"Wynona" - 2000 Chevrolet Express

One other thing to add for now as it is something I didn't see anyone else here mentioning. I do know that Monroe shocks are no Bilstein's but Monroe has an offering that others don't. I have used them on a couple different vehicles and have no complaints. The load leveler shock is a bolt on shock with a built in coilover to help support a little extra weight. The addition of the coilover does provide a bit of a lift on it's own and will help if your stock leafs are sagging a bit. The part number for stock height is MON 58606 and the next size longer is MON 58600. I just put the longer ones on the rear of mine with a 4" block and they were a direct bolt on with the new taller blocks. I would eventually like to do the 2500 Suburban spring swap but for now these seem to work well. According to Oreilly Automotive website they will fit 96-2014 half ton Express and Savana vans including the AWD vans.
 
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workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
Monroe coilover helper shocks for van or truck; thumbs up!

One other thing to add for now as it is something I didn't see anyone else here mentioning. I do know that Monroe shocks are no Bilstein's but Monroe has an offering that others don't. I have used them on a couple different vehicles and have no complaints. The load leveler shock is a bolt on shock with a built in coilover to help support a little extra weight. With the addition of the coilover it does provide a bit of a lift on it's own and will help if your stock leafs are sagging a bit....
I don't have a van, unless you count my'09 HHR Panel as one, but I've used the Monroe coilovers on my last three trucks. I was sorta the informal logistics guy for my drag racing club, hauling two generators, two grades of racing gas, regular gas, multiple jacks and jackstands, tools, supplies, and a minibike to every race, while towing my Chevelle on a heavy implement trailer-turned-car hauling trailer. My '69 C10 and the '75 C-10 had good power, but the rear springs were sagging, before I added the Monroes (and also add-a-leafs on the '75, and rear swaybars on both). That did the trick, but when my (then) faithful '86 S-10 extended cab daily driver (for 18 years) got T-boned, I replaced it with a '04 Silverado 2500HD WT, that had 30k miles on it. It had been a parts hauler for a Hummer dealership. I started using it to haul to races, and sold off the other two trucks. After four years, and increasingly larger loads being hauled, I replaced the Gas-Magnums on the rear with the Monroe coilovers, and that raised the rear up an inch, and made the heavy loads insignificant (a beefed 4L80E and 4.10 gears helped a little, too). I sorta miss hauling those heavy loads, now, since I only tow my little squareback TD (< 2000 lbs) with 1/2 ton or so in the bed (supplemental gear), and it never even knows the trailer is there. I recommend the Monroe coilover helper shocks heartily!:26_7_2:
 
I received a pm question about how I did my shore power, after replying I decided I would share how I did mine in case it could help someone else.

First and foremost, I am not an electrician and may catch some flack about my simplified methods, but it has been 100% trouble free for going on four years.



The first thing I bought was this

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-...=1492180848&sr=8-1&keywords=shore+power+inlet

As you can see, it makes things super simple. Next in line is one of these

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shock-Bust...oor-Extension-Cord-with-GFCI-Circuit/50394552

From there, I simply ran a few extension cord/splitters in varying lengths


I made sure everything was zip tied up and out of the way so things would stay plugged in tight and I don't snag a cord when moving stuff around under the bed. I have a couple power strips I use as well and make sure I think about what is turned on before turning on another device that pulls a heavy amp load. ie If I'm running the roof a/c or a heater, I'll will turn it off before I cook something in the microwave. :coffeedrink: Keep in mind if you use this method, the inlet I listed above is only rated at 13amps.

Scott
 
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Few more additions.

Bug deflector and a 30" Curved LED light bar installed on the front. Switched 3" rear lift blocks for 4" to level it out better when loaded.

What I really wanted was the full Aluminess roof rack and the ability to get up on my van as an observation deck. But the more I thought about it and the price of it I decided it wasn't really in my budget. I also decided I wanted more securable storage for toys and gear so I opted for ladder racks and a large shell cargo carrier. I used someone's idea of an aluminum motorcycle loading ramp as a standing platform. Drivers side Aluminess ladder to get up on top.

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Such a good looking van.

Thanks I appreciate it. I've been working on a solar install that should be completed this weekend. I've got the battery and charge controller wired up. Just waiting on the panel which should be delivered tomorrow. I'll get some pictures in the next couple days.
 
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Making electricity!! Not much but it should fulfill my needs. 70 watt narrow panel. I ended up adding a 4th ladder rack for mounting everything easily.

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Corneilius

Adventurer
This van keeps getting cooler! What are you running off the panel? Im in the market but will need an odd shaped one because of my high top. That narrow one might be the ticket.
 
This van keeps getting cooler! What are you running off the panel? Im in the market but will need an odd shaped one because of my high top. That narrow one might be the ticket.

Thanks! As of now I have a single Optima Yellowtop house battery to keep topped off. I have a small 200 watt inverter and can run my 24" tv, iPhone charger, led rope lighting, and a small fan. I've got a Honda 2000 watt generator for daytime use or if I am running my roof A/C. I mainly wanted the battery power for late evening tv/movie watching just before bed and running the fan overnight so I don't have to run the generator all night long.

Here's the specs on the panel I got. It's the only one I could find that would fit where I wanted to put it.

https://www.solar-electric.com/solarland-slp070-12m-70-watt-12-volt-solar-panel.html
 
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Had a great weekend with Wynona. Little bit of this on Friday and Saturday

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On Sunday I came up with a cheap solution to another problem I was having. I wanted to be able at times to carry my dual sport and my bicycle and pull a trailer. I had originally bought the roof cargo carrier with the thought of being able to carry my bicycle in it. It will fit but I have to remove both wheels and it takes up all usable space leaving little to no room for anything else. With this solution I can carry both bikes on the back and leave the cargo carrier for just the front bicycle wheel along with all my riding gear and helmets. I already had the Yakima fork mount bracket and the bolt spacing turned out the be the exact same as the upper handlebar clamp on my Yamaha. I can leave the fork mount bracket on my Yamaha permanently and just remove the skewer when not in use. A single bungee for the rear tire and it is rock solid for transport.

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I'm working on a generator tray this weekend so I don't have to unload my bike to get the generator out from under the bed. Plus opens up more under bed storage. Here's a peek of whats going on. These are the main support pieces and it will have an angle iron and expanded metal tray and eventually an aluminum doghouse style cover that will lift off. It will keep the generator locked and out of site when not in use.

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Where it will sit between back of van and bike. It's a tight fit but should work.

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