inexpensive 12v tire inflator

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
This is something to consider. If it plugs into the cig lighter as opposed to clipping onto the battery it because it is because it is designed draw less power and will run much slower.

I am sure I run my MV50 more than 12 times a year. The MV50 is surprisingly reliable for as inexpensive as it is. It isn't comparable to higher dollar compressor but if you aren't in a big hurry it does just fine.

Any compressor the plugs in has a very short duty cycle making it only capable of airing up one full size tire without resting, maybe = POS

The MV-50 is a great entry level compressor but it does has a 50% duty cycle 20min on/20min off and it will take all 20min to air up 4 - 35's from 15- 37psi. After you air up 4 tires the MV-50 its so hot you dont want to put it in the bag for the risk of fire. FWIW I have owned 3 MV-50 and still have 2.

Again I would recommend anyone who airs up more that 12 times a year to get something designed to run non stop for faster air up and long term reliability.

Today I use a PUMA and have for the last 9 years. It is designed to run non stop with 100's hours of run time logged.
 

MOguy

Explorer
Any compressor the plugs in has a very short duty cycle making it only capable of airing up one full size tire without resting, maybe = POS

The MV-50 is a great entry level compressor but it does has a 50% duty cycle 20min on/20min off and it will take all 20min to air up 4 - 35's from 15- 37psi. After you air up 4 tires the MV-50 its so hot you dont want to put it in the bag for the risk of fire. FWIW I have owned 3 MV-50 and still have 2.

Again I would recommend anyone who airs up more that 12 times a year to get something designed to run non stop for faster air up and long term reliability.

Today I use a PUMA and have for the last 9 years. It is designed to run non stop with 100's hours of run time logged.

My MV50 had alligator clips and didn't plug into the cigarette lighter.

I air up from about 10 psi to about 25 psi. I have 34 x 10.5 and had 35x12.5 in the past both onn15 inch rims. Mine is permanently mounted and hard wired. It does get hot. I have aired up multiple vehicles and mine hasn't shut off.

My first one lasted about 6 years and I shorted it out moving it. I have had the one I am using now for about 4 years.
 
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LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
My MV50 had alligator clips and didn't plug into the cigarette lighter.

I air up from about 10 psi to about 25 psi. I have 34 x 10.5 and had 35x12.5 in the past both onn15 inch rims. Mine is permanently mounted and hard wired. It does get hot. I have aired up multiple vehicles and mine hasn't shut off.

My first one lasted about 6 years and I shorted it out moving it. I have had the one I am using now for about 4 years.

No MV-50/Mf-1050 have ever plugged into a outlet

Sure you can run it past the manufactures recommended duty cycle but there is a reason they put a duty cycle on it.

Back to the OP question - MV-50 is what you want but it does have limits set forth by the manufacture you should understand for long term reliability.

One other note you should always have your vehicle running when airing up to increase the compressor output and lower the power draw.
 

RoyJ

Adventurer
The MV50 is actually better designed than its big brother, MV90. The MV90 has a fake cooling fin that doesn't even touch the cylinder head, while the MV50's fin is part of the head - cooler running.

If you really want to extend the duty cycle / life of the little compressor, mount a high rpm 80mm 12V computer fan (like a 5000+rpm Delta) to the head. I'd hook up a separate switch for the fan so it continues to cool as you switch from tire to tire.

Also note the factory duty cycle is usually for 90 - 100 psi operation. If you're only pumping up tires ~30 psi, the duty cycle is longer. With the fan mod, I bet it'll air up at least 2 trucks w/ 33"s.
 

justrom

Adventurer
I started with a 12v "150 PSI" compressor from Harbor Freight. It had clips for the battery and a fairly long coiled hose. Early on it cooked the thermal safety switch, even when it cooled off, it wouldn't reset. I bypassed that and it lasted for several years of once a month weekend trips. Eventually it melted the fuse socket, I managed to push the fuse in well enough to make contact and it worked well enough to inflate the tires to get home.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12volt-150-psi-compact-air-compressor-69285.html

For a 2 month trip to Alaska I bought a Viair 88. Combined with a Safety Seal plug kit, I felt good about fixing most tire issues on the road. We used the Viair several times a week during the trip and it performed very well. It isn't super fast and it gets hot, but I'm running 32" tires, so I was never hampered by the 25 min duty cycle. I did replace the screw on attachment (connection to the valve stem) with a FREE FLOW clip on model from Amazon. It can be a little touchy about clipping it on all the way, but overall it worked well to make the tire-compressor connection a little quicker.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XU7IQYM?psc=1
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Another thing, that Ive mentioned before in previous threads is that the factory wiring for the MV50 is a undersized.

