the head, and a mess of vacuum lines.
  • I would want to put it in low gear 1st and rev it up and let the engine brake the truck and make sure it stays in gear.
  • Obviously look for leaks and grease on the front knuckles.
  • I would want a matching top and doors.
  • Look to see if it is an OEM distributor and ignitor, I would wildly prefer an ignition system from a 60 series and eliminate the points system.
  • I would want to see an OEM Toyota carb and not a weber or other brand.
  • Power steering is a plus if it was added correctly, like a Saginaw or Mini-truck conversion.
  • The Rust demons are everywhere, look every where, but it comes with the teritory.
  • It should start right up.
  • Make sure there isn't a birds nest of wiring mess under the dash.
  • Some things that are really pricey to bring back to stock (so they are valuable if they are still on the truck) OEM: Steering wheel, jump seats, Dash knobs, late model doors, PTO winch/parts, barn doors, OEM floor mats etc.

That's just off the top of my head, take pics, post them up. If it smells like a lemon... walk. But don't expect a new vehicle without some work ahead of you, I daily drove mine for 15 years, it has quirks but it runs and drives straight. Rust is part of the game, look for bondo and shoddy work, if there is diamond plate rear protectors assume it is nothing but rust underneath.

I LOVE MY 40 and they are increasing in value each year.

For what it is worth I only see a few different categories for 40's
  • Total Rust Bucket beaters: $0-3,500
  • Average Used, modified, unrestored, with rust but running and driving: $3,500-8,000
  • Clean modified, rust repair, good paint, good interior, strong driver train, useful tasteful and proven mods, lift, tires, engine swaps, lockers, winch etc.: $8,000-$15,000
  • Survivor, all OEM, low miles, minimal rust if any, hard to find "barn cruiser", one to few owners with good records: $15,000-20,000
  • Full Resto-mod, lots of money spent, very clean, big power, modern parts, dream cruiser (there are several cruisers out there where the owner threw big $$$ at it but it is still a sub $10-20k rig): $20,000 on up.
  • Full concourse restoration, truly restored to exacting OEM specs, flawless, will spend more time polished in a garage than driven: $50k +
  • ICON from TLC: $200k ish or more I would suspect.
 

ducktapeguy

Adventurer
Top 2 things to look for

1. Rust
2. Everything else

I'd rather buy a empty rust free shell than a running rust bucket. Mechanical work is a lot cheaper than body work. Any bubble in the paint means the metal underneath is gone and will have to be cut out.

Also depends on what your final goal is. If you want a fully restored FJ40, the cheapest way to get it is to buy it. In the long run it's cheaper to spend as much as you can upfront to get the vehicle that you want, instead of thinking you'll be able to save money by doing it later. Parts for FJ40 are getting more expensive and more difficult to find, so missing parts can nickel and dime you to death. For example, expect to pay in the neighborhood of $2k for a missing hard top, and $500+ for a set of doors, and it seems every little part no matter how small is at least $50. Since you're in CA, 1975 is the best year (not just because I own one:)), because its the only year you get the 2F engine and 4 speed trans but it's still smog exempt. I'd still recommend finding one that has all the original equipment intact, because finding the smog equipment afterwards is almost impossible. My recommendation is to find one as close to stock as possible then at least you know it hasn't been hacked up as much.
 
Diamond plate is not necessarily a death sentence. I have seen plenty of vehicles with exterior cladding installed by someone who was just looking for "added protection", not to cover rust. Yes, rust can form in between the diamond plate and the body, but that can be detected by a good look at the inner panels. Also, where the vehicle lived has a lot to do with it. Here in CA, rust forming as a result of that added skin is not likely, and I have seen plenty of skins removed revealing clean, undisturbed paint.

Due diligence is the name of the game. Don't discount a perfectly good candidate because you assume there's rust. Look for it and decide for yourself.
 

