budget harbor freight build/2014 wrangler sport

[captwoody]

I have been poaching ideas from here and tventuring.com for last 2 years . Right now have a 40" wide 48" long 36" tall main box with an enclosed 20" tall RTT Platform with removable front and rear hatches so I can carry kayaks, surfboards, SUP's and it has receiver on the rear to carry bikes

attached is my equipment build list-its fairly long but I am open to pointers for improvements

JEEP BUG OUT INVENTORY10 X 10 RAINFLY/TARP
20 FT BUNGEE
TRAUMA KIT
SMALL LANTERN/2 LUCI LANTERNS
FISHING BACKPACK WITH 2 POLES/BASIC TACKLE/HOOKS/LURES/WEIGHTS
2- HAMMOKS ONE WITH BUG NET
2-SLEEPING BAGS
2-BLANKETS
1322 AIR PISTOL/392 AIR RIFLE PLUS AMMO AND PACK
JUMP START BOX
DOWN VEST,SWEAT SHIRT,LIGHT COAT,RAIN COAT
BEACH BAG-TOWEL,2 TRUNKS,RASH GUARD,SWEAT PANTS IN NYLON PACKBAG
TOOLS- in rear storage
RED FIRE BAG
SNATCH BLOCK/GLOVES
ZIP TIES,TP,SPARE STOVE FUEL,SMALL SAW,SQUEGEE
YELLOW NYLON BACKPACK-4 16OZ WATER
BORREGO MAPS
SMITTYBUILT TIREMOUNT AWNING/GERBER RESCUE TOOL KIT
PUMP KIT/SIPHON HOSE/TIRE REPAIR KIT(PLUGS)
WEBBING/ROPE/BUNGEES/CARABEENERS/DUCT TAPE
EMERGENCY BLANKET/LED FLASHLIGHT/SMALL FIRST AID KIT
SMALL SOCKET SET/ELECTRICAL WIRE SPLICES
2-SETS SHOOTING/DESERT GOGGLES WITH SUNGLASSES
PPE KIT


BUG OUT PACK
35 L CAMO HYDRATION PACK
(SIDE POUCH) - MSR FUEL AND STOVE
3-LIGHTERS/1 WINDPROOF LIGHTER
SCHRADE MULTI TOOL/BUCK KNIFE
(LOWER POUCH)- SIERRA CUP
RED TRAIL MARKING TAPE/RIBBON
COMPASS
50 FT CAMO 3/8” ROPE
COMPACT CAMPING TP
WATER FILTER
FLINT/STEEL
PEN
CAMO FACE PAINT
(MAIN PACK)-COOK SET
SILVERWARE/NAPKINS/COFFEE/CONDIMENTS


FOOD LIST-ALL DEHYDRATED
BREAKFAST
15- Oatmeal packs
2-Breakfast Skillet
1-Biscuits and Gravy
1-Scrambled eggs
1-French Toast
LUNCH
1-BBQ beef Sandwiches
DINNER
1-Beef stroganoff
1-Macaroni and cheese
1-Chili mac with beef-2 serv
1-Rice and chicken
2-Sweet and Sour pork
1 Mac and cheese-3 serv
1- spaghetti and meatball-2 serv
1- chili mac-2 serv
1-beef stroganoff -2 serv
1-Lasagna
1-Beef stew

TRAILER INVENTORY
LOWER BOX
AGM BATTERY
SMALL EASY UP/LARGE AND SMALL ALUMINUM TABLES
OVEN
PROPANE HEATER
BOXES 1, 2, 3 SEE BELOW
BOX 1
2 BURNER STOVE
BBQ
PROPANE LINES AND BOTTLE PIPE STAND
CAST IRON GRIDDLE
BOX 2
PROPANE LANTERN-NEED SPARE MANTLES
PAPER TOWELS
PORTA POTTI TP
K-CUP COFFEE PRESS
BATTERY LANTERN
FIRST AID STUFF
DISH SOAP
SUN SCREEN
CHEESE/VEGGY GRATER

BOX 3
POTS AND PANS/FRYING, STOCK, SAUCE
PAPER PLATES AND BOWLS-INSIDE PANS
STRAINER FOR POT
FOIL
GALLON , QUART ZIP LOCKS
TOWELS/ PLASTIC SILVERWARE/NAPKINS
2 CUP MEASURING CUP/ MEASURING CUPS AND SPOONS
LG STRAINER SPOON/LG SPOON/ SPATULA/ TONGS
CAN OPENER/BOTTLE OPENER/ LIGHTER
FILLET KNIFE/STEAK KNIFE
SALT/PEPPER/ LEMON PEPPER
ITAILIAN SEASONING
GARLIC SALT/ SEASONING SALT
MINI SYRUP
CHILI POWDER
VEG OIL/ BUTTER FLAV NONSTICK SPRAY
UPPER BOX
SOLAR PANEL/2 MOVING BLANKETS
2 CHAIRS/PORTA POTTI
PROPANE CAMPFIRE/ SMALLPROPANE CYLINDER / NEED LG PROPANE CYL