Ive rewired a few using 10G wire throughout, and it has proven to make the unit run more efficiently.


In theory, the larger wire size reduces any voltage drop between the battery clamps and the motor while running, which should reduce the amperage draw.

All the while allowing the cylinder to run at a higher RPM, which increases output, and reduces the amount of time it takes to fill tires.


Makes sense right?

Or am I just nuts?:)
 

RoyJ

Adventurer
Makes sense right?

Or am I just nuts?:)

I do the same with my cheap compressors, but I'm even cheaper - I simply parallel another run of 14g to the cheap factory 14g, making it a 11g for the price of one 14g :D

Haven't had to with my new 440p. With my Puma, I simply bought some cheap 8g jumper cables, cut off one set of clamps, and soldered it onto the motor / pressure switch.
 

MOguy

Explorer
Another thing, that Ive mentioned before in previous threads is that the factory wiring for the MV50 is a undersized.

Ive rewired a few using 10G wire throughout, and it has proven to make the unit run more efficiently.


In theory, the larger wire size reduces any voltage drop between the battery clamps and the motor while running, which should reduce the amperage draw.

All the while allowing the cylinder to run at a higher RPM, which increases output, and reduces the amount of time it takes to fill tires.


Makes sense right?

Or am I just nuts?:)

When I hard wired mine I used thicker wire.
 

chasespeed

Explorer
Another thing, that Ive mentioned before in previous threads is that the factory wiring for the MV50 is a undersized.

Ive rewired a few using 10G wire throughout, and it has proven to make the unit run more efficiently.


In theory, the larger wire size reduces any voltage drop between the battery clamps and the motor while running, which should reduce the amperage draw.

All the while allowing the cylinder to run at a higher RPM, which increases output, and reduces the amount of time it takes to fill tires.


Makes sense right?

Or am I just nuts?:)

Not nuts at all.
Voltage drop per foot, is easily calculated. Larger wire means less drop per foot, which equates to more voltage at load, and less amp draw, meaning a cooler running motor, and cooler wiring.

Chase
 

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
I started with a 12v "150 PSI" compressor from Harbor Freight. It had clips for the battery and a fairly long coiled hose. Early on it cooked the thermal safety switch, even when it cooled off, it wouldn't reset. I bypassed that and it lasted for several years of once a month weekend trips. Eventually it melted the fuse socket, I managed to push the fuse in well enough to make contact and it worked well enough to inflate the tires to get home.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12volt-150-psi-compact-air-compressor-69285.html
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I had one of those things years ago, they may put out 150 psi (never needed that much pressure so cannot confirm), but only a thimble-full at a time, takes half an hour to fill one tire. The MV-50 puts out way more volume; I have a couple of them from back in the day when Checker blew them out for $25 apiece. I only felt a need to upgrade after I went to 35s, but I could have lived with the MV-50 even then.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Voltage drop per foot, is easily calculated. Larger wire means less drop per foot, which equates to more voltage at load, and less amp draw, meaning a cooler running motor, and cooler wiring.
Standard practice for compressors is to run longer hose rather than longer wires. There is no voltage drop in an air hose. My OBA is hard mounted near the battery, and I carry a 25-foot polyurethane 1/4" hose in back. It will reach all four tires with ease, and will reach other trucks if required.

I also have a couple of the small Husky 12V compressor/inflators from Home Depot that I carry in other vehicles. They are not fast, but effective, and a very good value if you get them on sale (usually real cheap on Black Friday). I always have a couple of cans of aerosol inflator/sealer in each truck as a backup. Even if your compressor fails, two cans can keep you rolling in emergencies.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
There is no mention of hose, for a reason.

You are correct with regards to hoses and hose lengths, but this is about the original wiring.

The wiring upgrade is just that, a wiring upgrade. No lengthening needed or required.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
There is no mention of hose, for a reason.

You are correct with regards to hoses and hose lengths, but this is about the original wiring.

The wiring upgrade is just that, a wiring upgrade. No lengthening needed or required.

True, but lots of the inexpensive compressors/inflators come with long wires and short hoses, so that you have to move the compressor from tire to tire. If I'm going to modify one of those, I'd rather just shorten the factory wires and lengthen the hose.
 

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