Kiriesh

Adventurer
Thanks for the info guys. Sorry to keep asking questions but is there any information y'all didn't mention that would be important for an older style FJ40? Unfortunately the 1975 owner flaked out, but I'm in talks with an owner of a 1968 that looks to be almost entirely in good shape except for some mismatch paint, a small amount of rust on the bottom of the doors, and some minor dents in the tub. The end goal is to keep it mostly stock and restored with probably a moderate lift and larger tires (entirely for looks, this is a project/drive around town/cruise fire roads kind of vehicle, I have my tacoma for actual expo stuff).
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Thanks for the info guys. Sorry to keep asking questions but is there any information y'all didn't mention that would be important for an older style FJ40? Unfortunately the 1975 owner flaked out, but I'm in talks with an owner of a 1968 that looks to be almost entirely in good shape except for some mismatch paint, a small amount of rust on the bottom of the doors, and some minor dents in the tub. The end goal is to keep it mostly stock and restored with probably a moderate lift and larger tires (entirely for looks, this is a project/drive around town/cruise fire roads kind of vehicle, I have my tacoma for actual expo stuff).
Here's some specifics off the top of my head for the 1968 (assuming it is stock).
It will have the early F motor. Later model ('75+) 2F conversions are common as well as lots of small black chevy conversions
It will have drum brakes on both axles. These are notoriously bad at stopping unless the system has been maintained extremely well. A later disc brake conversion should be on your list of mods for better driveability
Chances are good that the front axle will need to be serviced. Look for leaks and sludge build up around the knuckles.
Unless the steering has been upgraded to power steering (Saginaw being the most common) the steering center arm bracket could be loose. Check for play in the steering. Slop could come from steering shaft, rag joint, tie rod ends, or the center arm. The center arm is located on the inside of the driverside frame horn in the corner against the first frame cross member in front of the grill.
If the transmission is stock it will be a 3-speed. Could even be a "3-on-the-tree". Later 4-speed (H41-H42) trans conversions are popular as are the much saught after H55F trans that has a lower 1st gear and is a 5-speed. This transmission (H55F) will require a "split-case" transfer case from a 60 series.
Stock gear ratio is 4.11
Check all suspension bushings. If you're planning to install a lift soon, worn suspension components wont be a big deal.
Definitely look for an OEM carburetor as they are the best. If it has a Holley or Weber, plan to start looking for a replacement OEM carb. The Weber could be lived with, but the Holley should be thrown in the weeds.
The '68 will have the upper lift hatch on the hardtop, and double swingout doors on the back of the tub. Side windows on the hardtop will be one-piece glass.
Rust issues are expected unless its had some level of restoration already. Most common areas for rust are the rear sill (underneath the rear doors). The rear quarter panels along the seam where the inner wheel well meets the outer body skin. The top of the rear wheel wells behind the rollbar brackets (if it has a rollbar). Rocker panels can be rusty. Front floor boards are another common rust area. If there is a mat or carpet in the rear, pull it up and check for rust underneath.
It should have a split hood with a chrome "splitter" down the middle of the front 1/3 of the hood.
Windshield wipers will be at the top of the windshield with the wiper motor inside the cab along the top of the windshield.
Front bib(grill) should have two "bullet" style turn signals in the lower corners of the bib. Small round turn signals on the front fenders. Round rear brake lights at the outer ends of the rear frame crossmember.
Look for a leaky brake booster, brake master, clutch slave.
Check for worn belts, and signs of a leaky water pump or coolant leaks.
Selectro locking hubs were common on earlier FJ40's. Warn locking hubs were a dealer option and are also common. Aisin, locking hubs are the best of the 3.
.
Rezarf's suggestions are good.
It should start right up. Might still be worth your time and expense to have a compression test done on the motor to get a basic idea of engine condition.
Put it in low range and run it through the gears and make sure it doesn't pop out of gear on decel.
Look for poor wiring. Could mean you're in for some headaches chasing electrical gremlins.
.
1975 was the transition year where several things started to get updated.
2F motor replaced the F
Disc brakes on front axle (not on every '75) were standard in 1976
Wipers moved to bottom of the windshield
Larger square turn signals on the front fenders and rectangular 3-way brakelights/turnsignals/reverse lights on the rear bumper.
One piece hood.
"fat" doors
Ambulance style rear doors
Flip out vent window on the sides of the hard top.
4-speed trans
.
There are some other minor changes but those are the main ones. Rust areas are very similar throughout the entire model range.
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Rust can scare a lot of people away from FJ40's, with good reason. It can be a lot of work to get rid of it. However, if you're not looking for a concourse level restoration, a tub reskin is not a terrible job to get rid of the rust. Most of the tub is straight panel with the exception of the radius'd rear corners. But there are several places that sell replacement body panels, or they can be made from scratch. I did a full reskin from scratch on my old FJ40. It's a lot of work but doable. We cut out the entire tub and floor and only kept the cowl/firewall and the doorframe and tub rail. The rest of the tub was done in new steel.
.
My before:

.
My original tub that was too far gone to salvage.

.
replacement tub with rust removed. Front floors still in place but they were also cut out and replaced.

.
After the reskin:
 

NMC_EXP

Explorer
A common problem with the 2F engine was manifold gasket leaks. Be prepared to have the manifold and/or head machined flat.

If it has the original suspension you ought to plan to retrofit with an OME or similar kit. When brand new the FJ40 suspension was a bone rattling brute. After 40 years of springs losing their arch it only gets worse.

Figure on replacing all the wear parts in the steering as well.

If it has not been desmogged best to proactively replace all 35 or so feet of vacuum tubing under the hood. Toyota used vacuum switching valves to operate the pollution controls. Vacuum leaks are hard to find and have a major negative effect on performance.

Unless you put enormous tires on it, power steering is not required. Average person can supply all the power needed for up to 33 x 10.50 x 15 tires which is plenty big anyway. One of the advantages of an FJ40 is its simplicity. Best to keep it that way.
 
The late 1960s FJ40s have better quality sheetmetal in the body tubs than the mid-1970s; the early 1980s 40s had the thinest, worse quality metal.

That said, upgrades that are worth doing (and don't detract from the value) are disc brakes, and power steering. Endless threads about both over on MUD.

Good luck,

Alan



Thanks for the info guys. Sorry to keep asking questions but is there any information y'all didn't mention that would be important for an older style FJ40? Unfortunately the 1975 owner flaked out, but I'm in talks with an owner of a 1968 that looks to be almost entirely in good shape except for some mismatch paint, a small amount of rust on the bottom of the doors, and some minor dents in the tub. The end goal is to keep it mostly stock and restored with probably a moderate lift and larger tires (entirely for looks, this is a project/drive around town/cruise fire roads kind of vehicle, I have my tacoma for actual expo stuff).
 

ducktapeguy

Adventurer
Aside from what everyone else has mentioned, the specific things to look out for on the older FJ40's would be availability of parts. It seems some parts that are more difficult to come by that are much easier to find for the 1970+ fj40's. The only things off the top of my head that I know of are the brake line fittings and jumpseats, but there are probably a lot more I don't know about. 75 was the major change to newer engine/transmission/body change, but there were a lot of other minor changes that could make finding replacement parts more of a hassle. If you're just planning on driving it around it's not as big of a deal as if you were trying to restore it all original.

Also, I don't think the vent window's came out until 77. The earlier roll bars interfered with the vent window latches because the radius of curvature changed.
 

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