STANDARD CAMPING PERISHABLES
MILK, BUTTER, SUGAR
MAYO, CATSUP, MUSTARD
PANCAKE MIX, SYRUP
BREAD, GOOBERS
SLICED CHEESE
EGGS, BACON
CHICKEN, STEAK
HOT DOGS AND BUNS
HAMBURGERS AND BUNS
ONION, LETTUCE, TOMATOES
FROZEN FOODS- MINI PIZZAS, BURRITOS, LASAGNA, CHICKEN NUGGETS

TRAILER BUILD
Update-12/7/14 REVISED- 3/20/17
• Build box- 4x4x2 box –Done
• Build box Lid-Done
• Add roof racks to lid-Done
• Add stove table to trailer-Done
• Propane bottle-5gallon-Location to be determined, tongue mount 1rst choice-Done
• T pipe, hoses, little buddy heater and Lantern-Done
• Stove and Oven- Done
• Propane Camp Fire-Done
• Bbq-Done
• 4 12 gallon folding lid totes-Done
• Water system start with tub and 2.5 gallon containers- then 10-15 gallons 12v pump with small sink
• Kitchen sink- Done
• Tent/Tentcot-Done/ remove install as needed
• Cots-Done/remove install as needed
• Pantry boxes-2-Done
• Folding chairs-Done
• Folding table-Done
• Easy up/Tarp-Done
• Porta potti-Done
• Mount rear receiver hitch-Done
• Cooler rack-need to beef up frame to mount-Done
• Smittybuilt Overlander roof top tent -Done
• Deep cell battery-DONE
• Solar panel-DONE
• 2-12volt Refrigerator/freezers- 50 QT INDEL B/18QT DOMETIC-DONE
• Inverter – needs to be mounted and wired
• LED Lighting-lanterns to start then 12v permanent system-Started(Lanterns)
• Small easy up-DONE

 

[rnArmy]

You asked.

Check out this thread; there is a table of contents on the first post to the comments below.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...ype-trailer-ultimate-build-up-thread-1180456/

Things I would suggest you do:

1. Upgrade the suspension. Those factory slipper springs are extremely stiff, and will beat-up your trailer's contents. A set of 26-28" long "eye-to-eye" springs (about 550lb +/- rating each) with a shackle at the back end will do wonders.

2. Slightly wider and stronger axle. Your current factory axle is about 47.5" hub-face to hub-face and is rated at about 1200lbs or so. Fine for those 12" rims and tires. 2000 - 2500lb axles (minimum) are easy to find. If you get one with a 52" hub-face to hub-face (with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern) you can easily fit 205/75/15" tires on 15x5" trailer rims. That will also give you more clearance under your trailer's axle than your clearance under the pumpkin of your current JK. And if the axle is mounted under the suggested springs above, you should have plenty of clearance with your current fender placement. If you go with 3500lb axles, you can get electric brakes (and opens up your bolt pattern options). And your trailer looks a little top-heavy (actually a lot top heavy); a wider axle would help. Like a 55 -56" wide hub-face to hub-face with 15x7" rims and 235/75/15" tires (common size and won't break the bank).

3. No matter what, make sure you have a spare tire for your trailer. You've got a lot of gear in/on the trailer. If you get a flat, do you really want to leave it on the side of the road or out in the woods while you look for a spare tire? Those factory 12" tires aren't the best quality.

4. Also carry a spare hub and bearing assembly for the trailer. What are the moving parts on one of these little trailers? Tires and hub/bearing assemblies. Again, if you break down on the side of the road (or trail) do you really want to leave your gear there while looking for spare parts? Mount an ammo can on the tongue if you have to, and carry basic repair stuff and needed tools in the ammo can.

5. Make sure your Jeep's jack will work on your trailer if you have to change a trailer tire.

6. Lengthen the tongue a bit and put a cooler tray up front. It will free up space inside the trailer box.

Impressive list of items.

Do you have an axe? Camp saw? Shovel? Tire plug kit? Maybe consider a small gas powered chainsaw?

You can do a lot with these little HF-type 4' trailers.

 

[captwoody]

Thanks for pointers I believe you are on tventuring to so some of your points are on wish list on future upgrades from compact camping concepts
1.Was going to do the bolt on spring conversion

2.At same time go to wider 3500lb axle and 5x5 hubs to match jeep pattern

3.Although I have 2 small spares I forgot to list plan is to get some 255/75/17 take offs for trailer wheels plus 1 spare same size giving me 2 spares I can use on jeep or trailer

4.I just missed the boat on this one will pick up one at harbor freight till I upgrade the I will carry 3500 spare

5.I just assumed on this one so I am in trouble and will have to investigate.

6.The end of trailer tongue is a 2" receiver so I was planning on adding a 36" receiver extension for better towing manners and easier backing. I just took off built in to build a more heavy duty version, but was waiting on extension purchase so it would clear jeep mounted cooler/firewood rack

I have all the items listed on your additional list except chainsaw, I was thinking electric saw since I have an 2000 watt inverter
You have given some valuable pointers I will work on- THANKS Woody

 

[rnArmy]

You're welcome, and good luck! I'm the one that started that HF trailer thread I linked for you above, but there have been a ton of folks who have contributed greatly to that thread (and who's ideas I have freely stolen for my build). If you can read through it (it is long), it might help you - there are lots of links, pictures, and part numbers and such of ways to do what you're wanting to do with your lil' trailer. I just enjoy what seeing what can be done with these little HF 4' trailers as a base for building. As you're demonstrating, you don't have to spend a ton of money to get a little adventure (or bug-out) trailer that'll do the job.

Two more posts/links, and things to strongly consider for your little trailer frame:

Epic fail: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...d-up-thread-1180456/index51.html#post15779253

Epic fix: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...d-up-thread-1180456/index59.html#post15883171

With heavy-duty use, these are weak spots on the trailer. On mine I actually ran 2" angle iron all the way to the rear cross member (pictures above).

 

[captwoody]

I followed your build on tventuring when I first started and followed a lot of your ideas ,but then got sidetracked when wife said she would rather me drive a new wrangler instead of my little Red 2001 tracker.So I lost 10 months off trailer build getting wrangler where I wanted. Now I have to get my trailer upgraded. Will post as upgrades occur, Tongue extension and cooler tray are next ,spring swap, then axle/tires. Upper box is all light stuff so not as top heavy as you might think, that's main reason why its enclosed so stuff wont blow out. Tried cargo net and stuff blew out when wind bowed out net.

 

[captwoody]

Bought 18" receiver extension makes tongue 12" longer need to improve trailer jack it is twisting tongue, it is mounted mickey mouse right now

 

[wagex]

if its the factory harbor freight tongue, go ahead and replace it that thing isnt made to hold much weight at all. after doing my harbor freight trailer build i regretted starting with the harbor freight platform, it seems like a decent deal, but in the end you end up replacing everything on the thing, only thing original on mine is the square frame and the springs, both of which i could have got for less than the $250 i invested in the original trailer even if i built the frame out of like 2x2x1/4 steel tubing.

you have any more pictures? im intrigued.

 

[captwoody]

I attached 2x2 angle iron to frame and tongue to gusset it for additional strength. but I know what you mean, but I look at it as a start I did not know how far I would go with this plus for me part of the fun is the interaction on the boards and the build itself. Like today went to scrap yard bought a 36" piece of 2x2 square tube stock and made a 2" ball trailer hitch extension ($7.00) for when on hiway. When offroad unplug and put pintle on for trails. longer tows better.Will work on pics tomorrow heading out to sons game

 

[captwoody]

gusseted tomgue

 

[captwoody]

pintle and extended 2"ball hitch and extension wires and chains

guessing 3500 lb axle with 5x5 hubs next on next payday if there's a little extra

 

[rnArmy]

I put three of these on my trailer to stabilize it; two in the back (for when I'm using the tent-cot RTT), and one on the tongue (to use as a tongue stand). Folds up underneath when not in use. Usually these little 4' HF-type trailers are so light (even when fully packed) you don't need a tongue stand with a wheel to move it around.

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack/Atwood/AT82301.html

 

[captwoody]

Thanks for linc, I think I need the longer ones but they were on same page . I need to measure. Right now I am using two car jack stands under rear corners then raising front jack to level and tighten

 

[rnArmy]

Thanks for linc, I think I need the longer ones but they were on same page . I need to measure. Right now I am using two car jack stands under rear corners then raising front jack to level and tighten[/QUOTE]



Yes; I must have accidently linked you the shorter ones. These are the ones I put on my trailer:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Atwood/AT82297.html

They extend to almost 22" long, but fold up to only 6.25" long and are rated at 1000lbs. They're relatively inexpensive, easy to mount, and so far I've been happy with mine.

 

[captwoody]

did you bolt or weld yours? I was planning on bolting mine. Also verified I have my factory jack and handles along with hi-lift I bolt on back

 

[rnArmy]

did you bolt or weld yours? I was planning on bolting mine. Also verified I have my factory jack and handles along with hi-lift I bolt on back

Mine are simply bolted on with two bolts (it comes with two obvious mounting holes for bolts). Due to the fact that the rear cross member sits a little higher than the outside pieces of channel (since it is sitting inside them), and since I bolted the stand in the corner (for one of the two bolts), I used a large washer as a spacer (see picture with arrow pointing at washer) to make up for the gap difference. It will make perfect sense (you'll know what I'm talking about) if you also decide to use the corner bolt as one of your two mounting bolts.

I've got two on the back, and one on the tongue (all the same size).

If you buy a two-pack, it comes with a foot-long crank rod (which actually is useful).

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack/Atwood/AT82298.html

Or the crank rod is sold separately for about $3.50 (you should have at least one).

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Atwood/80480.html